Big Mac

Yes mate all working like a champ now thanks! Turns out the chap who'd installed the TPS follower circuit had gotten two of the wires the wrong way round so no signal was being received; reversed this and now everything's hunky dory

Just a quick update to put this one to bed (and in case anyone has a similar issue!): On the RS Four S it is indeed pin 37 that relays the TPS signal to the ATTESA ECU. All sorted on my car now, thanks to all who replied for your help

OK, have just had a read of that, now I have more questions lol 1) pin #37 on the original ECU send the TPS voltage to the ATTESA? 2) Does ATTESA require the correct TPS voltage/signal to operate correctly, or is it just a case of giving it the 3.7v as per Secret Squirrel trick? Or does this just fool it into thinking the throttle is part open the whole time? 3) If I just splice the signal from the TPS>ECU to the wire that was on pin #37 on the original ECU, would that then give the correct feed to the ATTESA? Thanks again, much appreciated!

Yeah I had to manually wire the A/C relay straight to the controls to get that working! Works OK although you don't get the ECU compensating by raising the idle rpm, but I can live with that. I'll have a look for the Secret Squirrel info now, thanks!

Evening all, I've had a look at the pin-out diagrams but I'm struggling! Would anyone know which pin on the RS Four S is the one that transmits the Throttle Position Sensor output to the ATTESA ECU? Basically I've got a Haltech Sprint 500 in the car now but I'm getting a TPS Circuit Error, and I'm buggered if I can work out which wire should be feeding the signal to the 4wd ecu! Many thanks Alex

Firstly, greetings from the UK I'm having a spot of bother with the Stagea, perhaps a few of you knowledgeable bods will be able to solve this little puzzle... This is on an RB25DET NEO. The MAF/AFM voltage (both at the MAF itself and at the ECU) is reading ~2.2v at idle, which is causing the engine to overfuel and preventing it from running/revving. If I unplug the MAF the engine pulls back the fuelling and idles fine, and will rev to about 2.5k at which point it pulls timing as it is in safe mode. If I then check the MAF signal without it being connected to the ECU, it reads ~1.2v at idle, which is the correct value I believe. So far I have replaced (all with known working parts): MAF ECU CAS I have replaced the wiring between the MAF and the ECU, and also run a new +12v live wire straight to the battery. Using a multimeter I have confirmed that the live and earth are good at the MAF, and also that the voltage on the signal pin at the MAF matches what the ECU is seeing. I checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator to make sure tha thte diaphragm was OK, and it isn't chucking fuel down the vacuum line into the plenum (but then if this was the case it would still do it with the MAF unplugged I guess). Injector time is around 2ms without the MAF connected, as soon as it is plugged back in this goes up to ~11ms (hence the overfuelling). I'm now out of ideas as to how I can get this thing working again - can anyone think of what might be causing the signal to be incorrect from the MAF when it is linked to the ECU? Thanks in advance, this is doing my head in now.......