D.I.Y. Mik

Saw a red 33 with white bumper in cook while pushing the pram. Blue 33 with no spoiler in aranda you live down the street from me.

Free 2 1/2 decat. form r32.

AA sandblasting fyshwick, i think its $30-$35 a rim, cant remember the guy who paints and powdercoats, powdercoating was about $100-$110 a rim if i remember right. paint was more expensive. or you can DIY with a wire brush and sandpaper, etch primer, wheel paint and lots of elbow grease. (thats what i did) Wheel paint in a spraycan is not anywhere as strong/hard as powdercoat or 2pack. (wasted effort?) You could get them blasted then get some GOOD 2pack paint from Allards or other auto paint suppliers. So theres options. All depends on your $$$ and time.

Man... You guys forget all those little things.. some arent cheap. Ive recently spent about a grand just on boost control, gauges and a few other things like a catch can and hoses n sht. think of al the tiny thing like cable ties, tape, connectors, heatwrap, hoseclamps, sprays etc etc. And dont forget the exe stuff thats not engine related like suspension Unless your car is really stock, its had heaps of cash spent on it. But like the teacher says at the start of that Twised Sister video "What are you gonna do with your life!" Good build dude.

So if the alternator is no good..Usually the diodes fry in the alternator, its easy to check them and cheap to fix, like $4.

Try pulling out all fuses and relays first, then put em back one by one. At least it might narrow it down a bit.

Yes it is the throttle sensor, my car runs like sht when im mucking around and forget to plug it in! you will find some broken wires somewhere unless you have some ecu that dont need it (doubt it) Also see a vac line missing, there important for proper turbo/inducion operation

I have a 32 gtstI bought a water temp gauge and i was wondering where the best spot to put the sensor is. I would also like to know which way the water flows Theres also a sensor with the wires chopped at the bottom of the wider radiator from a different car (my cars been owned by some sloppy modifiers) I dont know what that is; the ecu sensor and dash sensor are those two near the head on the top hose i think? I couldnt find a DIY guide for water so ill post one up when im done. so any professional opinions are

Im still in, actually washed the car today, even gave the inside a vacuum. see yous at 9 at grevilea park.(boathouse?)

done, sik see u on sunday

Yeah its M i k, and you know the saying; if you want it done right.. Do It Yourself. lol

They did it for me, cut pipe and brazed the fitting on. Just say some long haired scruffian had one done last friday, do it the same as that.

No, pipe tools from plumbing shop, some shops only sell german and swedish tools so they cost heaps, ring around try Motorspares they are a goldmine of odd tools and parts, southern plumbing have some cheaper tools too USE A HOSE CLAMP! Imagine that hose coming off while your driving, spraying coolant all over a hot turbo.

No worries SAU helped me heaps, good to give some back.

Yeah mines brazed on not so neat

I got Enzed to put a barbed fitting in the banjo that bolts to the turbo, they dont have the same banjo so take yours(ive got a spare if u need) Aushose down the road had some insulation as Enzed were all out of stock i put the rubber hose from there to the back of the head, so only the back of the head has the two hose clamps. good to know its going to be solid, thanks guys. Ill try and get some pics for you.

I just did this on my 32, yes its a pain but it didnt take that long, you might have less room. my line was touching the split dump, got the banjo fitting fitted with a barbed fitting at Enzed, then put hose with and an insulating sleeve, cut line behind head (mini pipe cutters) and slipped it on about 100mm with 2 hose clamps to hold it tight it seemed quicker than trying to remake the metal line, havent driven it far, so far so good. yeah and little cuts from clips and stuff and a sore neck and crippled knees, fun stuff. like troy says, much easier if you remove everything in that area. everything. i have lots of tools to choose from, that made it easier for me. and found the same line today on an old turbo in the shed, off a 32. if you have the time to make a metal line it is the most solid long term solution, im going to make one for mine when they get more 8mm line(enzed). pm me if u need anything. good luck

Stuff for sale make an offer R 32 Dash vents you can see whats broken, sunload sensor. Ford intercooler, 3' stainless exhaust flanges, various silicon(cheap ones!) turbo R32? good cond. fan and clutch. throttle body, 2.5' empty cat, std steering wheel pretty rough. 96 ktm 360 2stroke, 90hp 110kg = look out! also got a set of cams gotta find what what they are first Looking to buy or swap 3 gauge mount for 50mm

Ahh.. cheap parts can all go and die. Spend more time and money makin the sht work Nuke em till they glow! P.S. wilderboy dont go cheap or youll be pulling that turbo off again.. and again.

Me too, just like the one in the photo, blue too. Its on the shelf. There dodgy arent they? i just took mine off, rather have low boost than detonation.

Thanks guys, i have to go with rubber hose and an insulator cos they got no 8mm metal pipe! or the right banjo fittings. Whats the best PERMANENT solution? metal or the aftermarket braided stuff?

I pulled off the oil feed line to my turbo(rb25) and found that the bolt part of the banjo fitting only has a tiny hole to let oil through, its not dirty, its just very small. Is this normal? Some kind of restrictor? Id like to make sure its right before i put it back together. Also will silver solder hold ok on the fittings on the turbo lines, i can make new lines if its good. I tried to unsolder one(need to modify water out line) and it glowed bright orange but didnt unsolder. Nearly melted it. Whats the go with that?

No worries i want stuff from your interior too dash rhs window controls always forget something, i can remove parts for cheaper price If you come tonight i can bring lights.

Taking up space and no good to me Right side, most damage (first two pics) Left side, ends of these two mounts snapped, easy fix (third pic) Or bake off the lenses if you want them (good to have a spare if yours crack or smash)