Missileman

...what no comment from the Monza race? Must have been a boring race, glad I didn't watch it.

might be better if you state what problems you are having

Plus the cost of removing and refitting the tranny, which does not need to happen if he is only fitting a shift kit.

Get a gasket and strainer kit, 10L Nissan Matic-D and most auto specilist will be able to help you, make sure you tell them you want your old valve body back too, as MV will give you money fore it!

everyone has a brain fart now and then, and I'm not in a sharing mood

My contacts were just dirty, no melting of the little black knobs, you do need a little pick tool to remove that damn cir-clip though.

First mod I did was to upgrade from stock to Nismo fuel pump, went from inaudible to a slight buzz, and back to inaudible as soon as my exhaust was upgraded, and its a quiet exhaust. The car was a 32gtst not a 33.

they're fine, when a stud breaks it often takes out the first couple of threads

no, and no

I use a 14mm combination open end and ring spanner with offset, the open end just happens to fit the 1/2 drive of my torque wrench, so I set the correct torque and feel how much pressure I need to apply to the spanner before the pin pops. Then put the spanner on the nut and try and simulate that pressure, go full torque in the recommended pattern, no sealant on the gasket, and always new washers, yokes, studs, and nuts. I do however use nickle based anti seize on the nuts, washers and yokes.

If it is the stock turbo then 12psi is where I'd leave it, you will notice that after 6ooorpm it will fall of to around 7psi as it approaches redline.

I wonder how much different they are from the stainless Deatscheworks... http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb26dett-skyline/1989-2002-rb26dett/1200cc-fuel-injectors-6-detail http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb26dett-skyline/1989-2002-rb26dett/1500cc-fuel-injectors-8-detail

I bought the 2CO and it came in at just under $500 without display!!! Wish I'd ponnied up the extra $150 and got the 3A2 that has 4 thermocouple inputs, logging and built in USB port, but still no display. Those prices on their website do not include GST, shipping or the serial to usb adapter you will need for the "cheap" units They really need to update the 3A2, you should be getting 8 thermo inputs for that price.

Hope you have a big wallet, they're friggin expensive.

Techedge use the bosch LSU 4.9 Mines been in the car for 2 years now and works very well indeed. http://wbo2.com/3a1/default.htm

they should of had a silicone ptfe base grease applied on installation, you can give them a squirt silicone spray but this will only last a week or two before they are heard again

do the comp test and see how many are buggered, you could get lucky and just need one piston and a set of rings

Go post in the NZ forums and see if there is anyone near you how has an rb20 in good working order and is prepared to help you fault find. Then you can start swapping bits over in a process of elimination. there's a fellow in the forced induction forum that sell his own design triggers, he's one option, but first have you to make sure that the cas is the fault.

I used to be a fan of tint when younger, the darker the better, but now I wouldn't consider it, the R32 has a awful blind spot already, tint will just make it worse.

Tell them not to connect up the turbo timer function, they're a waste of time and illegal, just another thing you will not need to fix if you decide to sell her.

yeah thats why I suggested squirting the freeze spray up the bolt hole, it will shrink the crank a little away from the the balancer

get an alarm system, dash mat, and use a sun reflecta on your windscreen when parked up outside you have a good dash pad so may as well keep it good, mine has just started to bubble in the vinyl and I'm pissed orf about it.

give it a go with the breaker bar, high tensile bolts and a can of freeze-orf spray the freeze shit into the crank bolt hole and nowhere else,

what sort of puller are you using, claw type or bolt type?

when you did the pressure test and it popped out the dip stick, its a good indication you will have stuff-all compression in one or more cylinders