BakemonoRicer

Meh....the reality is that the car must have fallen short of expectations Really not sure how a full tune can drag out for 2 years... so claims that the build was f1 spec, just musn't show on the dyno graphs there, i said it. /thread.

I haz shiney now.... no stealth black in this build. CNC billet flange, 45mm v-band, T3 single scroll steampipe goodness.... Expecting full boost at ~3400rpm, gonna pull like a freight train to 7500rpm (yes....I'll be bumping up the rev limit)

You can smack the knuckle with a lump hammer to dislodge the ball joint also.... thats the quickest way, and it doesnt do any damage

Ryno, I was referring to the rubber bush mounts. The subframe itself and chassis are all good.

Whilst I don't have plans to forge the motor yet....I'm at the point where I realise I'll be going fairly nuts with the build, so I figure I'll 'do it once & do it right'. I got to work on Sunday fitting up the massive Trust 16 row oil cooler & filter relocation kit.....I spent a lot of time tinkering around to get it mounted perfectly. I really like how it sits behind the intercooler, I think its much safer than being in front of the drivers wheel and also much easier to route the lines & filter relocation. Here is a picture of the kit laid out on the ground, its bloody good quality gear... It's a good idea to fit up all the brackets to the core first before placing it in position and the horn cable needs to be nipped up with a ziptie. For the relocation filter block, I lubricated all the o-rings with engine oil & then torqued them lightly (~15NM). I'm mindful its an alloy block so I'd rather not over-torque them... I cleaned up some surface rust from the old washer bottle bracket & then hit the area with some VHT chassis black paint. I trimmed a small piece of the washer bottle & relocated it, then mounted the filter relocation block....looks very neat !! After that I'd unfortunately ran out of time...so I'll keep everyone posted as progress continues....

The next step of the process was to remove the alternator. You’ll notice I’ve taken it out with the bracket that’s fixed to the engine block...because it's easier. The reason I’ve removed the alternator is so I could access the sandwich block – it’s torqued tight so I don’t recommend using a handheld allen key - I used a ratchet with a socketed allen key which worked nicely. It'll get replaced with a Tomei N2 Oil Block.... Kept at it & way past midnight I'd removed the front dump, exhaust manifold & stock turbo. Two of the nuts (No. 7 & 8 ) were damn near seized on the manifold….took a good half hour to crack them off.

The M109 is king, it's a shame they discontinued it for the 34!! As for the AD08R's, yes really like them... Finally had some free time this weekend, & I decided the first thing I’d is work on the car and install the Nismo 740cc injectors. Spent 22 hours hours on the S15 over the weekend....was absolutely buggered by the end of it! I started off at the inlet plenum disconnecting all the hoses, earths, connectors & throttle cable. After this was done, I unbolted the throttle body & inlet plenum in the workshop manual recommended sequence. Hoses were labelled & nuts/bolts were placed in labelled ziplock bags. I find this always makes it easier when putting things back together. Here is a picture of the stock injectors prior to removal. I used fine grade oil around the perimeter of each to loosen them up, and then levered them out of the fuel rail (from the two small slots in the injector). I cleaned the fuel tube very meticulously and laid out the injector caps/screws as per original. Even though I won’t be seeing the injectors, the red is a much nicer colour lol. I slipped the o-rings on & lightly lubricated them with engine oil, put them in the fuel tube, then torqued them down with the injector caps. I figured I’d replace the IACV gasket seeing as the plenum is off as well…

pm sent mate

Knowing how much this is all worth I think it'd be a fantastic buy for someone

thanks mate pads will also fit r33gtst/r32gtr non vspec/z32

That looks bloody fantastic....

+1 for broken subframe mounts.

recommendations for dry cell battery? Want to track the car quite a bit, so needs to be something decent. Sard makes a nice battery box so knowing which battery will help with size selection: Option 1 battery box W300×H190×D275 Option 2 battery box - W370×H250×D275 car is an s15 silvia, cheers for the help.

30k really is too expensive for a 20 year old car.... Most people will buy one not knowing just how much it costs to get it to decent / reliable condition.

I took off the Tomei Oil Pan and reinstalled it to get a better seal. It helped having the Nismo mounts as there's decent clearance between the crossmember & flange now. New valve cover gasket needed... The control arms were looking fairly tired, removed the split pin then a couple whacks to the knuckle with the lump hammer was enough to dislodge the ball joints. I've thrown on the new set of Nismo LCA's...will tighten them once I get everything else installed & I have full fluids in the car. Will prop the car up on some pavers when I do this. Nismo Power Brace, nice bit of gear for the Silvia's. Belts were in pretty bad condition with all of them showing cracks as per pic below. Had a mishap... I'd wound most of the crank bolt out to get ready to pull off the harmonic balancer, went away to get the tool to remove it, got started & midway thought hmm this is a bit tight...nek minnit broken harmonic balancer, Turns out the old man thought it'd be a good idea to wind half the crank bolt back into the engine. I rung around & couldn't source a replacement harmonic balancer anywhere in Australia (despite a few places advertising them as 'in stock') so I won't be able to get my hands on one till the new year. Will probably steer clear of an OEM item & go for a Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket. I've fitted up the ARC M073 crossflow intercooler, will obviously tinker with it a bit more to get it positioned really nice. The thing is a work of art & for a long time I was reluctant to even take it out of its packaging. It's discontinued now and I'm pretty sure I'm the only S15 guy in Australia who has one. Will get started on the pipework tomorrow. Unlike a GTR there's a bit of body processing required to fit it up...so if you're afraid of using a grinder / holesaw - better off using a turnflow style kit or sticking with the side mount.

~bump

Off work until the 4th, so I've taken the opportunity to get cracking on the GT car.... I started off completely flushing the cooling system with distilled water. All the coolant/discharge was very clean with no contamination... When I started removing the radiator, it was missing the air guides so I suspect it's been replaced at some point in the past. It was actually in pretty good condition aside from being caked with leaves etc. I got to have a closer look at the front-end and it's original, pretty damn rare for an S15. Next up for install is the HKS drive belts and for the cooling system upgrade... I've got a Sunline Racing Radiator Breather Tank, SARD radiator hoses, and I'm tossing up whether to throw on the ARC radiator (36mm thick) or the SARD radiator (49mm thick). Thoughts?

word on the street is that borg warner have started making these turbos with investment cast housings again

Brand new top secret hood latches for sale....obviously very sought after I'm selling my carbon bonnet so I no longer have any use for them. $200

please set limiter at 10,000rpm

would you be interested in selling a recaro sp-g bucket seat separately???

the very blurry reflection on the driver rear quarter would make me a bit anxious.

cool guide for people looking to reduce it. Seems to be common...I have an ORC twin in my S15. The bite is very high up in the pedal also but im used to it now. Release...release...few quick blips of the throttle and slip it. quite nice when shifting gears quickly also.

I have been in both and the R32 GTR feels & sounds a lot more special. my cousin had built one with built motor & upgraded twins in 2004-2005 and I was completely blown away when he took me for a drive in it. it feels special whereas the evo doesn't. the evo is a bit more sterile....

Shuto Kousoku Max 1996 Dual also a good movie.