pomnz

Well many weeks and dollars have passed and I've still not sorted this issue. I've cleaned the grounds behind the dash as suggested, let me tell you that was not a fun job. I took the car to Nissan who told me they had no idea what was wrong with it "coz its Japanese" and then they charged me for the privilege. The only useful bit of info I got out of them is that the code is definitely U1000 which according to them is "just a ghost code that doesn't mean anything". I guess that's why Alex sees it with no issues on his car. They also said that the abs control unit is not detecting any of the four wheel sensors which makes me think its not a speed sensor issue as the chances of all four failing at once is pretty remote. Next thing I'm going to try is replacing the ABS actuator which I guess I may have damaged by forcing calipers open when i did the rotors ? That's unless anyone has any better ideas? I'm open to suggestions here guys so fire away.

Ok so turns out the code is 'U1000 can com circuit' which I got from my local garage as PN Mad suggested in the brakes thread. I have read through the service bulletin http://engine-codes.com/uploads/nissan/NTB06-009a.pdf that refers to the ECM, I take it this is the ECU? Has anyone fixed this themselves?

Did you have the base of the seat lowered? I have to do this after my (short) missus has been driving otherwise I can't get comfy.

Attesa fluid is fine just above the max line, not had time to check anything else but thanks for the suggestions do far guys. Scott I also think speed sensors is the issue but we'll see.

Hello to all I have decided to make a new thread about this problem as I am pretty desperate and even considering going to the local stealership for help so any ideas would be greatly received. Car is a 2002 VQ25DET NM35 with Hicas. I changed my rear pads and rotors about 300kms ago and my fronts about 1500kms ago without issue and had been enjoying the improved braking feel until yesterday when I went round a bend giving it some decent throttle. The rear lost traction and stepped out a lot more than it should with the ATESSA and I had to apply a fair bit of opposite lock to straighten up. Once I'd stopped the ABS light popped on. I tried restarting the car several times but after about ten seconds there is a soft whirring noise and then the ABS light comes back on and stays on. I've done the fault code thing and the ECU says no faults. I'm sure the 4WD is not working as I went sideways again accidentally this morning when pulling out of a junction in the wet and almost crashed, not cool. I have also put it in snow mode and the torque needle gauge stays at 0. I have looked at the car today and found that the brake fluid was over full, I presume this happened when I fitted the new brakes as I had to push the pistons on the calipers in to make room for the fresh pads. I drained the excess today but the ABS light is still on. Could this have damaged something? I guess it has been like this for approx 350kms? The noise, which only lasts for a few seconds, comes from the part to the left of the brake fluid reservoir (ABS unit? See pic) and occurs approx 5-10 seconds after you switch the ignition on whether the engine is running or not, as soon as this part stops whirring the ABS light comes on and stays on. So far I have tried unplugging the large plug next to this part and running the engine for a bit, there was no whirring noise but the ABS light was on immediately and stayed on. I have looked for the ABS sensors by removing a wheel as suggested but don't know what they are or where I should be looking, any help would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a pic of the whirring part. Thanks

I don't think so I got ten flashes four times in a row I was pretty sure that meant there is no fault code stored? as in 0000? BTW I love what you've done with your Stagea

Ok so now my fecking ABS light has come on WTF!!!! I changed my rear pads and rotors about 300kms ago without issue and had been enjoying the improved braking feel until today when the light popped on while sitting in traffic. I've tried restarting the car several but after about ten seconds there is a soft whirring noise and then the ABS light comes back on and stays on. I've done the fault code thing and the ECU says 0000. Anyone got any ideas? NM35 Stagea. Thanks

Is there any way I can tell if this needs doing? I'd rather not drop $250 "just to see".

Hmm I'm averaging 14.9 mostly city driving in my stock nm35 I gotta look into improving this I don't even thrash it (much)

Sweet thanks

As in the foot pedal that does the handbrake, I had to loosen it to get the new rotors on using the adjuster thingy behind the rotors but seems its too loose, my question is how do i tighten it ? can i do it without taking the rotors off, like from the pedal end?

