Shuyin

Pulled to cover of my ECU, looked at the box for a while then thought it was too hard so went and watched TV

Thats that last resort, I would have to baby it around in the meantime. Had a chat with Glen from ESP, man really knows his stuff, told me to check to see if the corner of the plug for the PFC had lifted, that can cause errors, and to confirm that the PFC is the correct model for the car. So looks like I need to plug the ATTESA back in and give in a go.

Unfortunetly my skills really don't streach far enough to fix this, so looks like I'll give glen a call.

Heard that it could have something to do with the PFC sending to much voltage to the TPS causing the car to think that the throttle is wide open

Builder confirmed that no wires were taken out of the TPS

So finaly got the GTR back after 7 months off the road. Now the 4WD is shot (see thread here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/415377-help-r33-gtr-v-spec-locked-in-4wd/page__pid__6663259#entry6663259) So does anyone know anyone in Canberra who knows this system?

I will check tonight. I'm thinking that it might be an issue with the TPS?

So I recently installed an Power FC into my 1996 R33 GTR V-Spec, works like a dream. I was driving it home from the tuners and started to get a little load in the wet, it was normal so I kept on going. The next day when I went to reverse the car there was a ton load in the transfer case and the front Torque gauge was sitting on 30! So put the car up on stands and sure enough the car was locked in 4wd. When I disconnected the pump at the connector and bled the actuator at the back of the transfer, it allowed the front wheels to turn on their own, so transfer case and hydraulics work. The cylinder also moved fine. So summary is that the ATTESA system will pressurise, causing the transfer case to engage, but will not depressurise, causing it to stay locked in 4wd. There was no warning light on the dash. Bleeding the system causes the transfer case to disengage. I have done some searching and ruled out the following: The tires and wheels are the same diameter with similar wear. The system is pressurising so the pump is fine. I checked the plugs that connect the pump to the loom and they were fine, no corrosion. Transfer case is working, so haven't cooked the clutch pack. Any solutions or if anyone else has had this problem please let me know. Thanks Shaun

Agree with 'Kat on this, you want a stronger box go aftermarket, although I don't know if the GETRAG 6 speeds are any better....

Well its a new block, thank god the head was fine. So got a nismo clutch, CP pistoms, Ross balancer, some -7s with HKS actuators and should be back on the road soon

I had mine for a few months and blew the oil pump. That was in April. I still don't have the car back yet. Cooked the pistons, bearings, cracked the block, blew the turbos, clutch and 4th gear. And the pump came out in seven pieces Found out then that the thermostat was shot, the harmonic balancer had been welded on and that an RB26 is the hardest engine to work on. Then got taken for a ride by the mechinist..... But almost done!

Get a set of pliers, put them right behind the restricter and just push down on the hose until the restrictor moves up the hose. Move up the hose an repeat until it comes out. Save the restrictor, DO NOT THROW IT OUT. You might find that the increased boost leads to misfiring, so keep the restrictor to put back in if that happens (Obviously get this misfire issue fixed if that happens).

Rule 1: Don't feed the Troll

And the different Compression shouldn't be an issue?

There is a commodore with "Floyd" on a pink plates,

So quite simple, who has the coolest numberplate, removing the (no doubt unstoppable) discussion on if having a personalised numberplate makes you a knob. My plates read BCNR33. Got them with the car.

Spotted myself entering the final stages of the build for the GTR, almost 4 months with a car make shaun go crazy *twitch*

Thats is an option but a base map would help.

The mad scientist suggested that I get a map that had a 9:1 compression ratio, I've got 200kms to travel to get there so i just need a map that will get me there

I am looking for a tuning map for a R33 GTR running a Apexi Power FC. Will be using a laptop for the tunning. My GTR has had the following installed: Garret 2860-7 with HKS Actuators 9:1 CP Pistons 4 inch exaust from the Cat Its running stock injectors, fuel pump ect. I am just looking for a map that has the correct details to work from, obviously every car is different and needs fine tuning. I have searched SAU and while there are some great tips (Looking at you Paul), I haven't found any actual map files. Any help would be appriciated.

That 'shuddering' at 5000 RPM is probably the car mis-firing. Mine did the same thing when I removed the boost restrictor. So try new sparkplugs first and if that doesn't do it then maybe coilpacks?

You 'undertook' him? I just normaly stick to overtaking, safer that way

I had 10% on my GTR when I bought it, absoulte pain in the ass. Just get it done legal mate, looks 100% and you don't have to worry about being defected for it. Though cops might try too anyway

Also could be the sparkplugs are on the way out, but as above try not the boost the car while its cold.

I've seen the fog lights you are talking about. Now Im not too sure if they are factory or not but it looks like most people mount them infront of the intercooler.Leaves drill holes everywhere.