dojobi

It does affect it slightly, as the standard tubing off the intercooler piping returns the air the same way the bov does, but a bleeder will just vent it. I can't work out why I need a restrictor, but I would say the GFB bleeder is just not designed for Skylines. I believe GFB primarily make their products for WRXs. I would say they use a very small amount of air to open the wastegate (light spring), so the GFB bleeder would only have to leak a small amount of air to open it, hence making it not work correctly on a Skyline.

I would say those mods aren't quite enough to get to 200. Maybe 180-190. For 200 I'd say you need this. FMIC Full engine management (A SAFC isn't enough I reckon) Full exhaust 14psi boost or so (preferably an EBC) Boxed pod filter with CAI I'm not so sure on the fuel pump. From what I've heard you should be ok at 200rwkw. Any more and you'll want one. You could also go for an adjustable cam gear to fatten up your curve. I have a dyno graph from a supra with the gears and it made a huge difference. Also, you have to remember all dynos are different. Cheers, Michael

That was my take on the point of a bleeder too, but since this one can't bleed enough air, I have to use other methods to lower the presssure the actuator sees. So the restrictor will give me a lower starting point to bleed from.

yeah I've got it. It works well. At first I couldn't stand the induction noise as it has to be the noisiest pod on the market, but now I like it.

Cool, thanks for the advice guys. I've got a big front mount, so I should be fairly safe I feel, but I'll make sure the turbo is well protected from spikes. I think I'll try and make a restrictor tonight. Once again, thanks for the help Warpspeed. Cheers, Michael

same here Sorry about that. I was just defending my "band aid" SAFC

Well I own both the BOVs in question here, and I would say I prefer the noise of the GFB one. I run it in hybrid mode so I don't get overfueling after blowing off (you just replace 1 trumpet with a hose to the return pipe). They're both reasonably loud bovs that do the job - although I've never heard PranK's mounted down there , so I'd say buy it based on the actual sound of it, rather than the loudness. I prefer the GFB on my car, Chillgoon (another guy on the forums) prefers the Blitz. I'd sell you my Blitz if you can get me a bit of pipe that would replace the pipe it's on. I'll put up photos of the pipe and bov if you're interested. I have a FMIC now so, it's just sitting in my parts box, as I had to remove it for the different FMIC piping. Cheers, Michael

OK, I understand what you're saying about how it all works, I think. The concept of bleeding off the air is quite clear in my head (I hope), but I think I may not be understanding what a restrictor actually is. Is it just something in the tubing that reduced the cross sectional area of the pipe. If so, then this all makes sense. The t-piece shouldn't be need at all if everything is inline, as long as the bleed is after the restrictor. Thanks for explaining all this to me btw Cheers, Michael

Inasnt: it DOES change the A/F ratios. It just does it by tricking the ECU into thinking less/more air is coming in at any point in time than really is. Because of that, it adjust the amount of fuel it gives it. The only reason a retuned ECU would be better is because you can change things other than the air/fuel ratios like ignition timing. If you just did the fueling on the ECU though, it would be just as good.

Razo sticker, LOL. I find my SDU sticker hurts my economy so I'll be removing it soon.

mrthorpedo: Thanks for the tip - I'll check the BOV out. I did install it myself, so there probably is a fairly good chance it isn't on properly Warpspeed: Thanks for the explanation. There's just one thing I'm not quite understanding though, and that's how the restrictor works. If the only bit that lets air escape is the bleed valve, then how can the restrictor cause the pressure to be any lower. You said that if the bleed valve is fully closed then I'd have stock boost, but if that's the case then how would it change anything when the bleed valve is open? Acutally, I've read it again a few times now - here's how I'm seeing it. Please tell me if it's right. The restrictor is in there to force the air to use the bleed valve as that is the path of least resistance, right? I think my problem is that I just removed the t-piece totally and put the bleed valve in its place. Cheers, Michael

