BakemonoRicer

Good stuff with the weight shedding surgery, but I strongly disagree with the electric motor - way to ruin the spirit of the GT-R.

Scholl concepts is the best. I personally use this compound / polish and have gotten show quality results. Talk to Antonio from waxit and he will point you in the right direction.

Yanack Racing make unreal diff bushes. I have these for the S15. Quality is high end & they're chromoly. Made in Japan

Currently have an ORC 559 Twin Plate Clutch Installed....but need some advice in terms of adjusting it. The OEM Service Manual suggests a clutch pedal height of 190mm, but at the moment my pedal is quite a bit lower than this at approx. 160mm so that the 'engagement point' is lower. My technique each time I push/release the clutch pedal needs to be very precise otherwise I get a jerky shift etc. I'm finding it quite difficult to shift from 2nd to 3rd, as I seem to be getting a thud/thump noise occurring. Would the lower pedal height be causing too much preload on the release bearing? Or maybe causing engagement to be 'harsher'? Any advice appreciated....thank you.

what car are you importing Terry

Great day.... had an absolute blast on the track. Lots of cool cars in attendance. Only managed a 1.12 but still felt like I was fair hauling lol. Thanks heaps to the organisers on the day such as Dave & Nick. Felt terrible for the bloke who lost his pride & joy... he's owned that car for a fairly long time. Hope he is OK Anyway here are a few pics from the day...

Really nice trophies etc!!

Nice Luke. I'll delete boot carpet/floor mats etc tomorrow when I arrive. Considering rear seat removal as well.

I think I will be asking for a passenger session at the track day in your car lol. The Skyline GT-R is legend. The history of it is what creates much of its mystique. Nothing can really match that. Admittedly, they do need to be heavily modified to live up to their reputation. The R35 by comparison....well, I just don't think it'd provide 'that feeling'. Its lacking the nostalgia of the earlier Skylines. I'm currently working two jobs now, in an effort to save up for a BCNR33 V-Spec 97/98 in Black. Finding this car in Grade 4.5 condition is very rare....so may take a while to find and it looks like I'd have to pay around $35,000 to net one. Very hard to resist spending on the S15 though lol. Would ideally buy the R33 as an already fully built monster. 550-700ps spec would be the sweet spot.

Dnt using washing detergent lol... Just general dishwashing liquid... its not harmful to the paint whatsoever just great at stripping contaminants. plenty of info about it on detailing websites such as autogeek.

my car came back from a workshop in Parramatta with what I think was fine metal dust over it. could feel it when I ran the back of my hand along the panel. I do recall peoples rotors getting machined right near the hoist etc. couple of washes was enough to get it off as I had a good sealant applied over the car.

Use dishwash liquid. very aggressive wash soap. should remove majority of contaminants. all purpose cleaner is good for underbody etc. then clay for the final cleanse of the surface.

Struggling to contain my excitement lol. After lunch I'll start loading up the car. Checklist Jerry Cans (30L BP 98) Cams L2S Licence SAU entry ticket HKS Damper Adjustors Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner Assorted basic tools Helmet Hydraulic jack and stands.

Meanwhile I'll be flat on it and causing motion blur. It'll be happening at the trackday... Though I can see this happening if I get to take a shot at an R35 GTR....

Can't wait for the S-chassis army to be out in full force... Gave the car a wash, then waxed it up with some carnauba. Fitted underbody splash tray, bolted the fire extinguisher to the rear seat bracket (had to shave down the washer), and also fitted a nut onto one of the turbo/dump studs, seeing as it must of rattled off back when I had the solid mounts. Also fitted a couple interior trimmings by Superior Auto. Anyway, have taken the car for its second shakedown through Old Pac...it's pretty much good to go for the trackday now . The HC + pads are amazing.... will be VERY late on the brakes.

Did anyone record the talk from MoTec?

Great to see a build thread for this. Once my car is fixed will need to battle you at wakefield =P

Finally got around to installing the replacement oil pan that Tomei sent out to me. Have had very little time for the car as have been working 60-72 hr weeks. I reinstalled the stock pan when I was running stock engine/gearbox mounts. Was easy enough and could use basic tools. Now that I've switched to the circuit sports solid engine/gearbox mounts, oil pan install was not straightforward at all. These mounts are supposed to sit the engine slightly lower. Dropped the swaybar and cusco tension bar, and in hindsight I probably should have dropped the front crossmember as well. I noticed on the passenger side of the crossmember there was about about 2-3mm less clearance compared to the drivers side. I find this weird. Fitment isn't the cause as the pan has 4 studs - 2 on drivers side & 2 on passenger side. Fabbed up my own extension by modifying a bolt LOL, because a 1/4 drive or 1/2 drive didn't fit between the crossmember gap. Also, my fuel lines are rubbing against the side of the pan. Replacement Oil Pan Minimal Clearance - had to slide the socket in horizontally with the bolt in it, and then fit the homemade extension into it. Big risk for cross-threading so I don't recommend. Drivers side front crossmember clearance - approx 10mm, and a line rubbing on oil pan. Passenger side front crossmember - approx. 8mm clearance. In other news, my clutch pedal is now squeaking as the workshop who did the install didn't grease the Nismo pedal bracket (I noticed the absence of grease when I had a look under the dash at home)...and they also didn't adjust the pedal heights to within factory specs like I asked. The clutch pedal is lower than the brake. Sigh. So next weekend I'll be disassembling the clutch pedal, greasing it up, then I'll adjust the pushrod and pedal stopper myself. Very few workshops pay attention to detail, and too many just take shortcuts.Very annoying.

