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Battery is and was fine, engine turns over, no firing/start. No spark, and now no ignition etc lights.

By no dash lights I mean everything, brake, ignition, hicas - everything off... when ignition is turned on

Hoping to find some experts/experience. Replaced water pump and rebuilt inlet side, so CAS and everything fuel/air related has come out and gone back. Flushed fuel tank and had injectors cleaned. Went to start it, dash all lighted up, cranks well, but would not start. Took plugs out, strong fuel smell, plugs were wet, so injectors are working. Traced it down to "no spark". In the course of cranking the engine to check voltages to coil packs, my assistant left the ignition "on" for 3-4 minutes. Now there are NO dash lights. So: 1. Any common things to R32 GTR check for no-spark? 2. What would cause the dash lights to die with ignition on? Car was last started about 12 months ago, ran fine. Any assistance appreciated. John

From http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/resource-center/81611-rexbos-guide-brake-caliper-rebuilding.html Rexbo’s Guide to Rebuilding Brake Calipers This is a quick guide with pictures to rebuilding a set of used R32 GTR brake calipers. While doing this, remember that these are your brakes. Your life depends on your brakes working so do not shortcut or make any shady efforts. Use only new parts to rebuild the calipers, replace the pads and bleed the fluid correctly, replacing with new brake fluid. Please note that the rebuild kit is the same one as used to rebuild s14 as well as z32 front calipers. It will NOT work on s13 calipers or any Nissan Brembo caliper. Also remember to keep track of all your little pieces and parts! They can be a pain to replace if you lose them! The calipers as shown are already off the car, I will do a separate write-up of how to do a brake caliper swap as well as 5-lug Tools Needed: - Compressed Air - Nissan front and rear brake caliper rebuild kit #INF22690-64Y12 - Pliers (Normal, Needle-nose and vice-grip pliers) - Flat head and Phillips screwdrivers - 200 Grit and 400 grit or so sandpaper and a sanding block of some kind - WD40 or other lubricant - Brake fluid - Brake pad anti-squeak compound - Rags/Paper towels * CAUTION: YOU ARE WORKING WITH BRAKE FLUID, ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION AS IT IS EXTREMELY TOXIC* Disassembly: (Front and Rear Calipers) I will make this quick, as I have better pictures for re-assembly. 1) Take off the dust cover retaining rings around the caliper pistons. There should be 4, if you are unclear to what they are, scroll down. 2) Take an inch-thick piece of wood and put it in between the pistons of the caliper, or if the brake pads are still in the calipers, leave them there so that when you blow compressed air into the hole, the pistons will not be pushed out all the way. 3) Push the compressed air nozzle and GENTLY start feeding pressure into the brake caliper assembly through the hole where the brake line normally fits. * CAUTION: WATCH YOUR FINGERS AND EYES. THE PISTONS CAN SHOOT OUT IF THEY ARE LOOSE SO BE VERY CAREFUL* 4) Once the pistons have all pushed out and are squeezing the pads or piece of wood, Pull the pads or wood out and shove a kitchen sponge or a wadded-up rag in the caliper to dampen the impact of the pistons when they push out. Gently apply air pressure again. 5) Once all the pistons have popped out, remove them, and if any are stuck gently pry on them with pliers, careful not to scratch or damage the sealing surface of the piston (the polished part). 6) Take a small flat head screwdriver and carefully pry the inner piston ring out, making sure not to scratch or damage the sealing surface of the caliper piston sleeve. 7) Bag and mark everything for later use, now it is time to clean your calipers however you choose. I will not cover this, as I recommend that you take the caliper to a professional powdercoater. 8) To get the shiny Nissan logo on the calipers, I took 200-grit sandpaper to the lettering, making sure to use masking tape to cover up parts of the caliper that I didn’t want to scratch. Sand until most of the paint is gone, then use the 400-grit to finish up the rest of the paint and to give the metal a shinier look. Alternatively you could paint the letters, but I found that sanding was faster. Report this image Front Reassembly: Report this image 1) Use compressed air to blow all debris out of the fluid passages and out of the cylinders. 2) Spray some WD40 or other lubricant on a rag or paper towel and wipe down the inside of the cylinders as well as the outside of the pistons to clean them. Report this image Report this image 3) Once that has dried, on a separate rag, soak some brake fluid into it and wipe down the outside of the pistons and the inside of the cylinders to lubricate them. After that be careful not to touch the surfaces you just cleaned! Remember these are your brakes, your life depends on them, so be very careful! Report this image 4) Take some of the supplied Nissan grease, and squeeze it into the bag holding the piston rings. Work it around so that the seals are completely covered in grease. Report this image 5) Insert the seals into the cylinder grooves, making sure they sit completely flush inside and that the piston will not pinch any part of it. The left cylinder is flush, the right is how you insert them in and work around. Report this image 6) Stretch the rubber dust boots over the top of the pistons, making sure to grease the inside of the boot a little bit before stretching over. These make sure no brake dust contaminates the piston seal. Also clean them with brake fluid after touching the lower part as I am in this picture. Report this image 7) Insert the clean pistons one at a time, and push them in until they bottom out. If they do not go in just with hand pressure, be sure they are in the cylinder correctly and that the seals are correctly seated. Report this image 8) Snap the dust boot over the lip surrounding each piston, and clamp them down with the supplied snap rings. Report this image Report this image Front Brake Pad Install: Report this image 1) As I was missing the front shim hardware, this is an alternate method. Coat the back of the supplied brake pads with the anti-squeal compound you should have. Put a pea-sized drop for each piston and spread it around with a paper towel or rag. Report this image 2) Insert the two pins from the outboard side first until they stick about an inch into the caliper. Slide the outboard brake pad (the one without the low pad warning tabs) onto the pins and push it until it rests against the pistons. Report this image 3) Repeat with the inboard pad and slide the pins all the way through until they stick through the inboard side of the caliper. Report this image 4) Install the anti-rattle spring with the bent part facing the top of the caliper (where the bleed nipple is). Report this image 5) Install the supplied spring or your own cotter pins or safety wire to the pins to ensure they do not slide out. Report this image Rear Reassembly: Report this image 1) Use compressed air to blow all debris out of the fluid passages and out of the cylinders. Much of the reassembly is the same as the front calipers so follow the same steps again. 2) Spray some WD40 or other lubricant on a rag or paper towel and wipe down the inside of the cylinders as well as the outside of the pistons to clean them. 3) Once that has dried, on a separate rag, soak some brake fluid into it and wipe down the outside of the pistons and the inside of the cylinders to lubricate them. After that be careful not to touch the surfaces you just cleaned! Remember these are your brakes, your life depends on them, so be very careful! 4) Take some of the supplied Nissan grease, and squeeze it into the bag holding the piston rings. Work it around so that the seals are completely covered in grease. 5) Insert the seals into the cylinder grooves, making sure they sit completely flush inside and that the piston will not pinch any part of it. Report this image 6) Stretch the rubber dust boots over the top of the pistons, making sure to grease the inside of the boot a little bit before stretching over. These make sure no brake dust contaminates the piston seal. 7) Insert the clean pistons one at a time, and push them in until they bottom out. If they do not go in just with hand pressure, be sure they are in the cylinder correctly and that the seals are correctly seated. Report this image 8) Snap the dust boot over the lip surrounding each piston, and clamp them down with the supplied snap rings. Report this image Rear Brake Pad Install: Report this image 1) Coat the underside of the rear pad retaining clips with the anti-squeal compound, as these are the parts that will contact the caliper, and may rust in the future if not protected. Install them by clipping them to the top and bottom inside of the caliper. Report this image Report this image 2) Arrange the shims on the pads so that the black shim is sandwiched between the silver shim which should clip to the brake pad itself. Report this image 3) Slide the pads into the caliper on their respective sides. The inboard pad should have the low pad warning clip on it. Report this image 4) Slide the upper retaining pin all the way through the caliper and both pads. Install the anti-rattle clip in the center, then slide the lower pin all the way through as well. Report this image 5) Install the supplied retaining ring, or alternatively use cotter pins or safety wire to make sure the pins will not slide out while driving. Report this image You’re done! The brakes are now ready to install on your car, which I will cover later on when I do my complete s13 5-lug swap and brake swap write-up. Total Costs: - R32 GTR Front and Rear Calipers (used) - $540.00 - Caliper Rebuilt Kit from Nissan - $24.88 - Caliper sandblasting and powdercoating - $135.00 - Hawk HPS front and rear brake pads - $140.00 ------------ Total: $839.88 If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me via Email at [email protected] or on AIM at Rexbo2006, or PM me anytime on these forums. Thank you and I hope this helps! Rexbo __________________ http://240sxforums.com/forums/showth...highlight=swap http://www.kognitiondesign.com I learned that good judgment comes from experience and that experience grows out of mistakes. - General Omar N. Bradley

