Missileman

Yeah the stock look is what I want, and as this for an RB20 with the stock turbo hi flowed, peak power should be under 200kw, I've even considered anodizing instead of the black paint. That sure is some tidy work, you don't live in Brisbane by any chance? Have had a brief go on tig welder myself and can appreciate your work.

Very tempted to try out one of these ebay coolers and have custom pipework done. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120526153349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Cheers mate I'll give that a go.

Ahh OK they didn't show in my initial search... http://justjap.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1

That's what I'm talking about, pity there's not much for an R32.

Excellent much appreciate that, I was even considering and aftermarket gtr f-bar but that was a last resort, as I don't like gtst's pretending to be gtrs. Mike.

Ouch! Thanks.

I'm after one myself, do you mind telling me the price you got it for? PM me if your don't want to disclose it publicly. Cheers, Mike.

Hmm pulling shite apart is a sickness I've been fighting 46 years now, without successes. just need to add a bit Dow corning silicon grease and I'll feel a little better.

Has anyone done a combination of adjustable caster arms and urethane bushes? I know there are Superpro adjustable bushes, but the off center pin arrangement seems quite crude and imprecise, would not the variable length rod and urethane bush be a better alternative? seems everyone and their dog does adjustable pillow balls.

Both of mine work fine, touch wood, whats involved with dis-assembly and lubing?

Nope, I have a 1990 HCR32 that only done 60K and I'm in the process of selling another with similar mileage. Imported by a family member from Japan 10 years ago, and have been is storage since.

Does the Dynagrip completely harden? The d-mastic forms a skin but remains soft, so you can remove the the parts at a later date. My tail light will need to be removed in 6 months when I re-paint the o'l girl.

I'm also interested to know about this too, please report back on the cost of your repair. Cheers Mike.

Well getting the tail light assembly out was the difficult part, unscrewed the nuts but left them still attached to the studs so I could apply force with a socket driver. It took quite a bit of effort to break the seal from the old caulking compound, but once started the rest soon followed. Cleaned the old stuff off with a credit card and mineral turps. Then reapplied new sealant (Selley's D-Mastic) to the tail light assembly and also applied a bead to the body work, and screwed it all together, took less than an hour.

I'm going to remove and clean the assembly around the bodywork and re-seal it with something that remains soft an tacky like what was use at the factory. I have a panel beater mate, so I'll take over his place, he'll have something for it. Silicon adhesive might be bitch if you need to remove the light later on.

Bit of a thread dig.... but after all this rain we've had lately I just notice the swimming pool that was once my boot. Ripped out all the lining and and took out the drain plugs. Once it was all dry I closed the boot lid and soaked around the tail lights with the garden hose then opened it up to see where it was coming from. Culprit was the seal around the drivers side tail light assembly, Mike.

I have a genuine Nissan RB belt that was just removed last week, next to the Nissan writing is printed BANDO STS. So I would assume Bando are the OEM manufactures for Nissan. Should be able to source a genuine timing belt from your local Nissan dealer, the bearings you can get from ebay the water pump from Just"]Just Jap, get an idea of what it will all cost including postage etc, and see if you can haggle with the Nissan dealer, they always charge a little more for walk-ins. For example I phoned them and asked for a price on fuel filter, got a quote for $30, when I walked in a day later they tried to charge me $40 WTF... soon had them handing it over for the right price. Do not be afraid from saying hey I can get it off ebay for xxxx.

Cheers for that Chris, much appreciated.

Yeah you mentioned it in another thread, I'm very keen to see your results, manifold pressure v rpm. My RB20 is mated to a auto trannie so any lag is double trouble for me, to be honest if I could make 160kw at the wheels without any extra lag I would be happy, if it comes on boost earlier than stock I would be over the moon. Mike.

Do you still have the "jack and Tool Set" ????

You can't have your cake and eat it too... That's the choice I'll have to make in about 6 months, but as my car won't be doing any track work the decision is easier to make, still the lure of 300hp at the wheels is very tempting.

That would be making close to 300kw at the flywheel, not bad for 2.0L engine. I wonder what sort of improvement could be made between 2-4000 RPM with different cams and adjustable cogs? Would Poncams help down there, or would they only benefit the top end?

Check your local nissan dealer and ebay for genuine parts, you can save a few dollars if want... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320831811189?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-NISSAN-R32-R33-R34-SKYLINE-RB20DET-TIMING-BELT-IDLER-TENSIONER-SERVICE-KIT-/360425538713?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb094499

lol