fricktion

Just renewed 12 months rego

RARE 1993 ECR32 GTS25 Coupe $19,500 including 12 months rego I've owned this car for 7 years and the majority of that time it has been parked in my garage, slowly being built up to what it is today. I never thought there would come a day that I'd sell it although circumstances change, and she's up for sale. The new engine and most of the parts listed here have 2500km's on them, The engine has been run in and that's about it. This is a classic case of my loss is your gain. I've put everything into this car now all you need to do is turn the key. Still running a very basic tune making 240kw @9psi and 290kw @16psi. It is setup with circuit/ drift in mind and is definitely a track car. There is nothing nice nor comfortable about it although it is road registered. The roll cage is engineered and it is registered as a 2 seater. If you are looking for something that looks pretty you're in the wrong place. This car would look more comfortable in a demolition derby than in a showroom. Don't let the photos fool you it is scratched and dinged up. The front bumber is cable tied on and there is some good dents in the rear quarter, it's not pretty. Absolutely no body filler though it's all original, what you see is what you get. No rust and has spent all 7 years of my ownership indoors parked in a garage out of the weather. Don't call me and tell me you can buy a GTR for this money. Go and buy a GTR there's plenty for sale. You will not find another gts25 coupe with a setup like this in Australia. It's definitely not your average HR32 gtst. Over $20k in receipts. Feel free to give me a call with any questions. No test drives without deposit. 1993 ECR32 Skyline Coupe Engine - Original RB25DE Head Ported and Polished - RB30E Series 2 Block Bored, Honed & Decked - Nitto/JE .40 thou Oversized Forged Pistons - Forged H Beam+ Conrods - Nitto Crank Colla - King Bearings - Supertech Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers - ARP Head Studs - ARP Metal Head Gasket - ATI 750hp Super Damper - Nitto Oil Pump - High Capacity 6.5L Gated Sump - RB26 Cams - SPOOL Adjustable Cam Gears - HKS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold (port matched) - HKS 50mm External Wastegate + 45mm Screamer - Garret GT35r Turbo with .5 Comp Housing - 3.5” Front Pipe - Aluminium Intake Manifold (port matched) - 850cc Injectors - Splitfire Coilpacks - RB26DETT Apexi Power FC Accessories - 19 Row Just Jap Oil Cooler - Power Steering Cooler - Custom Catch Can Baffled - Double Core 52mm Radiator - Twin 10” Thermo Fans - Aluminium 600x300 Intercooler - Tial QR 50mm Blow off Valve with Return - Custom Aluminium Intercooler Piping 2.5” - GReddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - Z32 AFM - Lewis Engines Rear Head Drain to Sump *No A/C pump, lines or condenser* *No hicas bar, lines, pumps* Justjap Hicas Lock Bar, GTR Power Steering Pump Drive-train - RB25DET Gear Box - Short Shift Kit - NPC Carbotic Button Clutch - NPC Lightened Billet Flywheel - Nismo 2 Way LSD Wheels & Suspension - Rota D2EX 18x9.5 +15, 18x10 et15 - HSD HR Coilovers with 6-8kg springs - D-project top front camber arms - 5 Stud conversion - GTST Cross Members - GTST Steering rack - GTST caliper/rotor conversion front and rear - 325mm Rotors with GKTech dogbones - Front and rear Cusco strut braces - Rear KKR adjustable camber arms - Hardrace Castor Arms - Hardrace Adjustable Lower Control Arms - GTR Sway Bars Body Work & Paint - GTR carbon fibre bonnet - GTR Copy fibreglass front bar - GTR grill - GTR pods - GTR side skirts - GTR rear wing - GTR headlights - Guards pumped, flared and bashed into shape Interior - Velo Fixed bucket seats - Bride S13 super low rails - Andra 4 point half cage Engineered - 3 autometer gauges in centre air vent - Boost Guage drivers side air vent - Nardi Steering Wheel - Drift quick release + boss kit - RPM 4 point harness - Drift carbon gear knob - Apexi Power FC Hand Controller - GReddy Profec

Thanks mate!! I'm from Epping. Where are you from? You'd have done well to have seen the car around Sydney it's spent almost 6 out of the 7 years I've owned it locked up in my garage. Last week was its first ever trip to the creek

Yeah literally! I was in a rush to get it on the dyno before heading to Eastern Creek. No such thing as a 'quick' plug change on an RB though

Checked the plugs yesterday then spent a little more time on the dyno. It running nice and clean, still needs some work at higher boost but it's happy as a pig in mud at around 12psi. Drove it straight off the dyno and out to Eastern Creek for some drifts around the skid pan. Drove it hard all night and it behaved itself like a gentleman, then drove it home again afterward. So good to get some wheel time without something breaking on this thing. It's been solid af lately. Should see some track time very soon

Still running too much camber on the rear so the guards will need some more work but it's driving nicely. Had some fun with it on the old road this week before it goes back in for another tune

Flared/Pumped out the rear guards as well with the heat gun, baseball bat and phone book method. With a lot of patience it actually worked out really well, they're a lot more roomy. Then spent a couple of days with Heasmans getting straight.

Before wheel aligning I had to make some more room under the guards so prepped up the fibreglass guards which gave the front wheels plenty of room to move. Painted them and then decided I hated them on the car. They ruined the lines and look rubbish. So I went to town on the standard guards instead. I cut the inner lip off completely and then flared them out as much as possible. They're a bit rough but they work. Might smooth them off properly and paint them, or might just buy gtr guards we'll see.