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LOW/NO FUEL OR TANK WILL BE TOO HEAVY. CAR ON JACK/AXLE STANDS or RAMPS IS NEEDED TO GET ACCESS TO EXHAUST COVER. 1a. Pull the fuel pump fuse and start car - it will cut out when fuel is consumed, then disconnect battery OR 1b. Make sure engine is cold, disconnect battery, undo both fuel hoses in the engine bay slowly so fuel can leak out OR 1c, undo fuel filter, put on a long temporary hose into a plastic jerry can and turn ignition on to pump fuel out. 2. Remove boot mat, undo 4 screws over fuel pump, lift off cover. Disconnect electrical connectors, disconnect fuel hoses. NOTE THE fuel hose going away from the tank is the pressurised line and needs a good quality screw connector. 3. Under right guard, remove the fuel hose protector plate, then the single screw that holds the filler tube and earth cable.. Loosen off one of the hose connectors so the hose can rotate. Pop fuel lid and push on the centre of the fuel cap - the hose will pop back. Leave fuel cap on. 4. Underneath car, undo the nuts that hold the exhaust muffler pipe heat shielding in place. You probably cant remove this if you have a non-standard exhaust. Leave the exhaust brackets alone. 5. Undo the rear two strap connectors. One is a bolt, the other is a nut, both are 17mm sockets. Use a 12 inch extension bar. Leave the front two straps in place, the straps will flex easily. And one of them is nigh impossible to undo. 6. Drop the tank down and undo the fuel breather tube going back to the car. 7. Tank is now out. Dust it off it will have loads of gravel and dirt on the upper side. Degrease your diff if you want. Remove the heat shield, and remove the filler hose and inside that the metal insert. 8. Put a rag over the hoses still attached to the car, go up to engine side and use a low pressure compressor or your lungs to blow the fuel back out. Then flush with carbie cleaner, and blow out again. 9. Drain remaining fuel, remove fuel tank sender cover, wash with fresh hi-octane fuel, jiggle it and leave it upside down to dry out. 10. Put fuel tank sender cover back on, note that all the rubber seal goes inside the tank. 11. Fit heat shield roughly in place. 12. Reassembly is reverse order, connect breather hose first then lift. Make sure you jiggle the tank to try and get it back in position using straps as a guide. Use a jack on very low pressure to hold it in place. Do each nut/bolt up only a bit at a time to make sure u have it positioned correctly. Make sure you connect the earth strap to the fuel filler tube. Put some fresh fuel in tank, reconnect engine bay, put ignition on to test pressures before finishing up.