Finally got around to fitting new rear rotors and pads (both TRW) to my NM35 Stagea, was a fairly easy job once I'd loosened the caliper bolts. My shuddering in the steering wheel that has plagued me for ages seems better although have only been around the block to make sure it still stops as haven't got the time for bedding in or a decent run. Cost me a lot more for the parts than it did for the front rotors that seems weird to me. Does anyone know how to adjust the footbrake as it doesn't seem to be working as well?

I read about it on here somewhere but can't find the thread, from memory the whole unit was taken to an auto electrician who sorted it out but it was certainly cut open somehow. Found it page 15 in the m35 info thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/185569-m35-info/page__st__280__p__4305535__hl__%22high+stop+light%22__fromsearch__1#entry4305535

I'm not sure how good the power gauge on the stagea is but I'd say your battery is farked, I found exposed plates in my wifes car (merc) and topped it up but ended up replacing the battery a few weeks later because it wouldn't hold a charge any more. I too saw a decent reading off the battery with a multimeter but as soon as I put any load on it by cranking the volts just fell away and it wouldn't start. How old is the battery? Any swelling on the sides?

Stop the frickin press, is this true or what? What can he actually do and how much?

Hey guys hoping for some help on this please, i replaced my front rotors and pads which largely cured my heavy judder under braking but its not gone completely. I'm still feeling a bit of pulsing under light braking in particular, could this be the rear rotors or something else?

I had aps problem and replaced front discs and pads and that made it alot better. I can still feel a slight pulsing especially under light braking, does this mean the rears also need doing? Car has hicas if that makes a difference?

Forgive my n00bishness but could something like this be used to dump a VQ25det Nismo ECU and then flash it onto a standard VQ25det ECU? Sharing the increasingly rare awesomeness with us all? I know our ECU is different but if we were just basically copying the settings from one ECU to another?

Hi thanks for the info. As far as I know a manual conversion can only be done for the RWD stags using a V35 manual box. There was a (very) limited run of a Axis Autech 350s Stagea that came with a VQ35 engine and a RWD manual box so it can be done for sure. There is a thread on here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/252088-m35-manual-conversion/

Hi did you get new A pillar interior covers when you bought your new interior? If so do you still have the old ones? I need a pair for mine, I don't care what colour they are. Thanks

Well i have DOT 3 in at the moment and is says on the fluid reservoir to use DOT 3 only. I just put some Bendix General CT pads on the front to replace the (worn) stock nissan pads and noticed an immediate improvement in braking performance. They were cheap enough that I can replace them if they fail my expectations but I guess time will tell

What was your experience? I've just put a set of bendix pads on the front of my nm35

Yeah I've settled on 35psi all around. Did a long road trip recently and was happy with the tyres. Swapped my front rotors and pads today, standard rotors and bendix pads. Has made a massive difference to the stopping power and that nasty juddering under braking has gone. Was a fairly easy job apart from getting the damn things off as they were a bit rusty so needed persuading with large bar.

Import your own nm35 or pm35 you will not regret it. I paid little over 7k Nz for mine and dealt direct with japan which saved me about 40% compared with local dealers. Mine's an nm35 Late 2002 model 250t RS four v hicas with a genuine 93kms,full service history from Nissan, few small dents on the body which i knew about before i bid but otherwise is in awesome condition. I'm not sure what the import costs are for aus compared with nz but check out pacific coast auto imports website, Derek who runs it is the man (and no I don't work for him I'm just a happy customer of his) They range from 150,000-300,000 yen Plus fees of about 150,000-200,000 yen to get it ready to leave japan. shipping to my door was 1500nzd and the boat stopped in aus on the way so will be less for you. The only other costs were import tax and compliance which will differ for you.

Fitted a new Pioneer 7300BT head unit yesterday, sounds good, will sound even better once I get my amp & speakers in. Getting the old tape deck out was certainly a challenge. I seem to have a screw left over from somewhere, that's fast becoming my DIY signature