BakemonoRicer

It'd be worth going straight for 10 mins, turning into Waterfall as it's nice & twisty then linking onto the Nasho!

Well - 30cm is what it feels like when the car jolts over one, lol. Stiff suspension doesn't ride nicely over bumps.

driving through the city is a pain in the ass due to all the damn sewer/service pits which sit about 30cm below finished road surface.

I bought an S15 as I couldn't afford a GT-R at the time. It's really fun to drive & hasn't really missed a beat the whole time I've owned it. I haven't touched the engine/turbo though, so the car is no where near as wild as it can be. I'm getting closer & closer to affording an R33 GT-R, and really itching for the screaming howl of an inline 6 at 9000rpm. Unfortunately I think I'd need to spend stupid money on it to get the car to live up to its halo. I think a GTR would be pretty underwhelming in stock or mildly modified form.

I'm really liking the centre caps Brett!

Wow, that S13 looks damn amazing. Can't wait to hear the story behind it!!

wonder what ever happened to this build.... was super keen to see results but Im assuming its all fell short?? there aren't many high HP RB26 builds that seem to be able to successfully run a MoTec.

Fantastic pictures Eric!!

Had an absolute blast at track day.....was fair sh*tting bricks in the first couple of sessions. Really happy that I improved throughout the day and ended up with a time I was happy with. Plenty of good chit chat & the day was really well organised!!!!

Which car would you buy and why? Can anyone provide a comparison of these vehicles? I'd be interested in hearing from people who have driven well-tuned examples of both.....

Remsa High Performance Front Brake Pads Brand New- $70. RRP is $95. Suits mountain runs & occaisonal track. I use a full circuit spec pad now so I have no use for these. 3 inch double braided staino flex piece. $50. Will prevent the all to common problem of cracking the front pipe. Circuit Sports Solid Poly Engine/Gearbox Mount Set. Minimal Use. Suits any S chassis SR20. $130 (bought for $225).

Remsa High Performance Front Brake Pads Brand New- $70. RRP is $95. Suits mountain runs & occaisonal track. I use a full circuit spec pad now so I have no use for these. 3 inch double braided staino flex piece. $50. Will prevent the all to common problem of cracking the front pipe. Circuit Sports Solid Poly Engine/Gearbox Mount Set. Minimal Use. Suits any S chassis SR20. $130 (bought for $225).

The car really is starting to look drastically different to when I first bought it. The other weekend, resprayed the bootlid hinges and fitted up the Sunline Racing Carbon Bootlid - the thing is insanely light so I had to remove one of the tensioners for the boot release. . Decided I'd do a shakedown with the new mods - so I took the car to Wakefield for the NSCC trackday on the 30th. I stayed the night before with a bunch of mates and then went out to have a crack at setting a decent time. In terms of pace, I ended up two seconds slower than a Lotus Elise. The car was on rails in the first session (untimed) and I was very confident in the car. For the second session, I made the mistake of dropping the tyre pressure from 36psi to 33psi. The car did not handle near as well as it just didn't seem to want to turn in and was a lot more savage at the limit. This didn't stop me from pushing it flat out and I netted a 1.15.09.....and soon after spun out (twice). Once at the fish hook when my drivers rear dropped off the track, and once when I mashed the throttle too early at the fish hook after having just came off the brakes. Got a little graze on the lip of the TE37SL from that one. During the second session - I started noticing some pretty severe shudder through the steering wheel as I was braking. I did notice the rotors were blue when I came off the track so I assume the DBA 4000's must have overheated & warped. With each session, the shudder got worse, particularly as the brakes got hotter. I was pushing harder & harder yet my times didn't get quicker with the closest being a 1.16. I guess not everything goes smoothly every time you go to a track day lol. My mate is organising to send me some GoPro footage of the 1.16 lap, so I'll keep everyone posted.

I'll ask them about my clutch issue which has been bugging me... See everyone tomorrow. Cheers

Very clean well set-up example of an MX-5. I can personally vouch for this car as I have seen it in person.

Got the car back in action for now, turns out I had two broken subframe mounts. All the gear for the rear end is now fitted and the car feels fantastic. Slight increase in noise with the solid diff bushes - but no issue as I don't mind the sound. Teed up Nelson to roll the rear guards as it was scrub city with the new rims. No issues with the fronts so they stayed factory spec. Really wouldn't mind seeing if I could make Z-Tune lip arches work with the rear guards... Been getting out & about as much as possible to enjoy the car, as usually it doesn't take long for it to end up sitting in the garage for months haha.

Done deal Mick Yeah phew....went with the AD08R's in 235/40/17

So this is happening: Been noticing a fair bit of movement from the rear end - it's an old car so obviously there's quite a bit of wear & tear with the bushes etc. Now beefing up the rear end which should take a lot of lash out the drivetrain, though I've avoided solid subframe bushes after spending hours looking into the topic. The rear knuckles were also looking a bit tired.... I have a spare set laying around which have bugger all use so it's likely those will get swapped in. Anyway, got all the parts sorted and enlisted my trusty mechanic to do the work. -Yanack Racing Solid Diff Bushes -Nismo Subframe Bushes -Ikeya Formula Rear Knuckle Solid Bushes -Nismo Rear Lower Control Arms -350Z Rear Hub seals (interchangeable with the S15 item and a far superior design). After the rear end gets done, the car will end up back in the garage while I save some coin for the front end. Bonus Pic: Nismo LCA's

I think Piggaz is pulling our leg..... There's no way he'd pull the pin on this LOL but then again... 'most people give up just before the finish line'

Wait what? You're returning the car to stock?

Awesome, this looks like a good one!!!

After a few google searches it seems the 7064 (1.05 ext gate) has the sand cast housing now. Kinda disapointing :(/// Investment cast 7670 vs Sand-cast 7670

Installed a brand new BNR34 Vspec II Nur pedal setup. Makes heel & toe downshifting super easy. The brake and clutch pad should be heated up before even attempting to fit them - I used some hot water followed by a hair dryer. It'll still take a bit of time & patience to get them on. For the accelerator, I removed the existing assembly and replaced it with a 200SX GT accelerator arm & the NUR pedal pad. When removing the existing arm, you'll need to push a plastic bush out near the cable linkage which is easy enough - just make sure you push on the end closest to the firewall. Here is a pic of the new setup.

Geoff, Does the EFR7064 EWG with A/R 1.05 still retain the Investment cast housing..... Or does it get the sand cast housing like the internal wastegate version?

Hmm, did the wheels actually get stolen off the car e.g. was the car left sitting on bricks?