R34gymjunkie

AAC was seized and aic solenoid was faulty.... All fixed now thanks for the help guys

Sorry didn't mean it as an attack, I know both afms r fine cos when I unplug them the car nearly does so I bought one for nothing

I'm not that stupid mate.... Like I said I jst need a good mechanic, I've tried everything that I have Bn told to do off this site, quite over it now cos it's my daily driver...

Should of wrote that more clear, but I snapped the nipple looking for vac leaks after the problem Accured but that def is not the Problem, unsure if the engine light came up after I snapped the nipple or because the car is now starting to hesitate

Check engine light is on, traction control is stuck on as wel as I snapped a nipple pulling a vac hose off on the traction control sensor but is getting replaced tomorrow, this all happened b4 that but, I did do a diagnostics and it came back afm So I Replaced it, didn't fix it and I was told that Rbs are common to throw afm codes in when something is wrong... I'm going to let aechanic sort it out so if some1 else knows a gd mechanic near sunnybank I will take it there otherwise 999 is my option for now

Where would u suggest then?

As many as it takes to fix my car... Gotta learn somehow and As I've never had this problem B4 I'm trying to find out as much as I can so I know what to do in future, as I've tried everything else, and as no1 has said anything about coilpacks I wanted to put it in the title to attract other people that have had coilpack issues to share with me there problems as I dnt know the symptoms and I dnt know how often ur suppose to change them as there is mixed info on them? This is a forum after all for getting information?

Ok so I was wondering if a fudged coilpack would cause a car to fluctacte at idle (1200 to 2000rpm) I cnt find any vac leaks and I jst went to go down the road and my car started hesitating and almost died at stand still, Managed to limp the car back home, I've had it on diagnostics and it comes back afm, I changed afm and still did the same thing, I've got new plugs in gapped at .8mm, cnt find any vac leaks, tps is fine, I've had 2 mechanics look at it quickly but have no idea.. I'm going to take it to 999 automotive tomorrow, but after I jst took it for a drive I was thinking maybe the coilpacks r the problem, the car is upto 137xxxkms, 3" exhaust turbo back, nd running 12psi, r34 gtt sedan..

Jst curious but is that the gray plug that goes into the abs that u disconnect to run rwd only? Cos that's a mission to get off unless u got hands like a frog

My does it the whole time

I've reset the ecu n put it back to stock... Should that fix it? Only mods r exhaust, coilovers n boost controller....

Just a turbo smart one not sure on type, it's not the bov, I've tried stock n I also tried blocking it off n still revs up n down

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379225-hunting/page__hl__hunting%20idle the video in this thread, is exactly what it's doing ....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379225-hunting/page__hl__hunting%20idle the video in this thread, is exactly what it's doing ....

It idles at 2000rpm when cold then once warm bounces up and down from 1200 rpm to 2000rpm...

I even put the stock boost solenoid on n bov plumbed back...

I think it's mechanic time, I stripped nearly all pipes n hoses today on the engine to inspect them, cleaned AAC, I'm not sure witch one is the cold start valve, I tried adjusting the tps, and aic? Still got no clue

All I did was put the boost controller, I put it on backwards at first n hit fuel cut, I then switched it back n I was idling high, it then got worse n now it jst revs from 1200 to 2000 consistently on idle...

Checked the canister, all fine, pulled the main pipe that goes to front of the turbo off and no splits or holes, checked the alloy piping that goes into the induction pip and looks fine also, it has to be the sensor on the back of the plenum...

Pull all intercooler Pipes off, inlet manifold and checked for cracks/split hoses and anything else that doesn't look right, everything seems to be fine, I noticed the butterfly in the tb is open when the car is off? Not sure if that's correct or not? Car is not blowing any smoke and is still jumping while at idle and is consistent, no powerloss, the sensor on the front of the plenum does adjust the idle so I know that's still working, the one at the back still does nothing to the idle when playing with it, even of unplugged so I'm still guessing this is the problem, I notice there is a bit of blowby in the piping but not a lot, checked radiator fluid and the oil, put everything back to stock including stock boost solenoid and blow off valve, still nothing, checked vac lines, hose clamps, battery terminals, afm, plugs were done a month ago ngkbkr7es, cleaned pod filter, reset ecu, still go no idea

Ok so I cleaned the AAC and the aicv, did nothing, even when I unplugged the AAC at idle it didn't change the revs at all...

I can only find the DIY AAC valve cleaning thread not the iac?

Ok guys I have wrote this up a few days ago and done Alot of research, my car at idle is bouncing from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, I have a r34 gtt, I've been reading all day and I've replaced the afm, didn't fix it, tried fiddling with the tps, it jst changes the idle rpm but stil was jumping, I think tps is the one closest to the radiator on the tb? Ok now I tried the one at the rear of the tb, and it didn't change the revs or how the engine ran at all, I tried disconnecting it and still didn't do anything so I'm guessing this is the problem? I'm hoping it is cos I'm hopeless at working on cars and if it is I'll be stoked with myself lol, of this is the problem can any1 tell me what this sensor is called so I can get another?

Put stock bov back on* checked for vac leaks again....

Replaced afm today, still no go, put stick bov bov back on, still idling (revving) from 1200 rpm to 2000rpm consistently....