Missileman

must be too embarrassing to mention

Go with deastchwerks, they're bosch ev14s, high impedance and drop in fit for the RB20 http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb20det/1989-94-rb20det

Why not give a tuner a call? explain exactly what you want them to do, surely they wont charge you more than $20 for a 5 minute job.

Forum rules state you need to advertise a price, also your location would be helpful.

frrrk he draws freehand better than I can with setsquare and compass

Maldonado reminds me of a young Gordon tallis.

Ok thanks for that.

How did you check the voltage? where do put the probes from the multimeter?

if it's not broken then don't fix it!

would be good to try another ecu, if your tuner has one on hand, there could be issues with the injector driver circuit???? fuel pressure is a longshot too, as you would think it would show up in the A/F ratio.

This ^^^^

my uneducated logic tells me to check fuel pressure, air temp before and after IC, then exhaust temp, given you have already checked base and cam timing and injector flow.

that's to move it out of park without putting your foot on the brake/ switch.

Are the studs that hold the turbo on the same size as the manifold studs?

Take out the white plastic cable end from the cluster and clean it up to inspect for damage, if its cracked around the end where it grips the steel inner cable then that's most likely the problem. If it is not cracked then the inner cable itself might be broken. Removal of the cable is not too difficult, but you need to be able to put the car on stands to crawl underneath. When you are reinstalling and removing the cable try not bend it around tight curves too much, other than that, it pretty much strait forward procedure. If it is the white plastic cable end that is cracked, it can be repaired.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414639-speedo-not-working/#entry6646661 Though I said to use super glue, slow cure epoxy would be better, as this repair failed after 12 months, but with epoxy its still going strong.

so take your pump out and shine a light down there and if there is shit at the bottom suck it out with a syphon if you have a an issue, ffs make sure what it is!

schitt that ugly !

http://youtu.be/PAIxeQUSg-Q

remove the mounting bracket, then position the compressor and then reattach the bracket, you may also need to loosen the power steering pump.

I use the standard Norma SS clamps, and they're soo much stronger/ better than the perforated Nissan/ Tridon clamps http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150968811647?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

The rough running is typical of sticking injectors, regular use of injector cleaner will help.

Metal box is the over speed warning, Makes "ding ding" sound when you drive above 100kph

Surely you must sleep???

I usually let mine drain over night.

I don't give a fcuk at 200 if you don't have balance ypu are fcuked!