Cheers = ]No man I didnt prime. I sanded off the existing paint then sanded the pipe. To do this started with 180 grit (from memory) and finished with 600 grit. Then sprayed the paint and let it sit in the sun for about 15 mins between each coat. Once on the car just followed the instructions to bake the paint onto the pipe. Has held up nicely.

The standard clutch which has been in the car since new, has been lunching itself for the past few weeks. Surprised it lasted so long before slipping. I've booked the car into the mechanics on Tuesday & the car will be driveable again by the end of the week. I've gone ahead and bought an ORC 559 Twin Plate Clutch Kit (Damperless Version). This kit is made to order for the S15 so expect to wait a few weeks if you want one. This clutch will stand up to 550ps and 650nm of torque which is necessary due to my plans for the car. This clutch has no damper springs and is not for the feint hearted, it will be loud and it will sound like samurai swords clanging together. It comes with lightweight chromoly flywheel, release sleeve assembly and grease. I've also bought the following parts seeing as the gearbox will be out: Nissan Genuine OEM Seal Kit Nismo Reinforced Release Pivot Nismo Reinforced Pedal Bracket Nismo Braided Clutch Line I actually wasn't sure which flywheel bolts I needed seeing as I will now have a single mass flywheel - so I bought S15 & Z32 flywheel bolts and will just sell whichever set I don't need.

Will try get some good pics next month. Here are my alignment specs: FRONT: Castor 7°16' (Left) 7°01' (Right) Camber -1°53 (Left) -1°52' (Right) Toe -0.9mm (Left) -0.9mm (Right) -1.7mm (Total) REAR: Camber -1°37' (Left) -1°37' (Right) Toe 0.8mm (Left) 0.3mm (Right) 1.1mm (Total) Thrust Angle -0°01'

Thanks Daniel. Cameron, here is a quick summary of whats been happening: Suspension Issues, Tuning & Corner Weighting For a while, I've been feeling a bit disappointed with the handling of my car. At first I thought it was alright, but the more I drove the car the more I felt the suspension isn't responding as it should be. I'd also occasionally been hearing a 'knocking' noise when braking ever since a mate fitted all my suspension stuff way back. I booked into a professional workshop and arranged the S-chassis guru to do a full corner weight on the car, and I asked for the workshop to diagnose the issues I'd been experiencing. It turned out the suspension hadn't been adjusted correctly when it was fiddled with, the drivers side lower control arm was loose (it wasn't tightened enough after the bush was reset) thus causing the knocking, and a few other things that just shouldn't have happened. Anyway, with all that sorted I told him the type of driving I do & gave him freedom to work his magic. So the car was fully corner weighted - ride height adjusted and spring preload dialled in.The car is setup with rake & FS is within 3.5kg now. From there, the car was set up with an aggressive wheel alignment. The handling of the car is absolutely unreal now, nicely balanced and super responsive. Rear Brake Pads - Premature Wear and the Solution. For the past few months I've been having rear braking issues - I was chewing out rear 'Remsa' brake pads in 5,000kms driving normally. The brake pedal felt very firm, the rear pads would bite hard instantly and the rear end didn't feel particularly stable under braking. So I ended up getting fed up and took the car to another mechanic (the previous mechanic who was installing the pads wasn't able to work out the issue). The new mechanic I went to told me that it was a simple case that the rear pads were sitting in the caliper too tight thus causing the premature wear. He filed down the backing plate and problem solved. I'd already bought a genuine rear caliper rebuild kit, so I got him to rebuild the rear calipers as well. Safe to say I will be using this mechanic again in the future. The mechanic who didn't install the pads properly also claimed my Circuit Sports engine/gearbox mounts took 4 hours to install. Funnily enough, a mate of mine bought these exact engine/gearbox mounts... and it took him 2 hours to install them without a hoist. Needless to say, after the brakes and after hearing this... I will not be going back there. It's gotten to the point I am now very selective and careful with who I get to work on the car, due to the issues I've had with poor workmanship etc. Clutch My clutch has been slipping for a good while now, even at 1/4 throttle in 3rd it will slip above 3000rpm. I have ordered a new clutch from Japan which is being made as we speak for the S15. I should be getting the package sometime in May so I will leave the details as a suprise. ~Thanks for reading

Count me in please.

All skyline meet you say =P .

Looking into ORC and OS Giken clutches.... and noticed there is dampened and non-dampened options. What are the advantages and disadvantages of dampened /non-dampened? Does the dampened still make the typical twin plate rattle? Also does anyone have experience with the OS giken or Nismo or ORC twin plate clutch? Post your experiences please. Thanks for any help.