Shoujiki

Thanks guys for your help. Yeah smoke test seems a bit much at this stage, i don't really want to spend as such (hence me making up this great idea, thanks Hanaldo for your thread btw!). I'll try a bit more pressure and go from there. If i really can' find it today then i'll just leave it and see how it goes. I'm curious to see how it will drive now with all these little leaks fixed. My target boost pressure is 11psi so i may try to get to that. Yeah Scotty i think that dodgy stock pipe would explode at that pressure! It will be great to get that changed out to an alloy one. And yes i'll watch the end cap, it was that hard to get in there in the first place, and i used a hose clamp too, so hopefully it's nice and tight! Again, thanks guys.

Well this wont hold anything for more than say, 20-30 seconds now. It's a lot better now that i've gone through and found the other leaks. But this one is certainly letting air out. The engine has a Greddy Profec 2 Spec B controller, i checked the solenoid connections and all seems good in that area. This hiss is coming from near the back of the motor, sort of where the boost pressure sensor is, but it doesn't seem to be that.

Yeah that is true. When i'm pumping it up with 5psi, the intake hose is expanding! Quite funny to watch. Interestingly i had to reseal the MAF top with silicon as it was leaking too! So i tried the gear/push thing, doesn't seem to change it. Same exact hiss, same area. How fast should the pressure drop off once it's at 5-6 psi?

Ok i'll try that, i figured it might have been something like that. I'm testing with 5-6psi, really no need to go anymore as you'll hear air hissing at that pressure. 5 psi is a lot of pressure. My thinking was also, using this type of testing, your applying positive pressure to the "intake" side of the turbo, which normally is sucking. So that means the MAF and all that is seeing positive pressure. Which isn't a normal thing for it. I'd be weary about applying 20psi to it.

Hey guys, So i made up a boost leak tester as per another thread I came across. Pod filter adapter, pvc end cap and air compressor tyre valve. Worked great! I had 5 leaks I identified. At the beginning it wouldn't hold pressure for more than 1 second. Now raising it to 5 psi, it will hold for at least 15-20 seconds, slowly dropping off. I can still hear 1 air leak. It's coming from down near the exhaust/back of the engine. I've checked all the hoses at the top and they seem to be ok, soapy water shows no bubbles. My question is, is it normal for it to taper off boost within that time? Could the noise i'm hearing be the air coming from engine out into the dump pipe? Doesn't sound muffled, but it's the only thing I can think of. Cheers

Never mind! Ended up making up my own. Cheers.

Does anyone have a new one of these in Vic that I can pickup SE Suburbs? Before I go buying/shipping in a new one from Kudos. Part #: 23785-AA001 http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-iacv-aac-valve-gasket-genuine-nissan-skyling-r34-25gtt-stagea-wc34-series-rsv-rsfour-rb25det-neo-p-1249.html Cheers.

Edit: Double Post

That video is insane. I can't help but burst out laughing.

Also, how does a damaged VCT module affect static compression testing and leak down results?

^ I looked it up, and most people that actually real world tested it said 63 +/- 1.5cc. But for the sake of calculation, using 70cc spits out 8.02:1. Again with 0mm deck clearance.

I calculate it to 9.01:1 with the assumption of cylinder head volume of 63cc and 0mm deck clearance.

Well that might be my issue then. You'd think Nissan could have made an accurate system to begin with! Only reason I got this sensor was because I knew it would interface with the MFD correctly. I wonder how installing an aftermarket sensor would go. Keep in mind that this is being displayed on an MFD, I wonder if the MFD itself is at partial fault in the way it interprets it? Really at the mercy of the electronics in this situation ai. As stated, the only way to really know is to install a proper accurate sensor and logger and check, at least to give an indication that it's "working as it should". I'd expect the engine to not being running correctly (detonation, doughy feel) with temps entering the intake that high.

According to the R34 workshop manual, the power windows have a limit switch that senses excessive current draw, foreign objects etc. It states that any of the following could cause the window to stop "150mm" from the top of the window travel: - Limit Switch (Faulty) - Limit Switch (Out of Adjustment) - Limit Switch Circuit - Power Window Motor encoder - Foreign objects in track - Excessive abrasion and deformation on window seal, weatherstrip or track.

Thanks for the replies guys, really good info. GTSBoy, AFAICT there is no anomalies in the intercooler setup in terms of flow or restriction issues. It's a fairly standard type install, nothing out of the ordinary. The car runs great and doesn't feel doughy really at all. I got the GTR sensor because I knew it would function with the MFD correctly. Easy enough to change, but i'd have to check up on the resistances and compare to see if the MFD could interpret it correctly. The piping heat soak issue is a really valid point. After a long drive, you would indeed expect the surround metal to influence the value. The way I have this installed isn't exactly like the GTR, mines just in the pipe. The GTR has it on a flat boss section on the output of the cooler. So it could indeed be picking up soak from the metal.

How is that possible? Could it have a restriction in it? It's a proper Blitz Return Flow. Any way to test for this? The system holds boost pressure well at 0.89bar. Controlled via Profec 2 Spec B.

Hey guys, After a little advice on my intake temperatures. Few months ago installed an MFD into my R34 GTT. I used the stock GTR sensors for Exhaust and Intake. Now my car has a Blitz Return flow FMIC. To install the intake temp sensor, I drilled a hole in the "return" pipe up near where it couples to the engine bay piping and mounted it there. So tonight is about, 10 or so degrees outside. From cold start, the intake temp on the MFD reads about 15 or so. Driving around a bit, usually gets it up to about 25-35 degrees, depending on the situation. Tested with a little more throttle and if boosting for a while it got up to 80 or so degrees. That seems quite high to me. Thinking about it, the turbo is sucking air in through the intake (stock airbox), "compressing it", running it out and through the I/C, and back to the throttle body. So i assume it's going to be hotter when on boost, as the turbo is hot, so it'll be heating the fresh air charge. But that hot? The air that the intake plenum is seeing is 80 degrees that means. Seems too high. What would cause such a high temp? Cheers, Kurt

Most welcome Chris.

Chris, see attached image file. I copied this right from the Nissan R34 GTR Supplemental Manual. It has all the trouble shooting stuff and pinout for the MFD. Maybe it makes more sense than the HK translated one to you.

Around 82-84 when idling for me. I've seen it at 87 or so last time I took it through the mountains up hill etc. But it is winter/cool here so might be different in Summer. It's consistent with my ECUTalk display readout.

Bump! This is hard to find in Australia!

The sensors won't register at 0 value. You a required to drive the car around for a decent time for them to reach their minimum readings (in diag mode). Exhaust is 400c and Intake will be 5c. Once both of them are lit up green, shut the car off and restart. They should re-appear in the normal mode then.

If the car has been sitting for 2 years with fuel in it, do not "top it up". Drain and purge the system and refill with fresh petrol.

Chris, There is no way to show RPM on the unit itself. The RPM input is used to trigger (at a desired point) the REV shift light on the unit. Let me know if you have any questions as I have just finished installing one of these (properly) into my GTT.

My gear, radio surround and ashtray i painted in titanium silver, just for effect. But the rest of the plastics that has that "coating" like the power window controls and hvac unit i just metho'ed it off clean. Looks fine just as normal black plastic.