533 RYC

I bought a set of fleabay H4 LED globes, 9000 lumens. When they turned up they were only 4000 lumens. Got my money back. I fitted them out of interest, and found buzzing through the radio from the cooling fans in the globes. Bought a set of 55w HIDs, never looked back! Just saying.....

Before touching ANY airbag circuitry, disconnect both positive & negative battery terminals & wait 5-10 minutes before disconnecting anything. Not doing so can cause issues. The majority of airbag components/systems MAXIMUM resistance is 4 Ohmns. Anything over this will result in a fault. Its likely damage has occurred to the seat belt SRS ram (pyrotechnic device) when you changed your seats.

Put me down please Matt!

School holidays are here again! WooHoo!!! If you have rust like that, it will fail, regardless of whether it is structural or not. IT'S RUST!!!!

I haven't read the door switch reset, but knowing alot about airbag systems & how they work, it looks like you have a clockspring coil issue or an airbag issue. Q1: Did YOU replace the steering wheel or pay a shop to? If you did it, did you disconnect BOTH battery terminals & wait 5 minutes for the system to dicharge voltage BEFORE disconnecting any airbag plugs? Q2: Did you use the same airbag, or fit one that came with the replacement wheel? Q3: Was care taken with the clockspring coil, e.g. not turned? Airbag systems are critical systems that operate on resistance. Usually anything above 4 ohms is considered too high & the component should be replaced.

G'day guys, As title suggests for a standard RB30 Cheers.

If you were in western sydney, I'd do them for you.

Welcome Jake! What model R32 is it? To help us answer your questions, post up a few pictures of your car!

While your checking out Unbrako, Have a look at Bumax, if your after the strongest in stainless. It won't rust then!

I had a Gizzmo shift light behind a vent. Great idea, crap shift light.........

THESE: https://ecliptech.com.au/product-category/shifti/ I had one of these on my bike & it was brilliant! They will work on anything!!!

Agree with the above statements, & I'd like to elaborate further on 1 of Alex's points: 3: It's not difficult to defect an interstate car. Just because a car is from another state, doesn't mean it can't be defected. As stated in point 1. It depends on the copper. Any vehicle defected in another state, must have the defect cleared by an inspector from the state the vehicle is registered in.

Years ago on Parra Rd Auburn, 3 car loads of lebos tried to car jack me for R32 at 2am. Dickheads should have waited till they were right in the homemaker centre bit so I had no way out! Shook them off after afew side streets (old factory streets) & parked the GTR for 6 weeks. A high quality alarm/immobiliser with anti carjacking is the go. They get 45 seconds down the road, it shuts down & your safe & on the phone to the law. These sort of alarms are not that expensive, I know. The question is, how much do you want to keep your car?

It could also be the coilpack harness. These fail also. They are around $80 new.

Oh excellent. Glycol does bad shit to electrics. I would recommend removing the starter, give it & the wiring connectors a good clean with a can of brakeclean, then repeat the process again with (now this gets a bit expensive) CRC CO Contact cleaner (about $35 a can) it washes away most stuff & leaves no residue, then floor test the starter before refitting. Its still cheaper than getting someone to open it up or a replacement!

Same low pressure readings for adjacent cylinders USUALLY indicates a leak between cylinders. It would take a SERIOUS overheat to warp across 3 cylinders like that. There are a few other possibilties though. Lack of compression in the areas between the cylinders due to: Original headgasket & head bolts. Years of heat up, cool down, head bolts don't like that, & will eventually give up. Higher boost levels with original gasket & bolts. Q: Which 2 injectors did you change? When they were leaking & when trying to start the engine, did it ever sound like it hydraulic locked (rrr-clunk)? Have you had the rocker covers off to check the camshafts? Has 1 snapped? It wouldn't be a first time.

Maybe you can tell us where the coolant is pooling, or even better take pictures & post them up! As Sinista32 said, other weak points might now be making themselves known. If it is the welch plugs leaking again, there are 2 ways to fix them: 1: Do them again, making sure all surfaces are CLEAN & FREE of old krud. Use a decent sealant, like No.3 when installing them. 2: I'm not mentioning on a public forum like this. A mate of mine use to use this process after popping welch plugs to check head studs on Jags. Worked 100%!

Everyone has missed your second line Jake. For most 180k speed cut devices, when wired in, require the installer to cut the signal wire to the ECU. The fact that they just cut the wiring when they stole the speed meter, the ECU isn't getting the signal it should, hence the engine light. Q: Does the speedo/odometer still work? I just googled 'Pivot speed meter installation instructions' & checked out the PDF. You need to cut the speed signal wire for the 180k speed limiter. This most likely why the engine light is on. If you connect the White & Green wires together, clear the codes as per the provided link by Bob (KiwiRS4T) you should be sweet. Make sure you insulate all exposed wiring with electrical tape & tidy it up.

Cheers Duncan, answered my question. They can be a bastard to get out, need the right length prybar from the top & pop! Easy as! Jiffo & Andre, I did the right hand inner boot last weekend & I was surprised when the shaft came out with no circlip on it. After doing over 100 other shafts, that's never happened to me before! I inspected & spied the circlip still in the groove in the carrier. I contemplated taking the diff cover off & trying to retrieve it, but quickly realized this would be a wasted effort. I refitted the shaft, reassembled all components, dropped it down & checked the shaft. All was good, no movement. I monitored it for a few days & I visually check it every few days till I'm confident it's all good. So, don't stress too hard, If Duncan says it meant to be like that, then so be it. Thanks Duncan.

LAST CHANCE BEFORE ITS REMOVED FROM SALE!!!!!

LAST CHANCE BEFORE ITS REMOVED FROM SALE!!!!!

LAST CHANCE BEFORE ITS REMOVED FROM SALE!!!!!

Tell me about it Glyn!

Yes, the ECU gets it signal from the CAS, the ECU drives the Tacho. The speedo gets it's signal from the gearbox output shaft, the same place as the ECU. The wheel speed sensors are traced back to the ABS/Attessa ECU. The only time the ENGINE ECU references WSS is during traction loss (traction control for rear wheel drive only).

I know *sigh* another one