IMPORTS ONLY

put the TPS off a RB20DE NEO in this morning and it cleared the problem straight away, the skyline is back to normal, finally!!

you still have these?

im about to purchase some new wheels and am after some advice of other 34 owners, the rims i previously had on were F - 18x9+15 & R - 18x10+15 but they needed the rear guards rolled and more camber in the rear to sit flush and be legal (rear lip was about 20mm out) im planning to get the same size but larger offsets, F 27 & R 35 because i want to lower the car another inch or so, basically im wondering what if any advantages there are of running a higher offset compared to a smaller rim or if i should just stick with the old offset and run more camber and flair the rear guards slightly to fit them

ive only used it once, it was more a test to see if the injectors would react to it at all. not the biggest fan either tbh

and yep i have with no luck, ill have another TPS off a rb20de neo that hopefully works to try by tuesday

i just put in a working TPS from a DET NEO and now the problem is worse, is this because the TPS is different for the DET (ie its on the other side)?

nope just chuck it in

throttle position sensor, you should be able to pick up a new one for under $100

id say TPS, im having the same problem and have it down to the tps, will have a new one in later this week to confirm. cheap and easy fix if it is

ill drop it down to $14,750 as is because ive sold the craft square mirrors. not really too keen to remove many parts as i only have stock suspension for it and youd be better off keeping the teins and adjustable arms in, and unless you can BYO wheels then i can drop it to 14,000

ill try get a better video, but its just a slight popping sound and rough idle, especially when crusing

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

so after all that chasing i just put 20ml of ignition cleaner in to 3/4 a tank and immediately as soon as i left the petty station i noticed the problem was gone, took it for a good drive and noticed nothing wrong and gave it a little rev in the driveway to see if it was jumping like before and nope clean revs all the way through! im still unsure of why it was so instant, wouldn't it take a bit of driving to remove build up ect? hopefully the problem doesn't return, im still going to reset the ecu and ill daily drive it for now just to see how it goes

is there an easy way i can do it myself or do i need a mechanic with a computer to do it for me?

thinking back the issue was there before anything was replaced and its what initially made me start replacing coil packs and everything else, my next step is looking for a vacuum leak as that is very possible

cleaning out the AAC didnt change a thing, it was pretty clean anyway. and i haven't tried another AFM yet, is it worth buying one to make sure the current AFM is not at fault? and what do you mean by solder fixing my current one? and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

im going to give the AAC a good clean out today as well because ive heard that clear up similar issues

im pretty sure i can rule out the AFM, i checked it and got a mate whos a mechanic to check it again for me, but the computer trying to compensate sounds like something it could be since ive changed the spark plugs and coilpacks ive only done around 100 km's the first drive was fairly smooth, second drive i could tell straight away the problem was still there and then the most recent drive was the worst, i cant cruse in any gear but 5th above 3k revs with out the revs jumping and that was when i could notice the power dropping in and out as i would accelerate. the issue definitely seems worse when the car is cold. but yeah i will get it into my mechanics asap and see if they can get anything out of their computer and ill see if they can reflash it

i ended up getting new yellow jacket coil packs and put in new spark plugs also, but my revs are still unsteady and i can feel power dropping in and out when i slowly put my foot down basically im out of ideas as to what it could be, any more suggestions before i get my wallet raped by a mechanic

1998 R34 Nissan Skyline GT-4 ENR34 - Manual - Clean - 97,000 K’s - RWC & Rego (28/7/2014) - Serviced regularly and very well maintained - Imported late 2010 Interior - R34 factory seats - Dash mint condition - Fully functioning climate control - USB and iPod cd player. Sony Explode amp running all four 3 way in car speakers + Tweeters and a Sony Explode sub running off a Kenwood amp, all new with receipts Engine & Exhaust - Factory 5 speed manual, RB25DE NEO - 2.5" exhaust with 3 inch tip out the back - New Uprated Fuel pump (27/5/13) - New Yellow Jacket coilpacks (14/8/13) - 2 year warranty Suspension & Wheels - Tein HA Coilovers F-8KG R-6KG. Height and damper - SRI Front Upper Adjustable Camber Arms & Tension Rod Set - Work Meister Series 1 18 x 8 +30 (white wheels in pics) - Tyres 235/40 Gemstone’s with around 80% Body - Carbon GTR bonnet (Factory Made to fit GT/T) - GTR front bar with GTR lip (Factory Made to fit GT/T) - GTR vented style Front Fenders +25mm - Will come with stock mirrors not craft squares - Carbon Eyelids & Weather shields - All indicators are smoked/tinted This car is an amazing drive and im reluctant to sell. I can remove parts to make it cheaper. inspections are welcome swaps are not. i have receipts for over $20,000 including the car, buyer will not be disappointed, only thing it could do with is a buff and professional clean im after $16,000 firm as it sits with everything listed, rego and RWC can remove aftermarket parts and you BYO wheels to make it cheaper feel free to text me any time on 0422537187

sold

anyone interested in some craft square mirrors, fit all 34's mint condition with stickers $500 inc postage

mine arrived today too, thanks heaps for this

true that ill get in there asap, thanks

so far theres no actual difference in each side when i drive, everything is smooth with no clunks ect, so i guess with all the weight of the car and power steering theres no issues with restrictive movement. for the first time in a while my car actually stays straight! haha so im more then happy with the SRI parts so far, just have to wait and see how they hold up over the long run