New boost controller installed and it got its tuna. Running high and low boost settings. 235kw @ 8psi 290kw @ 16psi Kept breaking traction at higher boost so will be adjusting the wheel alignment and bringing it back in for another run soon.

Currently in ze shop getting ready for another tune.......

After winding the coilovers up a fair bit, adjusting the camber all the way in and adjusting the caster so that the wheel sat further back in the arch I managed to get them to fit without rubbing but it's a very temporary solution. It feels like absolute shit to drive. The plan was to fit some GTR front guards but a set of dmax +25mm fibreglass guards came up for sale which i grabbed instead. Still not sure whether I like them though, I think I'd rather the cleaner look of the gtr guards. Test fitted them today.

The fronts are even worse...

For as long as I've been playing with this car I've wanted to fit bigger wheels but the money kept going into other things that were more urgent. So late last year I set aside a $3k budget for wheels. Hoping a set of second hand 3p Meisters or Gram Lights would come up for sale within reach of that budget.... By March this year I got impatient and ordered a new set of Rota d2ex 18x9.5 +15 and 18x10+15 There's a set of s1 meisters for sale now though that I'm wishing I bought instead ffs. Rota's don't get a great wrap but if they're good enough for the Driftworks team they're probably good enough for me, and f**k it they look good! Trouble is they don't fit............. After a fair bit of shoe horning, adjusting the track out a bit and the camber in, they fit, with about 1mm to spare.

Yep I've done some driving on it although no real hard driving or track time. Certainly a noticeable difference in stopping time though it's definitely worthwhile. Really fills out a 17" rim too!

So after the brakes and control arms were fitted up I took the car for a test drive..... 5mins into that drive I started noticing a rattling noise as boost came on... What could have come loose? It didn't sound like the brakes or the new arms. Oh wait..... That's bearing noise... that slu*ty sump return fitting. f**k. I put it in fifth gear and drove straight into the workshop. Once it was all apart again it turned out it had spun a bearing... My suicidal Rb just tried to kill itself again, after everything I'd done for it. So fast forward a few months, another new crank and bearings and here we are keeping the dream alive. Now running 120psi Oil pressure. Removed the oil cooler so that it gets oil pressure immediately on start up and things have been good...So far....

Evo 8 Pads and cut 10mm off each end.

Ah man tell me about it!! As soon as I got the car home again it went back up on stands. I picked up some some big 324mm Rotors second hand along with the dog bone adapters to run the standard caliper. Some of the backing plate had to be grinded out although they fitted up pretty easily. The standard brake pad is too small for the bigger rotor so I used a Mitsubushi Evo brake pad and cut it down to fit so that it covered as much surface area as possible on the rotor. While the front of the car was up I had some new arms to go in as well. I was running cheap adjustable LCA's but the rose joints were clunky as and they kept coming loose so I replaced them with HardRace arms with pillowball joints. The difference in quality was pretty obvious right away.

Once again it's been a while since I've posted here but things have been happening. Updates to come....

I've got a Greddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller which is playing up. Does anyone know somewhere that can repair them? Or am I better off to just buy a new one?

I've put about 450km's on the new engine now, a good run down to Woollongong through the national park and back, and a couple of trips up the Old Pacific Hwy. No real troubles, the front sway bar came loose but was easily fixed with some new bolts and locktite... Until Monday night this week I noticed a couple of drops of oil on the driveway. I was going to take it back into the shop at 500km's for a once over and fresh oil anyway. Couldn't see any leaks from the top and the dipstick was still showing full so I put a 5L oil container in the boot just in case and went for a run up to Brooklyn. On the way back I was working it pretty hard up the hill and noticed a little bit of tappet noise. Oil pressure looked good on the guages but I pulled over anyway just to double check the oil level and literally as soon as I pulled up the handbrake the oil light came on...... Not a drop of oil on the dipstick.... Ended up pouring the whole 5L container in and was only just showing, and there was a pretty good oil slick under the car by then too. So at midnight on a Monday night I put it on a flatbed and took it back to the shop. This car absolutely f**king hates oil pressure. Fortunately this time we didn't do any damage and destroy another fresh engine but if I hadn't of noticed the tappet noise right away and it ran dry at 5500rpm we'd be back at square one.... again. As it turned out the braided line running to the sump from the head drain was leaking. Must have been a cheap bit of braided hose and the leak worsened very quickly as it got hot. So that's been replaced now and it's full of Royal Purple again. In better news we opened up the oil filter and after 450km's it's still clean as ferk, so it seems to be running in well. Going to put another 1000km's on the engine before bringing it back in to take the sump back off and put the inner relief spring back in the Nitto pump. Engine builder thinks we're better off running it at 120psi than the 75psi it's on now. Also, on start up oil is being directed through the oil cooler before the engine oil ways so it runs dry for a couple of seconds. Thinking about putting some sort of one way valve into the oil cooler fitting so that oil can't drain back to the sump. Has anyone solved this issue before?

The boost gauge started playing up so had to go back to running off wastegate pressure. Does anyone know where to get a Greddy B SPec 2 boost guage repaired? Or is it worth just buying a new one? Making nearly 240kw on a base tune @ 9psi

After some run in time on the dyno it started developing a very very slight miss at around 5000rpm. So some fresh Splitfire coils went in.