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XGTRX

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Everything posted by XGTRX

  1. Aftermarket oil pressure sensor I would say
  2. TO4Z for the win. Nothing else can compete.
  3. It's a good unit, does everything it claims well. Good boost control, good boost cut in a lean condition, good logging and a 5v output for ECU integration. No complaints.
  4. Don't forget to consider the need for a restrictor for your oil feed. A $20 in line filter is also a good idea.
  5. Thats awesome man, at least your dyno figure is in the MPH ball park, good on you mate. Did you change anything from the last run?
  6. Hmmmm, yep people do and peak power is one of the parameters people like to compare. Regardless, these sound pretty awesome through the mid-range and through transition.
  7. I thought you never get to run at WSID with all the VLs dumping their guts every 5 minutes Ha ha. That thread was the definition of insanity.
  8. Don't mean to be direspectful but Trap Speed is used as a tuning tool. Nothing to do being a bafoon just more to do with verifying dyno figures, as a graph can say what it wants but Mph is the purest number for measuring peak power. So if a dyno sheet quotes 500kws peak power and the car pulls 130 mph then questions need to be asked to the validity of the power figure quoted on the dyno sheet. Like it or not its just the way it is.
  9. Fair enough, sounds logical. Out of interest have you been in many other setups to compare it to? And have the set ups you have been in, do they have mph to back up the peak power figures?
  10. I think you are missing the point Pete as some of this skepticism is justified. While transitional response is to be commended by the seat of the pants experience and dyno, the mph numbers just don't stack up. 20 psi on 93 makes 370 wkws and pulls 120mph 30 psi on E85 makes 500 wkws and pulls 132mph This is why people are skeptical and it needs to be highlighted if people are considering various turbos for their build. Not having go, as long as people are happy with the performance who cares, but the mph really hasn't demonstrated these turbos are flowing any better up top than old tech which is similar to the GT to GTX data, yet dyno numbers are generous to say the least. Back to back is great, but let's also see some mph supporting these peak power figures. I am actually looking forward to Piggaz posting up his results as his setup seems spot on for big mph if the turbo can deliver. Ps: if a moderator is not happy with this post just pm me and I will stop posting.
  11. So based on the posted mph these turbos are performing pretty close to the GT35, GT42s or old tech equivalents, 120ish mph about 340ish kws and 134 mph about 420ish kws. What's the advantage of this new breed? Most GT35s are making 20psi by 4500 on the 26. Am I missing something?
  12. Spray water on the belts and pullys while it makes the noise and see if it goes away. Easiest way to isolate it.
  13. Look in the hole with a torch where the fork comes out of the gearbox and you will see the pivot. Also the fork will have to lot of slack and sometimes will foul on the gearbox housing when engaged. Good luck
  14. Yep, as above. Had a similar issue a while back. Check the +ve on the starter, then check the earths from the motor to the chassis and starter to the motor. Grease and crap may get in between the contacts so give them a sand and tighten them back up.
  15. Usually kits come with an bung that you weld in. Just bring it to an exhaust shop and they will do it in half an hour. Just make sure the bung slightly points down to the floor so you don't get condensation issues on the sensor, so install at about 10 or 2 o'clock
  16. It's better to tell us ur aim rather that just power. 1/4, 1/2, 1 mile etc. What times you are aiming for, auto/manual, etc etc etc.
  17. Just before the cat. Minimum 60 cm from the turbine outlet.
  18. Nah they aren't adjustable but any clutch can drag. You will notice that it doesn't disengage fully as the plate partially binds and causes notchy changes and hard to get into gear. You will also notice the car will try to creep forward and a lower idle rpm when at the stop in gear with the clutch engaged.
  19. It's a pain in the arse, just make sure ur oil is in good nick. Smurf's blood is good once the gearbox is getting tired and it will tend to make the gear changes even worse when cold but comes into its own when warmed up. It also tends to crunch gears at high rpm as it slows the syncro down a bit. You can try a friction modifier like nulon or slick 50 gearbox product etc as they do help, but you probably have to just warm it up properly or rev match when cold like I have to do every morning. Also just make sure it's not your clutch binding when it's cold. Cheers
  20. Rather I will give words of wisdom, The more you read through the results in the search function, the more knowledgeable you will become and in this case the more obvious the answer is. Yes they are good clutches and yes they are highly recommended. On a side note, what's the best melody on musical air horns? I was thinking of connecting to my MAP sensor to trigger a La Cucaracha every time I come on boost. I used the search function and couldn't find anything.
  21. Jizzmatronic you say...... easy. 35/40 or equivalent, supporting mods, block off your BOV, tune, and you will have a 350kw dosing machine........ Jizz everywhere
  22. Coppermix is one of the best clutches you can get. End thread because if you did a basic search you would have already known the answer. Go and search, read the 100 threads on clutches, and then come back and say sorry.
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