ahhbee

will stick out by about 25mm, meaning you'd need stupid camber, massive stretch or a decent flare to have a chance. the picture ive attached is a 9.5 +20 running around 1.7 degrees camber. making anything bigger fit would take time and money.

9.5 +22 needs about 2 degrees camber and a roll on the front to fit, which is possible if you slam it/use camber arms, at legal height it still looks a little mexican.

White can with red lid, id be guessing your referring to CRC. I just used meguairs plastx and sealed it afterwards. 4 months later and headlights still look mint.

Price for gearknob and postage to adelaide please.

Ive got a pioneer one for sale, reads MP3. Comes with everything including the box, and has nissan to iso cables for plug and play. Was looking around $80 but feel free to make an offer.

I took a guess for you fatz WGNC34-003427 is a X-Four, non turbo auto WGNC34-003827 is a RS Four V, turbo auto Ive just checked using a 260RS i know of that gives this cool little note, (chassis no. etc blanked because i dont have the owners permission to display them)

Had that pink R31-House brick swerving in and out of lanes in front of me just before, god it has a horrible drone

that's missing some numbers, would need to see the auction sheet.

That ones a V-Spec

It's not a V-Spec, just a GTR

If you still have standard rear arms and just lowered the car then you may well have 1.5-2 degrees of camber (i had 1.7 on my 34 with standard arms at 345mm eyebrow height) what this meant is that my 265 rears only had a 235 contact patch. All well and good to buy good tyres but make sure your alignment is correct as well.

Just Jap stainless front pipe, suits R34 selling as i plan to swap turbo soon. $130 ono Kenwood DEH-1350MPG stereo, comes with everything box/cables/remote/din pocket, changed to a dvd player so no need for it, would suit a daily but is plug and play for nissans $80 ono

give either the federal rsr's or kuhmo ku36's a try first. also just looking at your avatar the 33 looks quite low, have you got camber arms etc? having a small tyre contact patch from big negative camber on the rear wont help traction either.

if you have a properly baffled catch can then there shouldnt be much going into the intake pipe. mine points towards the turbo (using standard rubber intake pipe) and i havent seen any oil/dirt etc in the pipe. the catch can has a little bit of oil in the bottom, and due to the proper mesh baffles id like to think theres not much oil vapour making it to turbo.

ah well you learn something new everyday. ill add it to my list of things to get done eventually

just out of interest why have you plumbed back into the intake facing away from the turbo? i always though the intention was to have it facing towards to the turbo similar to how you should plumb a bov return. i know i might not be correct, but i think it may cause pressure issues. maybe if someone like scotty see's this he might know more, but he has other threads about intake pipe plumbing, seeing as how he makes them.

whats wrong with heater hose? ive had it on my 34 for about 4 months now since i noticed the old one had split and i cant say ive seen any ill affects at all, ive taken it on and off half a dozen times since then as well, never had any troubles or noticed any wear or anything.

The thrust bearing is the one that changes sound with the clutch in or out. I myself have a similar noise from the gearbox, but ive got a damaged second gear syncro and the input shaft bearing is going.Take it to a specialist if your worried by the noise, they should pick up what it is. Otherwise leave it, if you drive it sedately it may not get any worse, or if like me you drive it hard you may worsen it, 8 months on im pulling my box back out to get it rebuilt. Goodluck

how much effort do you think would be required to make an 18x9.5 +15 fit. im looking for new wheels but am wanting good traction as well as offset, so id be looking for something like a 255 on a 9.5 +20 but i fear it would take to much camber/guard work to get them to fit properly. anyone running a 255 on the front of a 34 gtt? otherwise id look at a decent 235 on a 9 +20, but does anyone know of anything comparable to say an xd9 in this offset? cheers

yea the rocker cover lines are the two ontop of your engine. im not gunna enter into the atmo/plumb back catch can argument but i can also see in the second pic that your turbo intake pipe has a bung so that you could plumb it back in if you wanted. that looks like a lot of oil on the catch can, i would definantly do a leak down test, my guess being that you have a damaged ring or ring land

cheers guys, ive had my car for about 8 months now and have done suspension etc so just starting to look at adding power, amperformance here in sa do very impressive looking split front pipes and was looking at getting one but he makes them in such a way that i dont think they would work with the hiflow which lead me to wonder if anyone was running one. will look into it more but atleast you guys have given me insight into which front pipe i should be looking at.

you'll definantly need a h/d clutch which you should be able to tell just by pedal feel. i chose a NPC h/d organic that was $800 delivered,and good for 300rwkw i installed it myself but i believe your looking at $400 or so in labour

just a quick question are do you guys use bellmouth or split front pipes?