dojobi

I'd say they'd defect you for it, but you could probably get off the charge later at the RTA. It'll still cost you the $75 charge to clear your name though. Haven't you ever wished you didn't have a externally vented bov? I often do if I'm travelling in relatively slow traffic. It'd be nice to be able to turn the sound off it you don't want it that day. I'd be switching it all the time.

white = company car Actually I suppose it isn't that bad, but I reckon you should check out some black lines before you choose white. It suits Skylines so well, and I am not biased at all as I have a red one.

Check these bovs out. They're awesome. Go to http://www.gfb.com.au then select the stealth FX. Totally adjustable from full venting to full plumb back. I wish I hadn't bought my GFB Hybrid now, as these are exactly what I wanted.

Yeah I agree with Merli, it's dangerous enough racing in separate lanes, but lane split racing is VERY dangerous. That said, I still think it's ok to give it a little squirt when you take off. Just not too much.

I've never raced a moto to be honest. One word of advice - don't ever try it against one of the big engined Japanese bikes though (750cc+). No chance at all. Those things are quick as.

adam, why don't you like the ecstas? I've got them on mine - and in the dry they're awesome.

I have HICAS error codes 22 and 32, and I've got permanently heavy steering, but no HICAS light on ever. Anyone know how to fix this? EDIT: My car also has the sideways movement over bumps too. It's really annoying. Even driving on a slightly bumpy road gives my arms a workout trying to keep it steady.

or you could finish off both the space saver tyre and the bad one as fatz suggests. That'd be cheaper than wrecking the good one.

If it bogs, then you've got no problem, but if they get their launches down pretty well (and don't break the gearbox ), then you're in a bit of trouble. Top end is not much of a contest vs a stock rex.

Thanks, I'll have a look there.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's a wiring problem, as I had the whole thing rewired when it burnt out. The thing is though, when the steering wheel is turned hard, power steering kicks in. This would mean the right wire is attached. It makes it a bitch to drive in relatively smooth curves in the road as I can't always tell when the power steering will kick in. Randy, I haven't checked it out as I thought someone here might have been able to just say "it's the XX sensor on your steering rack". I might have to take it in to a place like Whiteline if I can't resolve it myself. Has anyone looked at their steering rack? Are there any sensors on it at all? Cheers, Michael

hehe thanks Timmy

Yeah I think I might go and post it at SDU. There seems to be more general knowledge about this kind of stuff over there. It's probably because the Kiwis have a bigger and older Skyline scene than us.

Anyone? Any help would be appreciated. Even if you've had a seemingly unrelated problem with steering/HICAS, I'd like to know about it so I can at least get an understanding of what kind of things go wrong with the steering.

Damn. I'd swear I put this in the maintenance section. Sorry admins.

Hi all, I've been having this problem for about 6 months now, but I've been too lazy to fix it. Basically I've got incredibly heavy steering - almost like I've got no power steering - and when I turn the steering wheel slowly, the revs don't rise like they used to. The fluid levels are fine, so it's not that. I had Mark at Hills hook it up to his little diagnostic machine and he said some sensor for the steering was screwed and not sensing properly (possbily on the steering rack? I can't remember). Does anyone know what this sensor is? This all seemed to happen when my wiring burnt out and I had to get it replaced (the guy in Japan did the DODGIEST wiring on his gauges). I've also got error codes 22 and 32 for my HICAS which is kind of bad too I'm sure. I'd also like to get rid of that. Anyone know? I read a thread a while back that said if some wire from the speedo to somewhere else was missing, then the HICAS would give error codes. Does anyone know about this either? Sorry for all the questions Cheers, Michael

GFB make excellent bovs. They've got a new one out like their hybrid one, except it's adjustable. ie you can make it fully plumbback, fully venting to atmo or somewhere in between. Very good idea if you ask me.

I'm not sure if it's the same as the DynoJet ones in the US, but they can compensate for altitude. It might be something like that. It may have some sort of temperature compensation.

Damn, I just wrote this whole thing out in another thread in the performance section. Anyway, I'll post it again, so if it's wrong I can get flamed twice Shootout mode is meant to be used to compare figures between cars. It locks the roller ramp rate, and it can't be modified at all, so you can be sure that any car measured with it can have its power accurately compared with any other one tested with it. Now, from what I've heard, it adds around 10% to what you would normally get on a properly set up dyno, so 203kw really is around 184kw (A damn good result considering you've got a stock ECU, benm). That said, you can't really just take off the 10% extra to compare with people run in non-shootout mode, as this opens you up to differences in how the non-shootout mode dyno was set up. So, if you want to compare figures use shootout mode, but be aware that the figures are inflated. Cheers, Michael

Should be fine for basic mods, but if you do start to get some serious power going then you may want to consider something aftermarket. Mine started leaking as soon as the boost went above stock, but apparently that's rare. You could buy a GFB plumbback bov if you're worried about being defected. They are not defectable, and can handle quite a bit of power.

Shootout mode is meant to be used to compare figures between cars. It locks the roller ramp rate, and it can't be modified at all, so you can be sure that any car measured with it can have its power accurately compared with any other one tested with it. Now, from what I've heard, it adds around 10% to what you would normally get on a properly set up dyno, so 203kw really is around 184kw (A damn good result considering you've got a stock ECU, benm). That said, you can't really just take off the 10% extra to compare with people run in non-shootout mode, as this opens you up to differences in how the non-shootout mode dyno was set up. So, if you want to compare figures use shootout mode, but be aware that the figures are inflated. Cheers, Michael

Also make sure you go to a good tuner. If you can't quite meet your kilowatt target, don't push it too hard. You'll be hard pressed to notice the difference between 195rwkw and 200rwkw. I'd take a safe 195rwkw engine over a 200rwkw hand grenade engine with really lean AF ratios.

I reckon you'll need full engine management to get up to the 190-200rwkw mark (non shootout mode that is). To get that kind of power without major mods to the engine, you'll need to push the turbo hard. I've only got 177rwkw with most of the mods below, but I'm just using a SAFC and a bleeder. So you'd probably need something like the following: Big FMIC 14psi using an EBC Full exhaust Power FC (or other full computer) CAI with a pod filter, or a really good panel filter which may not be possible with a FMIC) possibly an adjustable ex cam gear - although I feel it hurt my bottom end too much. Feel free to correct me anyone

QIK78U, I don't think I'll need you to get me a DIN tray now, but thanks anyway. Apparently the Z32 ones fit, so I'll just pick one of them up. Cheers, Mic

It's not impossible. If you get enough of a run up and you're going down hill...