menthol369

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Hey guys, i have a rather odd result from the dyno today. Setup is as follows stock 30 bottom end ( rings and bearings done) 660cc jecs injectors 100mmx600x300? trust FMIC z32 AFm 20det ecu with latest nistune firmware FF Freddy plenum VCT s2 r33 head 45mm hyper gate (did runs with 14.7 psi springs and new 10 psi springs, no change) Greddy profec b2 HX 35 with this supposed trim 7 blade a/r 0.89 Comp inducer 56mm comp exducer 76mm turbine inducer 69.5mm turbine exducer 60mm Turbine trim 75 Now whats happening is that the boost falls off quite fast above 5K rpm, no matter what we did we couldnt get it to boost above 12-10 psi above 5k. Tested the following Leaks in the intake ( sealed the turbo intake and pressurized to 20psi, no leaks Gate - changed to new springs (14.7psi OLD 10~ new) completely sealed the gate exhaust- would stack on boost down below 5k ( didnt over boost so dont worry) crept revs up to 5 k and slowly put foot into it- foot flat and gate closed the boost would still fall off down to 10psi at 6800rpm completely unrestricted the exhaust, ran from dump and screamer not plumber back to check for blocks, no change Basically we tested every single aspect we could to try pin point the problem, and by the looks of it its asif the turbo is running out of beans with such high flow. Thoughts? there should be the final dyno results attached. Cheers, Dan.

Right so ive attempted runnign the motor in, FIrst drive - 2nd/ 3rd gear going from 2k to 5-6K rpm, letting it decel all the way to 2 k again. did that 10 times roughly then let it cool. same again with the second drive ~~ Comp tested it as soon as i had it back in the garage and got 140 across all 1-5. battery died at 6 and only showed 120~ but thats understandable. will comp test again when the engine is cold. Now that its had about 15-20 min of driving with that penrite run in oil, should i drop it and put some mineral oil in and do abit more driving like above?

took it for its first drive last night actually, have to run it in so ill be taking it to the dyno within the month!

Do with the rpm cycles do you do that for say 15minutes at a time? Then let it cool. Rinse and repeat till compression raises?

Cheers guys this helps a lot, I'm using purpose run in oil that penrite sells, how many ks should I do before I take it back to the dyno? And I suppose once it gains compression across all cyls is when you tell its bed in. Reads 150 across all 6... Apart from cyl 3 which reads zero. But after a leakdown test the exhaust valves arnt sealing ( lifters arefresh so no oil in them yet either)

Ive just rebuilt a 25/30 with bearings and rings ( no oversize, all stock parts) im just wondering what the best method is for runnign the motor in, ive read that starting with higher rpm cycles, letting it cool and then doing lower rpm cycles is the reccomended method. The hastings box was kinda vague with " accel from 30mph to 55mph" I was hoping some guys on here with real time exp could help out. Cheers

i doubt the price will be right Lewis do sumps for 440$ and asr are almost double that so i wouldnt go over 440$ sorry bud

if he can make 420 on a 25 it will be responsive as all hell on a 3 litre and im not even aiming for that power, my only question is what are the specs of your hx35? they came out in a variety of sizes

As the title states im after a baffled sump, doesnt need to have extra capicty needs to suit rb30.

I've bought a rubber flappy thing that tomei makes, its their universal jobby. On a 25 sump the passenger side doesn't allow for a vent abovethe windage tray, should I just cut it out and mount the tray lower down to allow for that?

yeah exactly what happened to me, Did you just bore a hole in your crank and weld -12s into that? i was thinking about doing this but was worried about the strength in the block walls. if this can be done it would save me alot of headache

So theoretically it would actually be best to have the sump breather go back into the cam covers, which would help push oil down the head drains if it has that external passage. But by that logic the breathers at the back of the block are pretty massive and there are two... So the oil drains shouldn't have that much trouble draining..... Theoretically.

I've read a lot in this thread, its how I decided on what to run. Setup is as follows 25/30 with vct 1.5 restrictors in front and rear, internal vct mod so the front feeds the vct as well. Sump breather to catch can, both rocker covers to a separate catch can (moisture was building up heaps) Over the track day I didn't get one single drip of oil out the covers, so I think the setup is good.. Just the geforces when cornering pushing oil out my breathers seems to be the issue. I'm considering putting a breather which has to be under the windage tray which isn't ideal. Run that to the stock front breather on the 25 head which was blocked off. That way the pressure has an escape no matter which way you corner.

