BakemonoRicer

yes we are aiming for a peripheral port idle….basically this motor is all top end and will be spit monster flames dose, thx for the support, we all know he is going to get lunched by the VVL professor, I have no doubt about it…. He is doing a mid sized build where as mine is an all-out Mack daddy build Not only that I’ll bring cash to this gunfight, this Nagoya street drag special is gonna have serious pull

Just got some photos of the head now that it has been given the full 12,000rpm pamper package might need to add another fuel rail as this puppy is gonna drink some juice Copper valve seats , custom valves and peripheral ported intakes/exhaust (yes I know it’s not a rotor but I’m just giving everyone an idea of how full tilt the portjob is) basically the ports are that big you would think a Guinea pig could fit in there With an EFR9280 I think I would have no trouble wiping the floor with R32-25T’s 6870 billet block GTR

Dose, I can’t give away those secrets, but what I can say is no one has caught up to my fuel system yet…. people have tried to replicate but failed…

Every micron is critical when you are building a 2.2L nascar engine for 10,500rpm ….. that’s what you can do when you future proof a fuel system and don’t cut corners

I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener??? Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.

Precisions are made in China junk have fun topping up the engine oil with how much oil they spew out

Nismo BCNR33 400R advertised for sale by Harlow Jap Autos for 2.8 Million AUD. As expected we are approaching Ferrari F40 money on many of these cars which was to be expected. The Skyline is just a poster icon for the 90's generation. Obviously, us people born in the 90's or of course...the Gran Turismo generation, are hugely responsible for surging the values especially with many becoming rich through YouTube, Crypto, et al. Naturally, the older generation now show appreciation for the cars after realising "what they had", creating huge worldwide demand. https://www.harlow-jap-autos.co.uk/stockcode/hja400r40 I still stick to my comments that we will see BCNR33's at the 300k mark, probably more, sooner than everyone expects...the BNR34 will be unaffordable to most and will drag the value of the BCNR33 up as a result.

Supercar buyers have the money to pay for supercar mods. Some people live life with a "money is no object" approach and that's the reality for people buying Skylines now

Yes I was on the money that's for sure yet no one believed it. Predicting by 2024/25 that prices will be close to 300k for an R33 GTR V Spec in mint condition. I think realistically you are looking between 500-700k for an R34 GTR Vspec I/II in 2024/5.

In all fairness here brett has 100% made the right choice the fastest RB has open chambers as does the fastest circuit GTR (built by PMC)

Heres a thread showing the correct install orientation https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/how-to-fit-aftermarket-steering-wheel-hkb-boss-kit-tutorial.248241/

You shouldn't need to use a steering wheel puller. You only need to undo the middle nut & it should slide off. Also, it looks like its been installed incorrectly.

I guess it’s wait & see. I think 430kw plus a sequential is the same as a 530kw h pattern car. CD009 6 speed would of been ideal but don’t fancy belting the transmission tunnel or having the transmission hang below chassis rails. Im planning for mine to be an all rounder , mainly street with a thorough dash of circuit and occaisonal roll racing.

I think it'll be a very interesting comparison between our motors... my aim is around the 435rwkw with bulldog response. Have you decided on turbo yet? I'll be running a reinforced DET timing chain as there is some stories floating around of the P12 timing chain snapping. You can actually buy a VCT conversion front cover for the SR20VE motor now, meaning you'd have both VCT and VVL. This really would bring an SR into V8 response territory. I'd imagine custom cams would be needed & then the whole issue as to whether VCT would start rattling led me to abandoning the idea.

That was the reason for buying the X-Trail GT head, the cams. They have aggressive lift, and I wanted to avoid going big Kelford cams due to potential loss of response.