D.I.Y. Mik

For sale: $20 - 5m 0 gauge cable. $10 - Throttle body rb 20? $20 - Good fan clutch. $15 - Good fan. $15 - Fan shroud R32 . $10 - 3 inch empty cat (gutted). $10-$30 - R32 dash vents, sun sensor. $15 ea - 3 inch stainless flanges. $20 - Turbosmart bov with RB adaptor. $5 ea - Various silicon joiners for intercooler piping. $50 - 3mm alloy checkerplate 1200x1230 $20 - Aircon temp sensor- outside, front. R32. New in box. $40 - Ford intercooler, 360mm x 260mm bar and plate, 2.5 inch angled outlets. $80 - RB20 turbo, seems in good cond, with actuator. $150 - New Driftworks braided hose set for 32GTR, front and rear brakes, clutch, 6 retainers.

So the easiest is take it to the diff dr, the cheapest is a second-hand centre from 32, 33, or helical 34s. Sounds pretty straightforward. Thanks for complete info, everything i need to know.

Im pretty impressed too... Love it, concept and finish.

Hi guys, my diff is on the way out, and i was wondering: 1 If anyone has ever fitted a non Skyline diff in a Skyline, and what was it, how was it done. 2 Or, What diff centres fit in what housings, which housings fit in which models (can i put a 33 diff on my 32)? I want to fix my diff on a budget, so any useful info is appreciated.

Deliverance

Morning, Im bored too.. Thinking of putting stickers underneath the bonnet or something.

Depends what you call a bogan, these days it means something different. Black is the go. Keen for this look

Thanks, no dammit is for the public, haha. Heres the bits that worked ok (pics). Yes thats a patch where i ripped it and wrinkled it and generally fked it up. Its a dodgey patch cos im going to have another go anyway. You can see a couple of small patches on the front bar, thats because of the extreme corner. Homemade decal covers missing paint. I think ill do the rear bar too.

Dammit! 2nd attempt FAIL!

Heres some cheap stuff, Hard to work with, but its my first go at it. The bonnet ripped, and i sort of gave up on it, ill have to do it again.(3rd time lucky?) The big bends are near impossible with this stuff, see patch on front bar. The wing was done in 3 pieces after 2 failed attempts The sides and rear pods were easier. Good vynil and a proffessional installer would be the way to go in the future.

Ive got some left over if you want. I just cut and stuck it together with good heatproof tape and covered it in foil backed foam for insulation. A bit rough but does the job well.

You should still consider it. Its difficult, not impossible. And would be easier with more expensive stuff im sure. The prep is 10% of a paint prep. Which is heaps of time saved. Getting it done by a pro would still cost much less than a paintjob. Anyway, just the bonnet to go now, ill leave the rear bar till later, and reassemble. Ill post pics of the dodgy bits too so you can see what the deal is.

If i can do it. It doesent work so good in the cold, the bonnet got 90% done then it got cold and ripped. So do it again. Oh well the wing took 3 goes. I can bring everything inside i guess, if i can keep bubs away from it. See how it goes. ill come out anyway with whats done. Then you can see some mistakes too. Doesent matter cos its just my s-box.

Temperature is everything! this stuff works with precise temperatures, so trying to do my bonnet on a cold day didnt work too well. the sun was on it untill the last corner, then the corner ripped off. sheeit.. oh well try again on a warm day. with help next time too.

Oh... Sorry.

I tried to polish mine(rb20), a bit too hard, now it looks like cheap chrome plastic. oops.

They said a bonnet wrapped in cf pattern, 1500x1400, didnt know what brand, not 3m, $600. Its pretty flat so i can do it easy now ive had practice, for about $25 So its a no brainer man, ill just persist with the difficult bits, and finish it myself. The wing is done, 3rd time around got it good enough. and the rest are easier shapes to cover. Im doing the bonnet, front bar, skirts, pods, wing, and the rear bar last, ill see how it looks maybe leave the rear. The rear bar and skirts are the only bits with good paint so they are just to complete the look. It should be done by friday, ill bring it out.

Yeah, i rang goulburn for a price... wow! id get real cf for a little more $$. So DIY all the way. And yeah i see its unavoidable to have relief cuts.

Yeah i go t a good heat gun, and watched tutorials you tube, but some bits are really tricky. maybe the cheap stuff isnt so good. ill call them, thanks Taylor

Getting it around oustide corners is a PAIN, wrinkles and folds, I recommend good vinyl and an experienced installer for those tricky bits, like my 32 wing. At least the cheap stuff isnt too much of a waste of money... cos its cheap. So ill rip it off and start again.

I cant do around an outside corner, I just get a heap of wrinkles. So half my wing looks good, and the other half is turdworthy. The wing, front bar, and rear bar have these annoying shapes. Can anyone do it? Can you recommend anyone? Or even better, teach me how. $ Im not asking for any freebies.$

Cool air and some extra surface area inside will help condense more of the crud. Put it near the front, and have baffles inside. I wouldnt want the crud in mine getting back into the motor. Like Paul said, Run the breather system as usual with the pcv and have the can in the line that goes to the air intake before the turbo. So all you are doing is condensing the crappy oil vapour and stopping most of it from going into the intake and being burned. I read somewhere this vapour effectively lowers your octane level. Bad if you run high boost n stuff.