ahhbee

these are just sitting around not being used, feel free to make offers

that badge is from the 1970 C10 GTR EDIT just checking up on my memory its specifically the KPGC-10

white r35 on marion road, gave it a little squirt next to me, sounded amazing

ah its alright mate, found out today that nolathane make them. have heard mixed reviews about their quality but there relatively cheap so ill give them a crack.

Now before i get flamed i have tried searching both through the topics and whiteline's website etc. im looking to replace the bushes on my r34 gtt both upper and lower control arms front and rear. i have adjustable rear arms to dial out some of the camber and am quite happy with this. the fronts have about 1.5 degrees of natural camber which i am also fine with the problem is i cannot find non adjustable upper arm bushes, has anyone had any luck finding these, i know there are nismo ones but they cost a fortune. whiteline/superpro dont seem to make non adjustable ones so any input is appreciated.

after an r34 2 door bootlid in KR4 silver without spoiler holes. alternatively if someone wants to swap for my boot with spoiler its in good/fair condition with a small scratch on the right.

silver 33gtr with a bolt in cage at mawson lakes, looked and sounded the goods

give it a shot i did my 34 by myself on the ground without ever having done one and didnt have any real trouble. i used the spare wheel in place of a second jack to help when aligning it. i wouldnt have any hesistation doing it again by myself either

maybe try cartel-aus. the're a varrstoen dealer http://www.shop.cartel-aus.com/Alloy-Wheels_c6.htm

i actually dont know if it would fit, i have a feeling it wouldnt as i think the front pipes are different lengths. maybe someone else could confirm or correct this.

got some stuff for sale guys as my gearbox is on the verge of death now, so trying to free up some dollars for that. Just jap dump pipe, suits R34. bought last week and has been on the car for all of 3 days. has just gotten that slight golden tinge stainless goes when hot. - $180 Just jap decat w/ gaskets, suits R34. - $50 Pioneer DEH-1350MPG stereo, bought to get the aussie station realised ive never really used it. comes with nissan -> iso -> pioneer wiring so no cutting/soldering required, can also throw in din pocket - $120 ono Trust gearknob, not a scratch on it, just sits ontop of my busted gearbox - $40 ono Turbotech manual boost controller, was fitted for about a week until i swapped it out for an rb20 actuator - $25 and the LEFT weathershield from my 34 2 door, comes with all clips - $15 ono can be contacted on 0433 987 945 or by pm cheers ben

the whirring is the thrust bearing, perfectly normal. i recently replaced my clutch and thrust bearing and the whirring noise is there just as it was before, i also think its got something to do with my r34 and your 33 gtr being pull type clutches im sure someone else can either confirm or correct me on this.

looks tidy is it just me or is that a 4dr spoiler?

just check the simple stuff and get a mechanic to go over it if your not sure. pull out the rear carpet in the boot and check for new/differernt colour filler, at the engine bay your looking for little dimples like from a bench vice where the front guards bolt up. find either of these and theres a good chance its had a little spill at some stage, its not all bad though mine had a light hit in the back, sub frame is straight and panels are fine. when you start it dont immediatly get worried about a couple of noises coming from the engine the tick, tick, tick is just the injectors and the light tap, tap, tap (if its there) is usually slightly worn lifters. these are a real problem its just a slightly annoying noise. mines made it for over 10,000kms no probs. when you take one for a drive just be aware that it has a pull type clutch and tends to engage at a slightly higher point than a 'normal' push type, again nothing to be worried about but if it is the standard clutch and you ever plan to wind 12psi or so into it better off with a heavy duty, if it already has one bonus. theres not really to much to go wrong with these as long as there is no noise or vibration through the pedal. gearbox wise it should hopefuly be alright but be aware that if its had a harder life syncros may be worn, i myself have a pretty mangled 2nd gear syncro, just means you have to rev match pretty well. thats all i tend to look for on the mechanical side, visually check panels dont have huge gaps etc. if your not happy to fork out for a mechanic inspection atleast take a mate into cars (preferable one who knows imports) as they may very well catch some of these problems you may miss. either way best of luck, and enjoy the money pit that becomes your skyline

Pretty much the same offset as i run now, fits not dramas. Im going to 18x9.5 +20 all round and lowering some more but that will require a heap of camber and the rear guards rolled plus a possible flare. Not everyones cup of tea but the ones you linked will fit with no mods needed

if the bov is venting to atmosphere thats more than likely your problem, the way they work means that the car is getting unmetered air (air not measured by the afm) and therefore idles and runs poorly, needs a retune to fix it. if it plumbs back then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

ive just done my gearbox with redline it took about 3.5 litres. dunno about the diff, ive still got to do that

ive got a spigot bush, but i replaced that as well. also new thrust bearing that came with the clutch. ive also got vibration in the gear lever that i assumed was from the input shaft bearing, hence why i thought it might also be causing the vibration in the clutch.

yea i did machine the flywheel, ive got an npc heavy duty organic, so im assuming it has stiffer springs?? and that you would feel more vibration over softer springs right? (i know its trivial, but it makes sense in my head ) i was really just wondering if the play in the input shaft would be causing my vibration. same idea as the broken spring that as it rotates it causes pluses through the slave which you'd feel in the pedal

rather than start a new topic i figure id post here. i have the same problem in my r34, its not bad but just enough to annoy me. i replaced the standard clutch with an npc recently so hoping its not a broken spring, but the input shaft did have 0.8mm of lateral movement due to a worn input shaft bearing i believe. is it possible that the movement of the input shaft is causing my vibration, or is it still likely to be something in the clutch broken??

had dohmar follow me on main north road just before

Specs: WORK Varianza T1S - MSP (machine silver polish) http://www.workwheel...ory=24&wheel=50 Specs: 18x8.5F and 18x9.5R and +35 offset all round. LEGAL tread on all four tyres, front tyres are 225/40/18 Yokohama Avid and rears are 235/40/18 Bridgestone Sneakers stretched for that exta low! I bought these about a year and a half ago and there was only a slight marking to the insert on one wheel, since then nothing has changed, there are a few minor scratches here and there. These wheels are really hard to get here and you won't see them up for sale often as I found when I was looking for them! Rears will need replacing within a few months, but as stated they have legal tread. Location: SA Price: $2550 ono Contact: 0404128656

Spotted chef's cube just now, love the plates

This is something ive been thinking about doing for a while, the only thing stopping me is that i thought the demistors were a legal thing?