Shoujiki

Bump! Make an offer guys, this is useless to me. Need funds for my next project!

Has anyone anymore info on this? Still keen to get this working as it's the only thing on the car that doesn't function correctly!

^ If you have a GTT, you need to trim off some of the pedal (after you remove the old plastic cover of course). I took about 10mm off the top left edge and files it down, painted it and then the GTR pedal cover went on nicely. There must be a difference between BNR and ER 34 accell pedal's.

The response by NATAS was fairly epic lol, Thanks for taking the time to write all that up! Forgot about this thread, but in any case, i found the issue a while back... the sensor is installed in the wrong pipe,. I've got it in the pipe that comes out of the turbo to the inlet of the cooler. Hence the temprature being higher and it going up whenever boost is reached. My bad, but still works great and is quite accurate to the relative outside temperature at rest. So i use it more as a guide as to the intake temps. Be good to get another sensor maybe and put it in the outlet pipe, and have a switch to go between the two.

Bump!

Price drop $150 Bump! No one wants this awesome bit of kit? No more hacking of ECU wiring!

Thanks mate, I think it looks real clean. Was tossing up between red or something else, thought the red may detract from the clean silver scheme of my car. Your's looks tops with the dark car colour though! Were the Type NS one up or down from the B-Specs? So far so good with this setup. No noise and the braking is amazing compared to what it was before, and i thought that was good haha!

Not at all really. Turns in like it's on rails. Also have Whiteline F+R adjustable sway bars and Tein Super Street coils in it, so that may help. If you look on the Nismo website under applications for the LMGT4 wheel, the specs I have is what Nismo recommend as perfect fit and performance for the RWD platform.

Thanks Xtaoi. Your wheel choice will fit perfectly without any issues. It's the same specs as what I run. I used 235 up front and 265 at the rear.

Quick pic to show the finished setup.

Thought i'd share my experience here after doing the brakes on my car. Ended up with DBA 4000 Series T3 Club Spec Slotted Front and Rear rotors. And put on Project Mu B-Spec Pads. I rebuilt both front and rear calipers and of course painted them up in a nice silver/alloy. Came up brand new. Impressions are fantastic. Braking is extremely strong and I haven't even tested it fully yet as it's still bedding in (gentlish on the first 500km). But a few moderate stops i've done from 60-0, it almost feels like the car just stops on itself. Great friction and pedal feel. And best thing of all, absolutely no noise whatsoever. Not one peep. I'd highly recommend this setup for a street car.

Looks like a set of Nismo LM GT1's. Not sure where you get them as they are an old wheel. Maybe a classic jap parts importer or the like?

Thanks GTR_JOEY. I'll be going Genuine Nissan i think as you say. Lasts the distance and look stock/not too leary. Full street car so no need to upgraded hoses for the sake of upgraded hoses. Cheers for your advice.

Any more thoughts on this?

Hey guys, after a set of these if someone has a set laying around unused. Would love Victoria location so I can come pickup ASAP.

It's what should happen by the way your testing it yes, so perfectly normal. It means that there was pressure in there. Because of the way your testing it with the intake pipe/pcv, you may get leaks from areas that don't see boost, like the cam cover seals.

^ lol. Good excuse to get in there and polish it all up! I have a 'automotive stethoscope'. Works pretty good. Just basically ear muffs with tubes plumbed into them. Great to find little noises, check injector ticking etc.

Here's mine. Will get some other shots up at some stage, couldn't shoot the rear as the camera battery died!

^ I too used soapy water in a sprayer bottle. Was almost required really. Some of them you can hear but really hard to pinpoint when your hunting around the car. Most of mine were found with soapy water.

I did my test with with the "tester" attached to the AFM inlet, i.e. using the stock rubber inlet pipe. It doesn't split, or leak. Keep in mind that doing it this way means that you fill the cam covers with pressure too (as the crankcase vent goes to the inlet tube). So any leaks in that area (not normally pressurized like this) will show up. A 12V compressor will be fine. The voltage the compressor runs on has nothing to do with it. If it can fill a car tire with air, it can pump 15-20 PSI into the intake. Albeit, maybe a bit slower than a "big" compressor that can run at 100-120 PSI (like mine does). If your getting no pressure build up at all (even 1 PSI?) then you have a leak. Find it, fix it, and test again until the system can hold pressure for a reasonable amount of time. ^ EDIT: Having the oil filter cap off will bleed out all the pressure, as your using the stock inlet pipe pressurized, so all the pressure will bleed out the crankcase vent hose, and out the oil filler cap. When mine was pressurized, when i took the filler cap off, it made a nice woosh sound and the pressure went to 0.

Yeah exactly. Technically the covers should be sealed .. so that wold explain the oil weep/leak i have at the back of the motor Yup if you were to do it that way, it would overcome these 2 issues!

Now that I think of it, because i'm pressuring part of the intake that never sees boost (ie pre turbo inlet side), i wonder if theres a hose/line connection somewhere there that's going off to the intake/valve cover area, like crankcase breather. So in normal boosting/driving conditions, there would be no boost in the valve cover area. Edit: Just had a look. That is indeed what the noise is. On the stock intake rubber pipe, there's 2 ports coming off it. One goes to the crankcase breather on the valve cover. The other goes to the turbo recirculation valve. So normally that pipe would never see boost pressure like that, as both ports are pre turbo, just after the MAF. I bet if i took off the hose on the breather and blocked it off, it would hold pressure.

Faulty PCV perhaps?

Ok so i found the "air leak". It seems to be coming from the valve cover? I have an oil weep back there somewhere, so perhaps it's coming out of that area? If I take the oil cap off, all the pressure releases straight away. Would having a weep like that really affect the car? I guess the pressure has to go somewhere. Took it for a quick drive and boy what a difference. It actually boosts to 0.92bar now, never done that before. And the boost ramp is so strong, really kicks you back. Also no misfire at idle with an open filter like I had before.