2.5T_/<ouki

I had a problem like this but it was after i changed my turbo inlet pipe. My MAF was suffering from reversion BIG time cuasing it to spazz out and shut off. I could almost ALWAYS make it shutt off while going up a hill and then pushing in the clutch to let the RPMs drop.

I would rather not. I run a blow-through setup so connecting back the PCV and routing my breathers back to the inlet would mean i would then have a vacuum leak at idle as the PCV is pulling in air from the valve covers through the breathers which are now BEFORE the maf as it's in blow through. Also, I opened up my inter cooler piping and had TONS of oil/blow by so I'm almost positive a catch can will be better for my setup.

I found that out the hard way, it's the whole reason for asking. I was vent to the intake pipe but had massive amounts of low by in the intercooler pipes.

Hi Guys, Truly appreciate all your help as it helps me out quite a bit. I'm ready to install my oil catch can setup but I'm a little confused as to where i am going to put the little "filter" to make my crankcase still ventable. I've got a Greddy can which has (2) inlets, my PCV valve is capped off, and my (2) breathers up top T together and would only use up (1) Greddy oil can inlet; which leaves the other inlet on the catch can open. Should i place the little filter on this open inlet?

Looks nice! Do you have a pic of it installed? I've got an S14 with RB25 so the fitment will be different i assume. There is less space for me to work.

Nothing was welded on wrong....there simply was no BOV recirc fitting on the inlet. I do not want to recirculate my BOV as that would mean a 4' hose would be running in my engine bay. Pics of "your" inlet?

My BoV was on the coldpipe side and that would have required a long 4' hose across my engine bay making it even uglier . Call me ricer, but i love the sound of a venting BoV. It's good to know the N62 wont max out. Thanks AFM is already relocated about 8" from the TB and my BoV is located now on the hotpipe. My Setup is exactly how i want it and everything is in the location i want it.

It all started when i made a custom turbo inlet pipe. I was tired of using the stock silicone accordion looking one. Once i made this new turbo inlet, i got reversion really bad and the car would just suddenly shut off as if the maf was freaking out causing the engine to stall. I read that blow through was a good option as it allowed for your BoV to be non recirculated and also that if your intercooler couplers popped off, you could still drive it home and fix it rather than being stranded. I went blow through with the J60 stock MAF and have not had any more stalls or reversion so all is well ! I recently went to the dyno to get tuned (NIStune) and it made a lousy 230hp as my VVT solenoid was not working and my MAF was being maxed. I plan on keeping blow through, just wanted to make sure the new maf i replace it with is not going to max out like this one is. I appreciate your responses.

Oh for sure i gotcha. So you didn't have any troubles with maxing out the maf? This is really my only concern.

Yes, my tuner is able to tune for that MAF in that config. Did you run into any problems while in blow through? I'm running a pretty much stock setup, however my J60 was maxing out in blow through around 6500RPM's. It was already getting it's maxed 5v.

I've had no problems so far and i have a few pals that have run them 6yrs+ without any problems, however i do see what you're concerned about and it being pressurized. I am currently only at 13psi and I don't plan on upping it anymore.

I did see those, however this is in a blow through configuration which puts more stress on the AFM's as they become pressurized. Just curious to know if anyone had this on their blow through setup with successful results. Everyone told me the J60 was fine in blow through setup, however the dyno proved otherwise. I'm maxed out on my fueling as the AFM has reached it's 5v already before i even red line or finish the RPM range.

Curious to know if anyone has experience with both of these mafs in a blow through configuration. Currently i switched to blow through on my RB25 running a J60 (stock) MAFS; I got some dyno time and my MAFS was maxing out @ 5v by 6500RPM so im in need of something that will be able to hold up throughout the whole RPM spectrum. I'm trying to find out if a N62 MAF would be a good choice for this as i already have my hands on one. Thanks.

I'm located in the states (California 92831) I'm in need of an RB25 VVT Solenoid. I believe S1/S2 use the same one. I've got a S2 RB25. I'm willing to pay shipping given the overall amount is worth it. Please let me know. Thank You!

So is this the piece that actually pops out? Mine is either REALLLY stuck or just does not work anymore.

Is there a way to test with the VVL solenoid out of the car? I've removed it to try and apply power and ground to it and see if it clicks or moves. I get nothing, no clicks no moving parts nada.

Hi All, So long story short, I went to get a tune lastnight and my RB25 made a lousy 230HP on 13psi. Tuner said that my VVT solenoid is not engaging & my Blow through MAF (Stock MAF) was maxing out at 5v @ 6500RPM. QUESTION: Is there any easy way to test the solenoid? I believe it's just stuck or not engaging properly as i have power to the solenoid but nothing happens when it's applied.

I'm running z32 ECU on my S1 and I have done the necessary mods but I have not come across this wire. Not sure why it's there. As mentioned above, Matt over on the NIStune forums will be glad to help you out. As far as the resistor goes, if you go to the support page on NIStune.com and then installation documents, there is a z32 RB25 ECU modification document that will go into detail about the resistor.

I went blow through setup on my S1 RB25 - MAFS is on cold pipe right before the TB - PCV is connected to Greddy IM - Crankcase breathers are connected to turbo inlet I'm thinking since I moved my MAF to the IC pipe before the TB I'm getting a vacuum leak at crankcase breather hose were it connects to the turbo inlet. It wasn't a vacuum leak before as the MAFS was right before it on the turbo inlet this the air the breathers were taking in via the PCV was already metered. Am I right in thinking that now it's a vacuum leak as the IM is sucking in air from the turbo inlet which is before the MAFS? Any help would be great.

I will look into this.

Figured that part. So pretty much Id need to drive to the shop with the car normally and then do these modification before i get on the dyno? Seems like too much work. I may just have to put the janky ass stock inlet pipe back on :\. I wish there was way to fix this reversion by putting something after the AFM but before TURBO. Thank you ALL for the help. I truly appreciate it.

Well, i was afraid to tune with this as i thought it would leak air. I suppose i could find something a bit better to cap it, but honestly i can't stand the stock inlet lol. Yes i am limited to NIStune as i already have the board and ECU ready to go ! IS there a post or link that you can share or elaborate on relocating the MAF? Seems like i would have to do it while at the shop right before i get on the dyno or else my car wont work properly.

I think i will plumb it back into the inlet after the MAF as recommended. I'm gonna have to have a HUGE ASS hose running about 4' across my engine bay! Going to look so ugly (( My BoV is sooooo far away lmao. SO FAR AWAAAAY

Thank You. As of right now, my BoV is vented to Atmosphere on the Cold Pipe side. Wouldn't a vented atmosphere BoV reduce flutter moreso than a recirculated one as a recirculated one is just pumping air back into the system whereas the vented is venting it? I know it will cause my car to run RICH as hell (which i don't like). So, still using my newly added 3" turbo inlet: Adding a port to it to recirculate the BoV back into it will reduce reversion? I truly appreciate your guy's help. I am trying to NOT use the stock inlet and just make the modification needed to this new inlet to get it to function properly. I think i will recirculate my BoV if you guys think it will reduce the reversion.

The stock rubber intake has (2) ports on it. These are plugged with a screw and a bottle cap........... This is the reason for getting a new turbo inlet pipe. Can someone please explain how recirculating my BoV into my metal inlet pipe would stop the reversion? If this is the case, I'll recirculate it.