dojobi

This M2 brand sounds awesome. Looks like you've got another customer here

As good as an RB30DET skyline would be, I voted S15 as you'll probably get better resale on it. Then again if you're planning on keeping both cars a while, then the R33 RB30DET could make financial sense. Plus the S15 is an awesome car. Also, do you like low down torque or a little lag? That's another factor to put into the equation.

One other thing. The L28E may have a better torque down low. I'm sure an R32 owner in here will be able to help you out as there are some R32s going around that aren't too laggy.

I'm not too sure on the selling prices, but the RB25 turbo onto the RB20 engine is definitely a good idea. I also think the RB20 swap is a good idea too - although I don't know how hard it is. People have done it before, so someone should be able to help you. You'll get much better economy and the benefit of a tweakable engine with a huge aftermarket parts catalogue. The RB20DET also has more power than the old L28E. The RB20DET has 158kw/265Nm and the L28E has roughly 100kw and 200Nm from memory. Finally when you're done, you must take me for a spin in it.

Pentae, those times, weights and powers do seem a tad off. The weight of the R33 GTS25t is between 1360kg and 1400kg depending on the options and the age of the car. Also, the power is 184kw (ok, it's 2kw difference ) Also, You may say that 14.3 is optimistic, but I've heard of 14.2s with totally stock cars. If you want any stats on Skylines, go here - imports.motortraders.net - all their info seems to be spot on. Cheers, Michael

Yeah I'm currently using part of the stock intercooler pipe to feed cold air in. It isn't too big, but it's curved so the cold air goes straight at the pod.

Like the guys above said, since we're posting our dyno sheets - My dyno sheet This is mine after the SAFC was tuned. I don't have the copy of the before run, but you can see the top end doesn't have any drop offs. Before hand, I had the same lack of power up top and AFRs in the 9s! BTW The drop at the bottom is just from my exhaust cam gear.

My HKS Type S cooler isn't too big, and the car felt way better to drive after putting it on. I also feel safer driving it on hotter days and not having to worry about detonation. The pod - well I thought I had to do it when I got the FMIC cos the piping was in the way (it turns out you can use a GTR intake instead), but anyway, the pod sounds good and mine's all boxed up with a cold air feed. It didn't really feel any different I suppose, but then again who can feel a few kw's difference

OK, well it's not cheap, but it was an example of a good Aussie product. Their "Basic" can be an example of cheap if you like It's easily obtained for under $160.

I have to agree that some of the Aussie made products are awesome quality. e.g. GFB BOVs - they are so good and cheap. Especially their new Stealth FX which can become full vented or full plumbback just by turning a knob. Or you can put in hybrid mode by putting the knob somewhere in between. OK sorry - back to intercoolers. I wish I hadn't bought my HKS type S, as it was a little overpriced. It does the job well though, so I am happy with it. The reason I bought it was that I knew the piping would line up as it was a kit. I've heard horror stories about bad piping with custom jobs.

Ronin, It annoyed me heaps at first, but then I grew to love the noise. It's the loudest pod I've EVER heard by far. Mine doesn't do the sneeze thing though, my new bov seemed to stop that. So it is purely an induction noise now. It's a bit of an acquired taste. Everyone who rides in it always says it makes the car sound fast. Small child LOL

Yeah I've seen that too BOOSTD, but I've also seen another test that showed the Trust to have the best filtering properties. That was actually what made me decide to get the Airinx. Now I've got no idea if it is a good or bad filter.

$2000, old scheme, 2 years ago

Yep definitely. It's not like there's any rush to have a perfect list or anything.

Ben, good to see you're keeping it up to date. Maybe a list of mods next to the times would be good?

I bought it a while back from Takakaira, so I wouldn't know the current price. It was fairly cheap though and came with all the mounting stuff you needed. They used it in the Evolution R 200SX. I found a copy of an article about it on the net, but it has disappeared. Here's a google cache of it though: http://216.239.37.104/search?q=cache:nzLpZ...&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

I'm not a fan of oiled pods at all. Mainly, because I've heard they can foul the AFM. Also, from what I can gather, don't filter that much better than your standard dry mushroom pods. I use a Trust Airinx and damn does it sound sweet I've got no idea on how well it filters, as I've now heard (after I bought it) that it is the best filter on the market, and also the worst filter on the market. I haven't had any major engine problems so I suppose you can assume it at least filters out the big stuff.

Nismo, that's just what I've seen from the dyno sheets others have posted on here. It seems about right to me though, cos a 184kw GTS25t gets around 130rwkw, so a 147kw GTS25 Type S would get around 103rwkw. The standard GTS25 has 140kw, so it is a bit lower at the wheels too. The figures I'm using are from the motortraders site btw. Also, not every car or dyno is the same of course

S15, but can you still get them under the new scheme?

are you talking about an import that you've owned overseas for 12 months (I think they used to have yellow compliance plates), or just the standard imports (green compliance plates)? If that's what you're talking about, it should be the same, except if you import a car that isn't usually allowed here e.g. the Toyota Chasers weren't allowed in under the old rules. In this situation, the insurer might just say that they've never heard of it and deny you insurance straight away.

Well it's been that way for over 6 months now and I do give it a little bit every day. I've also done a fair few 1/4 runs at my private dragstrip. It felt stronger than 12 psi, so I left it there). Also, I'm not really a big believer in high/low boost switchable setups, cos I like the idea of having the car run exactly as it was on the dyno. So that's why I only run 1 Bar. That said, I've seen a unichip setup where the guy had different maps for high and low boost and also for shit petrol. It was really good. I almost bought one when I saw it. My car was nowhere near leaning out when I upped the boost. In fact, before I got my SAFC I had A/F ratios in the 9s! Then again, you have probably got one of these magical 95 ECUs.

benm, I'm running 14.7 psi and it probably spikes a little higher than that at the moment. No problems at all (so far... ) I do have a series 1, though, and the general consensus is that they can take a little more boost than your series 2 R33.

imports.motortraders.net has everything you could possibly want to know about stock specs. As for the rear wheels, it depends on the dyno, but here's what I've roughly found to be the case over the last 2 years. I have noticed that dynos appear to be reading higher and higher as time goes by though. R33 GTS25t - around 130rwkw or slightly higher in shootout mode (usually) R33 GTS - around 95 - 105 rwkw R34 GTT - around 140rwkw or a little higher in shootout. Finally, I'm not sure on the R32s.

Tomei Poncams are apparently decent cams that allow you to keep the NVCS.

There's no way I'd be able to say what all my little mods were to my car, so there's no way I'd be able to list them to them so that they could replace them. I tell you what though, I'd be nice and pissed off if that was my car. Especially one that they can't replace anymore. I wonder if he'll get compensated for the things like the Silvia badges and any other small mods.