cabramatta

Appreciate the detailed response! It's all new technology to me and your suggestion for reducing DC and finding sweet spots seems like a great approach. I'll chuck a clamp meter on it at the same time and figure out whats happening at different settings to get a good understanding. Will report back with my findings when I get around to it to help anyone in the future that will be in the same situation as me 😁

Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM. I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup. I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software: Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump: Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ? I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅

Thankyou

Yeah It might be a bit of a stretch to find one for $3k but I figured I'd put feelers out regardless if anyone was after a quick sale. Plan B is to just get one when I got to Japan in May for $2400. You'd be silly to spend $4k on one when you can get it delivered to your door in under 2 weeks from Japan for less.

After a R34 GTT Manual Gearbox in Melbourne. Needs to be brand new in box. Budget is $3,000 before I purchase from overseas in May. Cheers

Will you go $250 shipped to vic ? If so let me know will transfer you asap

After a A31 cefiro in NSW Please PM me if you have one thanks

Damn you cool cats living near all the good car scenes

everything sold

vrs kit sold does not include piping to turbo as it was retained for the front mount 170 for mounts 50 for sidemount

Prices reduced 200 for mounts 70 for side mount 120 for gasket kit

up up

Will do $350 for both the mounts and the gasket kit or $380 posted anywhere in aus

bamp

It was fine for so long then decided it wanted to squeak just because it sat around not being used haha I'll try to get a rubber tube so I can curve it over the fork to get the other side with some grease. Just scared of getting it on the pressure plate is all! Thanks mate

Got a squeaky clutch after the car was on stands for 2 months and pin pointed the noise to the clutch fork. R34 gtt. I'm assuming it's the pivot point as I had the same issue in My old r33 which I greased up with bike chain oil and it was fine after that. This one seems to look a bit more tricky though since it has 2 points that pivot rather than one. Anyone had luck greasing a pull type with the box on the car? I really don't want to take it off for something so small as the clutch is still new on it and nothing needs replacing. Open to any suggestions! Cheers

Bump

Item: R34 GTT Sidemount Intercooler + scoop Condition: Used but good Price: $100 Item: Nismo R34 GTT (HICAS model) Engine Mounts and Gearbox mount (Have read that it will also fit R33 GTST S1 and S2, please confirm) Condition: Brand new Price: $250 Item: OEM Nissan VRS kit for R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO) - Few bits missing that I used Condition: brand new Price: $160 Info: Everything is there except for the plenum top gasket, IACV gasket, throttle body gasket and half moon seals for the valve cover Located in Silverwater NSW for pickup or can ship at buyers expense

Thanks for the help guys! It was indeed a rusty lip on the innards! Sanded it smooth with some emery and it slipped on easy after! Cheers

Handbrake is off! (made that mistake before with another car)

Am I missing something ? Pulled the whole car apart to replace all bushings and put everything back together, the only thing I'm stuck at is putting the rear rotors back on! I put everything back together according to the manual (and reference photos I took before pulling apart the shoes/springs etc because I knew I'd have a hard time remembering where everything goes). The toothed adjuster is also adjusted all the way IN to pull the shoes in closer. The rotors/shoes are not new which makes me scratch my head even more

after a pair of side skirts for a r34 gtt coupe doesn't have to be OEM, can be aftermarket as long as it doesn't look aids and isn't (too) damaged. pref in sydney

bampz

bamp

Anyone know where I can buy just the bushings that replace the balljoints ?