fricktion

Yeah will be worthwhile when its finished, plenty of heartbreak first though It would have been much saner to start with the black gtst but it had SA rego and needed to be blue slipped to register in NSW. The GTS25 is engineered with the half cage and velo fixed backs, plus it came standard with an RB25 so its much easier to keep it road registered. I basically have a complete car in spare parts so will probably put the RB25DE in the GTST and put rego on it as a daily. Will be easier to blue slip with that motor than it would be with the 30DET.

Returned from Melbourne 3 months later and had 7 days to play with the car and then hopefully drive it from Sydney to Melbourne at the end of the week. Worked out straight away that some of the intercooler piping had come loose and it fired up straight away and ran beautifully. Seemed to be something wrong with the stock blow off valve as it was fluttering very loud. Turns out someone had stuck a beer can under it to block it once upon a time. Took it off and installed a HKS BOV. Fitted two 10 inch thermos. Struggle to fit them in, had to relocate power steering lines and still only 5mm between them and the P/S Pump. All ready to go off to the tuner. The car was tuned for economy driving on the freeway between Sydney and Melbourne, cam gears left at 0 degrees and only running 9psi boost. Just a basic run in tune. Made 220kw. Unfortunately once the car came off the dyno the gearbox was sounding seriously unhealthy when the clutch was let out, suspected cluster shaft. Drove the car home, back into the garage for another 3 months and booked a last minute flight back to Melbourne. Have just moved back to Sydney this month to stay. UniGroup suggested upgrading intercooler and piping, plumb back blow off valve and plumb back catch can so the plan is to get it organised plus the gearbox and get it in for a full tune in the next few months.

Some things I missed. Velo's on bride super low rails. RB26DETT Power FC and Greddy Profec Boost Controller

Yep I've been waiting over a week too

Yeah maybe I've just been lucky but they've always popped about with a bit of convincing. It is easier when the cars up on a hoist rather than on stands though. Puller is always going to be a better option though, good luck with it

When separating the LCA ball joint, try bashing the side of the knuckle with a heavy hammer. Keep the bolt on top on in case you miss and damage the thread. Just need to dislodge the tapered part of the ball joint and it will fall out. Much easier than using a crow bar

