Shoujiki

Hey guys, Got this awesome stainless manifold for sale. I had bought with intention of using it obviously however plan has changed and i don't need it anymore. Low mount, T3 flange, in great condition and as far as I know, never used (got it off another member here). Certainly no carbon in it. $140 and come pick it up. Dandenong Area. Cheers! Kurt

Chasing one of these..anyone in Vic i can pickup? Postage could be ok too but prefer pickup. Cheers

Hey do you have the rear view mirror? If so price and postage to 3175 plz.

Hey guys, Moving the battery to the boot, and wanted to fill the space with a catch can and overflow tank in the one unit. Seen these many times on cars, however a lot seem to be custom. Does anyone have something to suit? Even maybe from an R33, which could be pretty similar. Let me know what you have! Thanks. Kurt.

Thank you GTSBoy.

Thread dig... Can i remove the TCS butterfly (2 screws) with no ill effects to the ECU? I have the TCS auto turn off each time anyway, but don't want the system to throw a code. Can't imagine it would, but just wanted to check!

Has any one got one of these in new/near new condition? Doesn't have to have the vehicle gaskets, but one off a Z32 AFM would be great. Prefer VIC pickup with cash, but open to others if available. Thanks!

They look like they would yeah. Actually fabbed it myself. So just the cost of some 3 mm flat bar in mild steel. Modified Chinese universal rail. It was to "suit" R34 GT-T, and it did bolt in! However your head would touch the roof essentially! So all the flanges were cut off and the frame trimmed down and re-welded to sit as low as is possible without modifying the floor pan. The passenger side cannot sit as low as the drivers side since the floor has a large bulge in the RH rear area. However it's still much lower than stock with the Gias seats. Also I extended the seat belt bracket on the rail to be 5 cm higher too, as it feels like its too far down on the Bride/Uni Rails. I can show you some quick snaps of the modded rails if you like.

You literally need every little bit you can to get the seat down low, especially on the passenger side. Any adapter will make you sit on the roof. Only 2 options would be get just the MO type rail (check it out to see what it looks like first too, as it may still sit you kind of high). Or, get one fabbed, which is what I did with my Gias II's, and it now sits lower than standard seats.

Found and done. Thanks

Haha Ok sounds like a plan! Thank you very much gents.

Completely stock. This looks like the first major service it's had in a long time. Certainly hasn't had any "engine work" as such. I just hope there hasn't been some drastic adjustments made in the ECU with the daughter board it has. Doubtful though as it seems to be a pretty basic chip anyway.

Well i don't know what to do. The right thing to do is put it at the right marker. It is supposed to be on that really. From what i've read, i cannot see why anyone would want to advance the exhaust on a NEO by that much. Most say they lost significant power when adjusted outside of 0.

Well you have a point. We know that the timing should be on the mark, so really, i should just put it back on that marker. Also most people suggest that the NEO doesn't do much outside of the 0 mark anyway, so having the gear would be pointless? Ahh I dunno what to do now haha! I don't think the adjustable gear (Tomei) would give me enough adjustment anyway to go back to "one tooth out" would it?

Yeah it's a real strange one. I have a timing light so that is no problem to check after. I've sourced an adjustable cam gear so i'll pop that in with it set to 0.. install the CAS at the same mark and see what it times at and adjust to 15 degrees if it's out. Would still love to know if it was a mistake or not... as you said, everything points to retarding it for any purpose.. but not advancing.

The CAS was slightly twisted, see attachment. Looks pretty much like everyone else's that I've looked at. Doesn't seem to be so far out it would be compensating for anything.

Here are some close up images with the stock belt still on. Haven't removed tensioner at all, this is how it was when I took the timing cover off. Surely this isn't the right thing to have done, every thread i read suggests that 1 tooth is far to much to be of use and actually will kill engine power. Inlet and Crank line up perfectly.

Hey guys, I know this has been said to death about how to setup timing and all that, searched around and found a lot of info, but nothing definitive to this question i have. Doing a 100k service, timing belt etc on my RB25 NEO. Upon taking the covers off and winding the engine over clockwise many times and double, triple and quadruple checking the timing marks, it would seem the exhaust cam gear is out by 1 tooth in the clockwise direction (i think advanced?). I haven't taken the belt off or anything as yet, trying to make sure I get it all spot on when putting back together. Is this a trick that some tuner has done for more power? The car has some odd daughter board in the ECU and was "tuned" by Dr Drift. Could they have done this to improve something? Should i put it back the same way? Thanks, Kurt.

Does anyone have one they would like to move on? Thanks, Kurt.

Hey guys, as title suggest, i'm after a set of these, if anyone has a set laying around, let me know. I will be painting them so as long as they are not scratched to deep or cracked/broken, then all good. In Victoria, so pickup is much preferred! Will come ASAP if you have a set, any time. Thanks, Kurt.. Reply here or SMS on 0419 38 Seven 31 Three. Thanks.

9.5 +15 on the front will not fit without scrubbing. You'd need wide guards atleast. I'm running 8.5 +30 with the same size tyre and it fits perfectly. In fact Nismo recommend an 8.5/+30 for the GTT.

I think it is, he mentioned in the last post that he had kits on hand locally ready to buy/ship.

Try this mate, http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454419-east-bear-r34-coupe-body-kit-fiberglass-group-buy/

Bump!

Bump!