menthol369

Hey guys ive had a decent read of this awhile back, but now im actually midway through the build i cant find the part about the head drain and sump mods just wondering where abouts you can run the head drain from the 25det head. tap the block where the 25 would normally go on? tap the turbo drain with a large t piece? ( im guessing this is a shit idea due to the crank case pressure affecting the flow) and the common tap the sump, with this method where is better to tap the sump? up higher/lower? towards the front or rear? cheers.

yeah true^ im just going to bite the bullet and run the 8.3:1 run as thin HG as possible and give it a shave on the head.

chamber design plays a huge part in the way the combustion process burns, hence why hemis are actually pretty rubbish

ahh yeah i didnt factor on the shape of the combustion chamber. is that 20thou = x amount off head + x amount off block or 20 thou from block and 20 thou from head. is that all stock pistons etc? also what HG did you run.?

Hey guys, in the middle of building a 25/30 what i want is a completely stock bottom end, so no higher comp pistons or deck shaving etc. and get the preferred 9:1 CR by shaving the head. so basically an rb30 achieves the 9:1 ( excluding block dimensions) through a combustion chamber of 55cc. the rb25 has a 63 cc combustion chamber. has anyone gone to the effort of working out how much the head needs to be shaved to reduce the combustion chamber of the rb25 to 55 cc? or know the method in which you would work this out? i assume youd need an engine shop that has the tools for this option though. ( i somehow dont think squirting 55cc out of a syringe and measuring the gap to the head surface will be accurate enough )

also have rb25 s2 oink label afm for sale. and z32 ECU 50$ each

bump loom gone

Yeah guys thats fine! Not sure on ks. They did work fine. Got a set in my s2 25det that have done probs 50k ks now. Send me a text to set this up! 0430849962

All these parts are located in hornsby NSW contact me on this, or preffered 0430849962 S1 r33 rb25det yellow jacket coilpacks 200$ + loom if needed s13 front hubs/knuckles ( bearings are good, regreased recently ) going 5 studd so no longer need 150$ r33 catback exhaust 3.5inch super hektic cannon 250$ this exhaust ( except the gay cannon ) is actually quite well made and worth more. i just want it gone rb25det block 50$ 25det crank 50$ spacers all 4x114.3 slip ons 20mm 40$ 5mm 20$ bolt ons 2x 20mm with about 50mm worth of stud 70$ pair r33 side skirts 100$. good nic has veilside sticker. not sure if legit r33 lhs door ( coupe ) silver 50$

bamp

so i got some values, 147 at full noise. i played with the timing, from 2200 rpm ive had to set the timing to 15-12 deg. this gave me a max reading of 60 knock. the only thing that concerns me with that little timing is EGTs

yeah when it hit the 0 deg it didnt make any power. I just wanted to see if there was other noise. ill get the peak values next drive

just went and had a fiddle with the timing, there was a guide to see if the knock snesors were picking up other noises. set timing to 0 deg on full load from 4500-6500. i did this and had pretty well no knock. bumped up to 15 deg and was getting minimal knock.

atm I just want it to be safe. it was the bov return to the inlet that slipped. ive fixed it now. afrs have been checked at 12 recently. ive checked cam timing and base ign timing is set correctly for the power fc. and with the knock, as I only have the hand controller to see what it reads its getting to 3/4 at 3k then sorta bounces around from there as the revs increase. ie 3k will have lots of knock. itl drop down to a quater then go back up at 4 etc etc

ive been lurking on this site for some time now but ice finally run into an un answered question. I have a s2 25det with stock turbo internals etc. only mods are power fc, front mount, 3inch exhaust boost tee set at 11 psi so me and a mate did the tuning ourselves. didnt really touch timing. just set the afrs to 12 it ran great with no knock till it went to the track and possiblely leaned out due to a hose coming off the intake from a failed hose clamp non pressure side. few days after it started to show alot of knock on full load. no matyer where timing was set or the boost that was run. even on idle anf low load itl bump the knock reading up every now and then. 130 psi across all 6 btw

bump. offer if need be