dojobi

rev, Which EBC can you find for under $400? I was not prepared to pay $600+ on an EBC when I knew the logic inside was so simple. That was why I went for the bleeder. Getting one for under $400 could convince me to buy one though. Cheers, Michael

$110 eh? My mechanic must have given me a REALLY good price then.

2/20 times?! Damn that's insane. Good for him I say I'm working here (web dev stuff). I'll be moving on to Canada soon to do the same stuff actually. It's pretty nice here, but no Skylines, just really ordinary cars. I honestly don't like too many of the cars they've got here. I haven't driven here yet, but I'm getting driving lessons soon just to see how it feels to drive a LHD car.

Actually one other thing. I don't think the GFB one is double gated (is that what they call it?), so it just bleeds instantly meaning it isn't like an EBC and holds the wastegate shut until it reaches the preset level. Some bleeders can do this.

I use a GFB bleeder (I think it's called the Atomic Boost Controller or something along those lines). My mechanic is a GFB reseller so he gets their parts quite cheaply. I've forgotten the price, but it was around $60 or slightly more. I was going to make my own, but at that price the parts would have been more. I really like GFB products as they're cheap and do the job.

I'm running 14psi on mine via a bleeder and it hasn't blown up yet. It's been like this for over 6 months now too. I still recommend an EBC though. I'm just a cheap arse.

20kw?!?! That's huge. Is the S15 standard manifold particularly restrictive?

Sorry, I meant when I was back in Australia. I'm just living in Boston at the moment. I was talking about the Aussie police.

It's really weird. I've been driving/speeding for about 8 years now, pulled over about 4 times, yet every time the cops let me off. I've got no idea why either. 1 time was in my old Lancer, but 3 times in my Skyline (which is pure cop bait) and they still let me go. Anyway, I'd say try and fight it to keep your perfect record. I've still got mine and if (when) I get done, I'll try and use the 8 years of driving and no offences excuse. Cheers, Michael

Oops sorry for the bad info Jimbo2000. I was thinking 15psi. it's funny how you read one thing and then keep reading it the same way in your head from then on.

Yeah that's what I do akeenan. I don't really see the point to low boost and high boost settings. If I'm wanting to go fast I put my foot down. If I want to take it easy I just don't put my foot down as much. I have absolutely no problems with fuel economy either. Anyway, to answer your question SeriesIIGTST - I think I understand what you want and that's to run lower than stock boost right? If so, then changing the spring should do this (at least in theory). I don't know of any computer problems that this might cause though. Someone else will jump in if I'm wrong I'd say

My stocker was leaking at basically stock boost. It depends on the condition yours is in, but from what others have said, it should be fine.

I'd suggest an upgrade of the cooler and the computer. I've always been of the opinion that if you change the turbo, you change the computer (and a SAFC isn't really a full computer change imo). There's a lot of power to be had in adjusting the timing I think. 2 other things, my car became a lot more powerful with just a cooler change, so I really recommend it. Also, I feel 14psi is fine as a constant setting for the street because you aren't holding it at that like you are on the track.

walkou, I think you need a nice big FMIC to fill that empty spot in your 400R front bar. It's begging for one Very nice car btw. I wish I bought a 4 door now.

I like both, but I think having the black lights in a 4 dr is better. Generally, I find that a car with a personal touch looks better. So having black lights in a car that is meant to have silver is the way I'd go. Cheers, Michael

I've got a short shifter in mine and I really recommend it. My shift to 2nd from 1st is getting worse by the day (although it's ok once it's warmed up), and I'm sure the short shifter is half the reason, but I still would recommend it.

You could keep the original bov there with a metal plate between it the original position on the ic piping and the vacuum line and return pipes hooked up to nothing (for show - just route them down into the belly of the engine). Then just put the other bov down near the front bar on the ic piping - before or after the ic is up to you, I've seen it in both positions. It'll make it nice and loud too. I think PranK did this actually with his Blitz one. He said it was ****ing loud.

I think they look great a5h. I'm considering getting the back one now.

I hate these sorts of threads - they always make my wallet lighter. Now I think I might have to get a Wolf. Does anyone know if there's a tuner who can do them in Newcastle? I suppose I could go to Sydney, but I'd rather get it done here.

Awesome result! That's the first 12 I've heard of on the stock turbo. I also run around 1 Bar on my stock turbo and I've had no problems. I think most ppl are just a little conservative with their turbos. In my experience, the S1 turbo is good for 1 Bar, but ppl just like to repeat what they've heard about them failing at this level. They may not last as long as one at stock boost, but that's just a fact of life when you turn up the boost. I've given mine many a spirited run and no blades have come off (yet hehe). That said, there's no way I'd run this boost on the racetrack. Guaranteed turbo failure.

Anyone else still have their SDU sticker on their car and not visit that forum anymore?

I thought we didn't have a law against entrapment here?

Soulja, I agree totally. I'd love a vette or a viper. That's about it though. They can keep the rest. Especially the Camaros - I'd give them the ugliest car ever made award, but I had to reserve that for the Taurus we got. Akeenan - I think they are Chevy Impalas. There's a fair few of them around. They were good in the old days when they were rear wheel drive and had 400+ ci engines. Not too special now.

Akeenan, I'm over here too. I miss seeing the Aussie cars. Pretty well all American cars suck. THey have an obsession with making the noses pointy.

All you really need is some aftermarket management I reckon. A Super AFC or preferably a Power FC should give you that bit extra to get ahead in the 0-100. Just practice your launches. It's easier to launch a Skyline than a WRX (assuming they aren't doing a clutch dump - and if I owned a rex, I'd be taking care of my gearbox) as you can get some wheelspin to stop bogging off the line, and they can't.