dojobi

I'm not going to be able to drive my car for 8 months, so you can imagine the pain I'm in.

BTW An R34 GTR will give a Z06 a pretty good run. I'm not sure who would win, but it'd be damn close.

Fair enough Soulja, I generally agree with you, but your above comment that V8 drivers love to make really annoys me. The GTR is DESIGNED to have a turbo (2 in fact), and therefore it is not really valid to say the GTR is modded because it isn't NA. It is a small capacity engine that is boosted. The LS1 is a large capacity unboosted engine. Both are equally good ways to make power. And personally, I'll take the turbo way. Cheers, Michael

I always prefer to do about 3000rpm and then ease the clutch out fairly quickly (basically a controlled dump).

Despite reading this thread, and seeing the excellent results rev has had, I'm still not convinced that the traditional mods aren't the way to go. I think you're just really good at drag racing, rev. That said, it's certainly made me interested in the lightened flywheel. If I was in Perth, it would be good to see what times you could get in my car.

Also, I don't think it's just drivetrain loss you're seeing when you pull 130rwkw from a 184kw car on a dyno. Maybe the dyno itself is inefficient at reading it or there was tyre slip.

I reckon the HFV6 will be a sweet engine. Apparently it's going to come with around 200kw NA. That's well and truly over what the old 5L V8s had. The turbo'd version would be nice, but I don't think we'll get that here. The engine is being used by a few other manufacturers and they'll most likely have that as an option, but I can't see Holden doing it. I'd like to be proven wrong though.

I still wouldn't write all commodores off. I've seen a fair few SSs with >200rwkw and they are certainly not slow. These are pulling 1/4s in the low 13s. MotoX - the 300kw Commodores generally get around 215rwkw+, so they can put up a fair fight against a tuned up Skyline.

Have you got any pictures of other 240SXs with the R33 front? I'd be interested in seeing how it looks. Thanks.

Where'd that come from fatz? Newy may have more than its fair share of bogans but it's got nothing on Western Sydney.

Robo, I'd say you're not at 180/190 rwkws, probably more like 160-170. I'm at 177rwkw (measured at Hills, non shootout mode) with a SAFC and cam gear on top of what you've got (except for the oil/air separator).

Really? That's good to hear. I thought my car was only good for about 13.5s too, and it's been setup as above, but with a cam gear and SAFC. BTW Shuto, out of curiosity, how do you know your R33 is the first gtst?

Well firstly, I don't think you will have done any damage. 1.1 bar, whilst not good for it, probably won't kill the turbo if you only give it a little bit here and there. Secondly, I've never heard a good thing about the original HKS boost controllers. I don't know which part of it is inaccurate though. You may be better off getting another one.

Or u could go for an R33 turbo. They're a straight fit.

There used to be an R33 cruising around Newcastle with clear tail lights. I think it looks good, but I would never do it myself as I feel it kind of spoils the Skyline look.

I just went to put my roof racks on and I noticed they don't say Nissan on them anywhere (unless it's in Japanese, which I can't read), so they MAY not actually be genuine Nissan ones. I was told they were, though and they do fit perfectly.

I haven't got a photo of them, but I'll see what I can do next week.

I found the text I was thinking of. It's from The Sky's The Limit from SDU. 1. Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park. 2. Start engine 3. Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more _this will enter diagnostic mode. 4. Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will enter full diagnostic mode. 5. The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems. 6. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit. 7. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr, or ignition is turned off. HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993 - 1999 11 HICAS control unit 12 HICAS motor power supply not present 13 HICAS motor output not present 21 Vehicle speed sensor not present 22 Steering angle sensor not present 23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present 24 Rear main sensor input not present 25 Rear sub sensor input not present 31 Parking brake sensor input not present 32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present (Manual) Neutral switch input not present 33 Engine speed signal not present

I've forgotten where I read this, so it may be slightly wrong. Basically you turn the car on and turn the steering wheel left and right a few times and then pump the brake a few times. Some people say you have to then move the car forward, but I didn't have to do that. It should start the rear wheels moving (you'll feel it). If it doesn't work the first time, keep trying. You'll get some light flashing on your dash if you have error codes. I get error codes 22 and 32 - no idea how to fix them though.

After you've done it, put the car into HICAS diagnostics mode and you'll be able to see the HICAS doing it's stuff from outside the car. There's no way it will affect it I think, but it's always cool to watch your wheels twitching away

94 CC lancer coupe. I sold it to some guy who drove all the way from Sydney just to have a look at it for some reason. It wasn't even a particularly good deal. He loved it - I thought it was a shitbox.

That's really weird. My O2 sensor is totally dead (ie reads 0V permanently), but I've got great economy. I've got a SAFC though, which I suppose works off the AFM. Can anyone tell me when the ECU uses the AFM and when it uses the O2 sensor? Or is it always using both?

My R33 came with roof racks. They're apparently an option from the factory. I've never used them, but they fit perfectly (as you'd expect from the factory). I may be interested in selling them if someone makes a nice offer...

Endorean, are you sure that wasn't the VQ35 rather than VG35? Also, I thought I heard Nissan were going to publicly state more than 206kw this time.

Thanks for the info, Sydneykid. I think I might pass on the cam upgrade then. If I had the time and the cash I would have bought all of them, installed and compared them on the dyno. Cheers, Michael