This is the story of my R32 GTS25. Time to try and keep track of everything that has been done to the car as it is getting way out of hand! It started off in the hands of Scott (previous owner) as a standard R32 GTS25 with an RB25DE from factory. He added a few mods, mainly suspension, 5 stud conversion, wheels, GTR Kit, half cage plus much more. Then I bought it, added new control arms and new wheels but stayed more or less the same car for a couple of years. After a few stacks id ruined the front bar, new wheels and control arms. Which meant buying them all again. Keeping any real progress on the car at a stand still. Came to a point with the car that I really wanted to start making more power although wasn't sure on an engine swap as the factory rb25 is so rare and a I didnt want to put it on the same playing field as any old GTST. Eventually decided to keep the RB25DE Head and add an RB30 Block. Essentially it would still appear to be the same motor under the hood. But it didnt take long for me to start dreaming about turbos and then the plan changed involving a low mount turbo set up keeping it relatively inconspicuous. Going from the naturally aspirated motor to a turbo motor involved a lot more than adding a turbo, it is surprising how different a GTST is to a GTS25. So if I was to go this far, why stop there? I decided I needed a donor car and that way I could swap over front and rear cross members as well in case of any damage to mine and I would have all the necessary parts to convert to turbo. Then the challenge was to find a clean R32 GTST without breaking the bank. Not long after, I quit my full time job and took what was to be at first, a short unpaid break. Luckily around the same time I found a GTST with low km's and was clean and straight, so I sold my bike and bought the second 32. The new 32 had recently had an RB30DET conversion although it had thrown a rod and wasn't running. It did have plenty of parts that I could steal though including a Garret GT35, HKS manifold, Cams and much more. So I pulled the whole thing apart. Gave this block to my engine builder and he worked out that the cylinders had been over bored which lead to fuel leaking into the crank case and onto bearings, and eventually killed the bearings and ruined a few rods in the process. So I bought a standard series II RB30 block and gave it to him to start from scratch. New over sized bore and hone Decked block Crank Grind and Crank Colla fitted Modified Crank Oil Ways ACL Race Bearings 40. Thou Oversized Forged Pistons While the new block was in the shop, I pulled the GTS25 apart. From here I proceeded to make things worse by removing the interior, loom, ecu, steering rack, front crossmember, rear crossmember and all suspension. Slowly the GTS25 started to go back together using the best parts from both cars and more. Tein Coilovers R33 Control Arms Adjustable Camber Arms Adjustable Upper Control Arms Adjustable Castor Arms Nismo 2 way LSD Plus a whole lot more Next the New block had to be prepped to go in. I went to Nissan and ordered genuine gaskets for everything. They are a rip off, probably because its not every day someone wants genuine RB30 gaskets but at least I have the peace of mind now. Mate at Mercedes cleaned up an N1 GTR Oil pump, rear main, water pump for me. Drilled and tapped tensioner studs in the block then it was all assembled. The fresh engine was attached to an RB25DET gearbox with a button clutch and short shift kit and ready to drop into the car. Before it went in though I cut holes for cooler piping and intake while I had the space. Engine and transmission in. Now waiting for Head Gasket and Head Studs to arrive so fitted up oil cooler, intercooler and power steering coolers. A ton of metal had to be grinded out of the reo to fit but it all bolted up nicely in the end. New Cometic Metal Head Gasket and ARP Head Studs arrived and the head could finally go on. RB25DE Head is ported and polished with new cams and cam gears. Cam gears on and set at zero. Both manifolds were port matched and now ready to bolt on. HKS low mount exhaust manifold needed some modification to bolt up as the taller RB30 block stood in the way. Cooler piping to go on, 50mm HKS wastegate, Greddy boost controller, vacuum lines. An RB26DETT Apexi Power FC was installed along with a Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller. Then the arduous task of installing the new loom which was much bigger than the standard loom! Port matched intake on, 800cc injectors in and start playing connect the hose. Few more goodies to go in, 25% under driven harmonic balancer, Alloy Radiator, Bosch 044 Fuel Pump and she will be ready to fire up. Pulled it out of the garage, bled the clutch, bled the brakes, did an extremely accurate wheel alignment by eye and she was ready to fire up for her first drive. Started first go and ran beautifully... Until the oil filter sandwich plate cracked and started pissing oil... So it was back in the garage for now. The sandwich plate wasn't as easy to find as I had hoped so I switched the fitting back to standard and screwed on the standard filter to get it going. First drive went well, broke in the new motor hard, low revs 100% throttle. Bringing it home I hit a bump hard and all of a sudden it stopped running. Towed it home and ended up here. Spent a whole day in the driveway testing everything, pulling out spark plugs, testing all sensors yet couldn't even get it to idle. So brought it in, gave it a good wash, parked it in the garage and drove to Melbourne the next morning not to return for 3 months.

I find if i take a break from it for a couple of weeks it is much more powerful rather than taking it before every workout. Definitely on the hunt for a new pre-workout though and have heard good things about 1MR, anyone have any feedback on it?

well i've got a 25 head ported and polished with gtr spec cams but need to replace the bearings in the 30 block. Would rather pay someone to do it who knows what they're doing and balance the crank at the same time. I probably won't need to tune it it straight away but im considering tuning for e85 soon anyway. Thanks for your help mate.

Red R is in Newcastle isnt it? I've heard of Unigroup before for tuning but do they do all engine work?

Im looking for an engine builder in Sydney that knows RB30DET's. Need to balance and replace main/ big end bearings and will be aiming for close to 350rwkw on stock internals so the balance and tune have to be spot on. Any recommendations? Thanks guys.

Looking for an RB30e series 2 motor Only need the bottom end as it will receive a twin cam head. Must be series 2 short motor N/A. 0431 865 514

Looking for some strut towers to cut out of an A31 Cefiro. Must be in good condition (no rust), doesnt matter what colour they are.