Missileman

betcha you will never make it to 400hp

what cable are you using ? my cheap ebay connector had a wiring error and would through the hicas light and make the steering go heavy when connected.

dyno is just a tuning tool. your lap time or ET/mph is where its at

Lag is only a state of mind ...if you have the right gear

I'll put that in the post tomorrow for you.

thought it was you do you still want me to post it?

Sold

Sold

my r32gtst doesn't either

Also check your recirculation valve is closing properly, take it off and lghtly lube the shaft and piston with a smidgen of moly grease.

Kinugawa billet wastegate actuator with 1Bar spring installed $110 delivered or $100 pickup Brisbane southside 4113. Designed to bolt straight onto a R33 gtst turbo, new unused only test fitted to my RB20 turbo, have decided to go a different route, so save yourself 20-30 bucks and buy mine. Cheers Mike. Photos of actual item...

Kinugawa billet wastegate actuator with 1Bar spring installed $110 delivered or $100 pickup Brisbane southside 4113. Designed to bolt straight onto a R33 gtst turbo, new unused only test fitted to my RB20 turbo, have decided to go a different route, so save yourself 20-30 bucks and buy mine. Cheers Mike. Photos of actual item...

what waste gate actuator are you using?

Any decent tuner would have dropped the exhaust after the dump... its the first port of call after an unexpected result.

cost benefit analysis of changing to -5s on a RB30/26 than changing to -9s

http://nissan.epcdata.ru/skyline/hcr32/3875-rb20dt/engine/144/?frame_no=HCR32-053946

I will add, besides the studs replace the yokes, washers and nuts too, I had quite a few of the stainless conical washers that were cracked in half. Also I was talking stock engine, so once you start winding in some boost, manifold and turbine temps go up and the heat expansion will be greater, so they may only last 40 000k Another thing, when studs break in the alloy head, the part of the stud which comes away, nearly always takes the last one or two threads with it, don't panic there are plenty left, you'll junk the head before you need to worry about helicoils. You will also be tempted to over tighten the nuts which is a bad idea, as it will stop the exhaust manifold from sliding over the washers and yokes and put more stress on the studs. I use a open end / ring spanner (the ring end has offset) to tighten them, the open end will just fit the 1/2 inch drive of a Tension wrench, so set the torque you require and feel with you hands how much force is required through the spanner to reach the setting, then try and replicate that exact force when tightening up the manifold, you will be surprised how little force is required.

My 80000K original 32 gtst had metal fatigue in number 1 and 6 but only broke when I removed the manifold, so I would be confident the new ones will last a similar time.

To be harsh to Nissan AU...

To be fair to the workshop, all they would have done is ring their local Nissan spare parts and get a quote, then add on their standard hourly rate, God knows what Nissan would wand for a coil pack. I just got a quote from them for a couple of front steering rack boot kits. Cheeky kents wanted $162 for two. Amayam had them for $30 each plus $7 postage.

1 Hour labor + http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-coil-pack-individual-nissan-skyline-r34-20gt-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-gtv-p-1164.html or a 4 week wait from UAE... http://www.amayama.com/search?address=5470&q=22448AA100