Gt-r_James

Ok so I've just ran the ATTESSA diagnostics for the computer in the boot and got error codes 11 & 13; 11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit 13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2. Can anyone suggest what I should do next? I have adjusted the voltages in the G-sensor underneath the centre console(all within coohee of 2.5V), is there a second G-sensor that needs adjusting, it has been referred to in other posts on SAU that there is one behind the dash/glove box. This is becomming very frustrating! I have also read on SAU that adjusting the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) voltages, and cleaning/checking each wheels ABS sensor may correct the problem, does anyone have experience with these methods? Thanks in advance

Hey, appologies for the novcie question but how does one measure and if need be correct the TPS voltages. I recently bought an automotive multimeter to adjust the volatges of the G-sensor, I did this and it didn't prevent the 4WD and ABS lights from staying on. Detailed descriptions, pics, or whatever would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance

I had another go today and got 2.5V for all of them, to no avail. Will tomorrow do further diagnostics. To answer the above questions 1) it was oscilating between 2.48-2.53 ish, this only happend when the engine was running, I presume due to vibration? I was able to get 2.5 exaclty by having the ignition on all the way before kicking the starter motor over 2) the lights are off longer than before (subjective opinion) , but still come on, Bastards! Will keep y'all posted if I make any developments.

Ok brains trust lend me your ears! The Gt-r that I recently bought has a crappy Calibre atmo BOV from Supercheap, only one, there is a metal cover plate bolted onto the second factory flange. I have some basic questions that some of you guys can probably help me understand. 1) How does a single BOV cope with the pressure, I read that a single BOV on an RB26DETT will cause a 'flutter', this I have not heard 2) The BOV is 'adjustable' I can turn the head of it clockwise to make (something) "hard" or anticlockwise for "softer". What does this refer to? 3) How difficult would it be to pipe it back into the system? I don't really want an atmo BOV so if anybody has a factory BOV let me know Thanks

Just realised that the G-sensor under the centre console is the 'lateral G-sensor' so ignore aspects of previous post.

Thanks your intructions made it very easy. The problem is though that the lights are still there. before adjusting the voltages they were all over the place (2.03-2.85), after a bit of fiddling I got them within a 2.50V ballpark (2.48-2.52), i wanted 2.50v exactly but the values keep oscillating evening when I wasn't adjusting the pots. Is it time to adjust the lateral G-sensor under the dash or should I try and get 2.50V from the central sensor? The funny thing is though after turning the engine on the ABS and 4WD lights went off for 1-2seconds then came back on. odd Any advice will be appreciated I'm starting to think that I should stuck with carburetter cars

I now have an automotive multimeter and plan to do the voltage drop test described on page one. I haven't done this test before and want to be clear on some things relating to the picture Jeff posted with the instructions. The picture of the G-sensor circuit board on page one has three yellow circles, when 'adjusting the pots' in red circles I have the black lead of the multimeter on a single yellow circled point for each adjustment. Please correct me if I'm mistaken What I am confused about is the description "voltage between the car body and three yellow pins", does the multimeters red wire attach to the car body, essentially grounding it or to the positive terminal of the battery as I anticipated? I'd like to do the adjustment in the next couple of days so let me know

Hey, I'd like to replace the two GFB atmo BOVs that came with my Gt-r for a factory plumb back unit. Let me know how much you want or maybe we could swap the BOVs PM me Thanks, James

Hopefully one of you can offer some advice because the AC in my 32R is becomig at major pain in the ass. So, the AC wasn't working when I bought the car (no surprise) and I've since set about fixing it. There is heaps of gas in the system, the clutchfan engages and the compressor works (according to my mechanic), I looked under the dash for a no-functional motor thingy but a previous owner had cable tied the two electricl joints that apparently play up. The climate control unit is functional but had no effect whatsoever on the air temp. After taking my car to my mechanic for a timing belt/water pump change I asked him to have a quick look. He said that a fuse was blown and even when replaced the AC still wasn't cold. The funny thing is though when I drove home I had a toggle of some buttons and presto! icey air. This lasted 40mins until I smelt plastic smoke, freaked out and switch the stereo and AC off. The smoke quickly dissapeared. When I pulled the lower dash out at home I saw that a fuse (I presume the replaced one) had melted and the baord around it had heat warped as well. Is there likely to be a short somewhere in the circuit or was the fuse type inappropriate (15 I believe)? Any suggestions on what i should do next to diagnose/fix the problem? or should I bite the bullit and visit an auto-electrcian. Thanks If it helps i can upload a picture of the fried fuse

Thanks Jeff, I'll buy a multimeter this week and detail what results. I only removed the G-sensor under the sensor console, is there a chance the lateral G-sensor has crapped itself and results in the ABS & 4WD lights being on? If so I'll take that one out and look for capacitor leakage. Echoing words of previous members I'm very keen to see a replacement G-sensor for these cars, I looked at a handful of gtrs in my price range (<$15,000) before buying mine and they all had the ABS and 4WD lights on! Looking forward to more developments and having a proper Gt-r.

Maybe someone can help me out. My 32R dash has ABS and 4WD lights on that didn't go away with a reservoir flush and fluid top up. The mechanic reckons its an error 11 or 13 which is consitant with what I've read hear. I took the centre console G-sensor out this morning had a look at it however there doesn't appear to any leakage on the PCB. What should I do next? I don't mind taking it to an auto electrician but I don't want to pay through the nose for a 50cent capacitor and 10seconds of soldering. I split my time between the Central Coast and Sydney BTW so any recommended autoelecs? I'va attached pics of what my G-sensor looks like-

I've just had the door cards off and got the speakers working. There were two light cables (somehow connected to the alarm I assume) attached to the speakers, haning near them were some heavy audio cables, I just swapped them around and radio came through the speakers! Also there were some sweet Pioneers in there so I don't have to upgrade. I plan on using deadener on the doors for sound quality, there are cheap rolls of it on ebay. has anyone used cheap stuff? Do you 'get what you pay for' with body deadener?

It seems as though the speakers are hooked up to the security system because they make an audiable noise (crackle) when I turn the alarm on or off. They don't make a sound when I remove the head unit face

Hi guys hopefully someone can help me out with a problem I have with the two front door speakers in my 32R. I recently bought the car so I have no history of what was butchered. It has an aftermarket head unit, 6x9s in the parcel shelf and 3 fat ass audio cables going to the boot.from behind the dash. So, the problem is the front speakers do not work, even when the stereo is biased for the front only. The thing is though that when the alarm 'beeps' a sound comes out of these speakers. Any ideas about what could cause this, they must be connected to something. I plan on replaceing the factory units too, can anyone recommend a speaker/size that fit the factory attachments as I can't be bothered chopping/crafting a housing for big speakers. Thanks in advance!

$300