mirrors available? Im after drivers side, freight to 2617, plus any RHS door / window / interior trim

Theres a thread here on rebuilding the AAC valve... if you're close to Canberra i could help with this and the goo....

Did you clean and redo the AAC valve? There is an idle adjustment screw there, plus the rebuild procedure which will also help get the idle right. I have heard of similar high idles with cleaned throttles. If i were you I'd take the plenum off, do the throttle body goo repair, recondition the AAC valve and replace the gaskets. If you think you have a vauumc leak, spray "Start yer Bastard" around the usual suspects. if the idle goes up, you found the leak. If you used paper (or old) gaskets around the throttle bodies, I'd start there first.....

I have the bottle i bought from sir_RB sitting on my desk here. where are you located? PM me, we can come to an arrangement..

I used an artist paintbrush rather than the one in the can, much easier to be precise. Throttles seal and they are now on the bump stop. not as neat as i would like but seems to be doing the job. MORALE: DONT CLEAN THROTTLE BODY, EVER

TOMEI replies to my query: Looks like clean adn try again. Im going to use a small paintbrush than the one supplied in the can. Too hard to control. Note also that you close it to let it dry. On 22 November 2012 20:00, Tomei Powered USA <[email protected]> wrote: Dear John, It sounds like you've used too much. Depending on how you have applied it, might be best to remove it and start again. You only need to apply it on the edges, where the shaft makes contact with the wall. Then on the butterfly rim edge itself, where it touches the wall, the outer part mainly. Go to the bottom of this page to see examples http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e193_others_gauge.html to remove it, you can use paint thinner or acetone solution (or similar).

CRC Carbie Cleaner removes the TOMEI Throttle Coat pretty well. Tried using it to soften, not sure it will leave the surface OK. Took a lot of scrubbing to get the throttles completely closing. Any suggestions/recommendations on how to apply the throttle coat CORRECTLY would be greatly appreciated. The brush in the can is too big.

I used the Tomei throttle coat, tied the butterflies open to let it air dry now the throttles wont close. have tried opening and closing to see if it would "wear" but no luck. Is there something that will soften the coat, or do i need to remove and start again? How to do? Thanks John

PM SENT

Oh, a set of Rb26 throttle bodies would be good, I "cleaned" mine b4 realising you dont clean them

Alternatively a price for as is.....

How much for the shell only? I do need a Right guard though, can swap for a left Original colour/Paoint (pics are a bit dark). Can you please email/post pics of rust plus any underside issues? Has it been pranged previously? Shell includes rear diff etc? Mine is for road use, I put my car into one of those cheesewire barriers at about 30 km/h, not a good result... Cheers, John

Yes they build up with crap. Dismantle everything, use carbie cleaner. Do up the big brass screw until there is no wobble in the valve. IE the spring has barely taken up the slack. Do up the AAC adjust screw (smaller one) until it is about half way showing through the hole. Dont forget to get it all good, then take the big brass screw back out, use medium/hard setting locktite, then do it up again, then put on a ring of locktite exterior as a seal,

Pics have dropped off, any chance of a repair?

Did you work out where they go? I had lower front cover off... also the entire intake side and water pump. Have ti all back together and have these two suckers left over! Would rather not have to do it again.....

QN: When you take up the free end play screwing in the brass lug, and you install the solenoid, the plunger is opened slightly by the solenoid. The plunger o the solenoid sticks out a little (probably 2 mm) . So when the solenoid is screwed back on, the valve is opened again. Should I do up the screw until this doesnt happen (seems a long way in). Or should I do up the screw unil it "just" seals, and then fit the solenoid leaving the air valve open slightly..? Any assistance appreciated. BTW Effin amazing tutorial!

The throttle body lugs (12) are all accounted for. These two lugs are about 4mm shorter, same diameter.

They are hollow, not locator lugs. Anyone????

Here's a bad pic from my phone of the two hollow lugs..

It's a guess, but airbag sensor?