So i killed an engine at winton a couple weeks ago due to oil starvation. this was caused by the sump breather. i had a straight line coming perpendicular to the sump and the catch can wasnt high enough- all the oil pissed out while turning left.... and the rest is history Now an easy fix for this would be to run a right angle and have it go directly up and through/around the inlet mani and meet up with the now moved catch can. But that would still let oil block up that breather and either build pressure or spit oil up and out ( just not the majority of it like last time) im putting a sump baffle setup through it, but im wondering if the best way to avoid oil getting up to the breather ( drivers side above windage tray) would be to box around it and drill small holes to allow oil back down? what have other people done for this breather?

yeah its got lip, probably just bin this one then. ive been finding it hard to come across a decent 30 lately. alot of people want close to500 $ for them and have a massive whinge when you ask to comp test it.....

Long story short the old block I had spat a bearing from oil starvation and ive picked up another block. This block ive picked up was an "unknown runner" anf by the looks of it its done a whole lotta k's. theres slight polishing on the bores and the bearings were pretty rubbish looking. so the plan is to throw a new set of bearings into it and some new rings. When putting new rings in, can you give the bore a light hone and use the standard 86mm rings? Or do you go with some sort of over size ring?

its a HR31, which kind of handle the power better than a live axle... depends on the cornering situation. But im running slicks and managed to set the car up reasonabley well for the power it currently has. Its just got a steampipe NZ mani ( hybrid performance) i think they are called. spose i could always go eflex and cams to squeeze the extra power out if the holset runs out at 310-320 odd.

well its this or a T67-25G ^ for that option i have to fork out cash up front and live on bread crumbs for awhile and not have a drivable car for ages. The holset however is brand new and a mate has it which i can pay hinm\ at a later date but from what i can see they are a very similar turbo, the other huge draw to it is the 500,000Ks warranty that holset offers to cummins/whatever which makes it rather apealing in relaibility terms. That and rebuild kits are really common for the same reason. on the SOHC 30e they are pos pressure at around 2500 which is also a massive plus ( this is mainly a track car)

Hey guys, im not too cluey when it comes to applying specs of turbos to suit different engines, but im wondering if this HX35 would be suitable for my needs. Turbo Specs : HX35 7-blade: A/R- 0.89 Compressor inducer- 56mm Compressor exducer- 76mm Compressor trim- 54 Turbine inducer- 69.5mm Turbine exducer- 60mm Turbine Trim 75 thats all i could find on the turbo. Heres what i want to achieve 330-350rwkw Heres my current setup rb30e block ( completely standard ) s2 25det head, VCT 660cc injectors 45mm hypergate nistune z32 z32afm BP98 + supporting mods ( cooling etc) Previously i was running a KKr660 that made 278rwkw @15psi.... but didnt make full boost till 5k which is horseshit. So my question is will that HX35 be a suitable size for the 330-350rwkw im aiming for?

just have piping running to the afm as youd see it on an n/a setup turbo was free spinning for the first while of driving, but the gate now has the springs removed and it is open. didnt change the sound of the turbo much at higher RPM. i wouldnt of thought that n/a would of produced enough gas to over spin the turbo. the previous car this was on (rb25) it hit full boost at 4400 or something, hell of alot more gas when there is compressed air added to the equation.

Hey guys, ive just built a 25/30 and im having a few issues with it. ill list the parts as to give you the most info i can Bog stock rb30 block (didnt shave it) sump breather Head: r33 s2 VCT ( re seated valves did valve stem seals, shaved to get it dead straight.) MSLR 1.3mm head gasket Z32 afm z32 nistune Oil cooler 660cc Jecs injectors DW300 300l/h fuel pump KKR 660x turbo NZ steampipe mani 45mm hyper gate standard cooling system ( HR31 skyline) So to get this thing going im running it n/a ( wanna make sure nothing is wrong with it before i cram boost into it) It has an rb25de tune with adjustments made for z32 and 660cc injectors. AFrs are around 14-15 on idle and 12-11 on WOT The car gets warm real quick, but water temp never exceeds 90 deg the issue im having is that the turbo and mani are getting real hot after a casual drive ( havent had a thermometer on it but its radiates heat asif youve been hammering it for awhile) The turbo leaks oil out the front housing ( which i assume the heat has killed the seals?) a crack has also formed on the exhaust housing ( coudlve been there before but im unsure.) the cooling system is also pressurising a hell of alot even though the temp is at 85deg (shown by nistune) im assuming the coolant is boiling in the turbo creating the pressure in the system. Turbo has more than avg shaft play aswell as the oil that leaks out the front of it. Oh and with the rad cap off if you give the engine a rev the water will rise up and out of the rad.. but not bubble. and no oil is in the water. Oil is clean so my question is WTF IS GOING ON?

whats the purpose of baffled catch cans?

oh dude that thread is awesome. covers everything! cheers!!