Hmm I'd swear I didn't get a notification about a post here. Wonder why. Anyway, sorry for not getting back to you earlier. I read that article, but I couldn't see anything about a restrictor. I realise my bleeder isn't quite the same as that, but it's just a standard GFB one, so shouldn't it just work like any normal one? I haven't heard of anyone not being able to turn the boost up because the bleeder couldn't leak enough. It's really quite strange. All I want is a bit under 0.9bar and I'll be happy. Chillgoon - you may have shat your pants, but we weren't even at 0.9bar. Wait 'til we hit that, then you can shit them. Cheers, Michael

OK I'd say that's my problem then. I've got no restrictor. I've just removed the T-piece in the line and put the bleeder in it's place. I blocked off the other bit that goes to the metal thing (I assume this is the solenoid). So what do I actually need to do with this restrictor. Can you give me some more info please? Cheers, Michael

I'm having a little trouble with this new GFB bleed valve I bought. I did all the gradual turns and it was slowly turning the boost up, but when I went to get 0.8 bar, I realised the bleeder couldn't open up anymore. Does anyone know why? I've got all the right breathing and cooling mods for the engine, so there should be no problem there. My boost gauge read 0.5 bar before I put it in, so I'm fairly sure it's accurate. Any ideas? Cheers, Michael

I had no idea they were that small Duncan And the yellow lights? I'm removing mine for the extra 5kw. Akeenan - Yeah I realised that mine was screwed, as it used to work. Now I have to park in Aussie size spots

I suppose you'd have to climb out of your sunroof after you've squeezed into that VERY tight park?

Actually I've always wondered why they fold in (my left one doesn't though). What is the use of it?

I'm in the 450-500 per tank bracket too. I have a long drive to work which is mainly 80 and 100 zones, which definitely helps. I'm getting my SAFC tuned soon, which should hopefully improve things even more. When I was at the CAMS license day I was getting 300km to a tank.

have you had your turbo high flowed?

Matt, Yeah I probably could spend it better. I am happy with what I've got though. I just thought it might be an easy and cheap way to get some extra power, but I guess it was not to be.

Damn, that is a huge increase, NismoGTSX. I might have to reconsider it. I'd talked myself out of it, but this is good to hear. Have you got any more details of your mods? dAVE: I didn't notice your comment to me about Merli. Thanks for the tip. I've just spoken to him about it actually.

Don't write off the series 1 just yet. If I was buying mine again and could afford either, I'd still go for the series 1. Here's my reasoning in no particular order: * Headlights. In my opinion the s1 lights look way better as they don't go flat along the top. GTRs kept the S1 look, even when the S2 was available, and they look damn good. I'm not sure if the s2 lights are brighter though, so that could be in its favour. * Turbo. Stronger etc etc. Already mentioned above. * Seats. Maybe I'm just weird, but I really prefer the s1 seats. Mine looks like it is brand new, so I'm probably biased because of this. I agree with the others on the body kit bits. The stock S2 kit looks a lot nicer. My car always had a 400R front bar and GTR wing, so it didn't affect me. Besides a stock kit is pretty rare anyway. I reckon it's HARDER to find a stock example. Just my opinion anyway Cheers, Michael

I'm not so sure of the N1 GTS either, but there was a special version of it. There's a pic floating around from a catalogue that shows a higher power version.

SkylineMannen: I really have no idea. Sorry . I'm not really much good with the design of parts, but I'd suggest copying one of the big brands. Marcus: I've seen them go for between $700 and $4000. There's a lot out there. With regards to the cylinders, I agree that 1 and 6 would not be fed as well as the others, but I'm not so sure how much it would make a difference with an engine like mine. ie not heavily tuned, so the inner cylinders would not be sucking all the air. (Please remember I am not an engine guru) I think with a front feed would be better for the intercooler piping, but the back cylinder would have to miss out on a bit of the air. I'm not sure though, so this is probably best left to the experts. We are talking turbo cars here, so it is compressed air, which would have to help feed them all. Re Carbon Fibre - no idea. It'd look sweet though Cheers, Michael

Yeah but imagine how much they'll weigh once they go 4WD!!! They'll be pushing 2 tonne unless they do something about it.