import_zone

if i was you i would be double checking the prices of parts to turbo and to manual convert it, and also the availability of the parts. before coming to any any conclusion. the biggest thing is its your money and do what you feel is right for you. but people have had the experience. my suggestion is if you want a manual is to just buy a manual turbo one as interior parts are rare to come by and they can be pricey as well.

Recently had the rust repair done on both of my cars ($1360 for both). (about 4 weeks ago now). Since we have decided to put my RSfourS up for sale. Not wanting to let it go due to plans for it. but if it sells it sells if not ill be happy to keep it with the rust repaired. but selling as we are looking to upgrade to a bigger car (Elgrand). I will post link up at some point or if anyone is interested (tuned to 244KW, high km's chassis low km's engine, $16,000 atm) it will definetely be missed.

welcome to the group. the only kit that is out there to buy atm is the R34 front. any other front will have to be custom made. and as already said if you search there has been a few laurel, conversions, only seen one 32, 33 and s14 fronts, and a heap of 34 fronts. but just remember that any of these kits will need to be modified and be custom made, even the 34 front kits as they are not perfect. if you can get someone to photoshop the 180 front onto a stagea that would give you a rough look for the conversion or any other front you would be looking at as a template and to see if you like the idea.

http://autostreak.jp/?pkey=parts_free_word&limit_maker[]=DAR&limit_car[]=2411&page=1&max=10&car_url=c34stagia --few on here or http://www.freeway-dolphin.co.jp/ck_aeroform/stagea_c34_amc_2.html couple of links for lips that would work. just need to contact. first is expensive freight. second is hard to get in contact to order i believe.

I just had a quick look on the will they fit page and did a measurements of my rear wheels with the 8.5" wheels. the +6 would sit as far out as my 9, where as the +18 would sit as far on the inside as mine, which scrap slightly so depending on your camber and how low the +6 may be the way to go on the manual for the rear. a s for fronts the +18 are perfect (sit out about the same as my wheels but i am wanting mine to sit further out), but the +6 would make it about flush with the gaurd. but again depends on how low. and this is comparing to my RS4s and my dimentions on my wheels for you. If you require pictures on my GTR wheels on for how they sit i can try and get them for you. but the will they fit page is a good site to check.

definetely not. i got r33 gtr wheels (I know its 17x9 +30 but extra inch in the wheel would make mine much worse) on mine but the rears scrapped massively, got 15mm bolt on spacers but still scraps over bumps. I would need atleast another 5mm to clear struts over bumps. mine is lowered so if its higher or has adjustable camber arms could probably get them further away from the struts. as for the fronts i have plenty of room no issues with the +30 but i would again go further down towards a +20-25 atleast.

post in the Stagea section for better help. but have them test/check the AFM as they are a common issue on the M35's. but again best bet post in the Stagea section for better answers of others with M35's that may have had this issue

last week i saw full centre consoles on yahoo japan. dont have a look but i am sure if u have a search you would be able to find them. think they even had manual boxes and hand brakes. but depends if you want to go along that line or check locally first.

when i was working as a tech a technique we used was slight emery tape/sand paper, and lightly apply to the grove section of the belt while running, but it would be slightly harder on our cars due to the viscous fan, so may want to take them off and give them a very light going over. other thing you may want to check is your turbo nuts to make sure the turbo isn't loose i know this can cause a similar noise to a loose belt but thats obviously only happens when on boost. if not double check belts and make sure they are the correct sizes for the car. just a couple of tips. but without hearing noise it can be hard to diagnose and do fixes.

I know one of the guys here in Adelaide is at 344 AWKW in his S1 with a neo motor, using E85 and the 3076 turbo, talk to the guys at boost brothers performance as its one of there cars and he can help you in terms of what can be done, i believe only extra thing he has done on his car then you is a set of cams, and i think he is running less boost as well. I know he has a user name on here as well but cant remember it off the top of my head.

U wouldn't happen to have a picture of the ones ur running by any chance? As I have an rs4s so making sure it's not already there. I have Cusco front and rear strut braces already. But looking at other ideas to strengthen the body. Sway bars will be next on agenda.

Just quickly putting up as did a search here and google and came up with nothing. Does anyone know and have pictures of any bracing that an autech 260rs has? As I am looking to build more bracing for my rsfourS and just looking for ideas of where the autech had it as too where I should start. Or if anyone knows where I can get some would be good to.

No not quite as I got a s2. Left chrome. Missus got home and didn't like the no badge thing so just put the stag emblem back on for the time being.

Finished off doing a blue dash light conversion today after a few weeks with out a speedo due to dirt and no globes. Also had my car finally back on the road a month or so ago after a second hand motor went in after a yr of being off the road. And also de badged the grill today as well of the stag emblem and the rs four badge

Spotted a s1 and a s2 34 driving down bridge rd towards the city at para vista this morning around 7.30