533 RYC

You will need to remove cams to check spring heights correctly. Recessed/leaking valves will give low comp readings wet/dry hot or cold. A torched valve will give the closest to zero reading, providing the rings/lands are in good nick. Either way the head has to come off & checked before you decide to pull the whole lot out as #6 is f%#ked. Question 1: Why was the turbo replaced? Question 2: How many K's has your engine done? You state its white smoke coming from the exhaust. Does it smell sweetish like glycol/coolant? Have you had any coolant loss? If you run over 12-14psi, have you done a head stud conversion?

Sorry, off topic, but, Giulian I might know you. EFX??

My S2 RS4S also shudders when the attessa engages. Before my clutch change I searched & searched SAU for the part # for power steering fluid special which is KLF30-0004 (the 4 determines the size of the container in litres) which Nissan only recommends for the use as the correct fluid for attessa actuation. Nissan doesn't have a listing for that part #. The closest they could give me was Jap spec power steering fluid KLF50. The old fluid that i bled out was a gold colour. Bled the new fluid right through, & shudder was still evident upon road test. I suspect there might be excess slack in the drive chain which causes the shudder, as grip to the front in the wet is perfect, so clutch packs are doing their job. Nissan Matic D was used in the transfer case, without any change to the shudder effect. Ideas anyone???

^^^for me too! My 260RS Kakimoto cat back (bought from Fatz) hangs waaaayyyy too low & needs to be modified to suit my RS4S. At least it protects my Super Hicas actuator!!!

Good score for $200 Johnny for the amount of work involved! I'm assuming (I hardly ever do this, as assumations are the mother of all f#%kups) that your talking about exhaust studs. Now is the time to replace the lot with new 316 stainless studs, nuts & flat washers. I'd also recommend using nickel based anti-seize to facilitate easier removal further down the track, however, DO NOT over torque the nuts, as when anti-seize is used will result in over torquing, unless it has been factored into the torque specifications. I generally reduce torque by 25%, if not factored in by manufacturers specs due to the lubricating properties of it. The most common brand sold is Unasco Nickel anti-seize compound.

I have the same comment for Abdul's post as well. I call them TOWNIES, because they don't get out of town very often & they forget that its a $220 fine here in NSW for failing to keep left, unless overtaking. If only the boys in blue would book them more often, they would relieve ALOT of tension on the roads & reduce accidents, especially during holiday times......

Does the 4wd light come on? Have you tried removing the front shaft (transfer case to front diff)? You'll need a 12mm ring spanner ground down a little around the outside of the ring to fit over the nuts so you don't round them off. Then spin the front wheels by hand.

LOL, if everyone says no, then please dont tell my wife! Sorry, should have said 'axis' (not 'axis of evil') instead of 'orbit'. Significant quakes shift the axis alittle each year. Geophysics has been a hobby of mine for the last 10 years, especially the Pacific Rim. Anyone can check this stuff out at either: http://www.usgs.gov/ or http://www.ga.gov.au/

Earthquakes large enough have the ability to slighly alter the earths orbit, happened last year. Don't worry Terry, they'll realign the satellites soon.

I'd bar the engine over to TDC #1 before removing CAS (its good practice). Also, switch your heater to max hot before turning the engine off, as this will help when bleeding the cooling system later. The 'steering wheel puller' Duncan pictured is the way to go, so as not to damage the pulley/rubber of the balancer. If the load bolt (the one that goes through the center of the puller) is shortened, there's no need to remove the radiator. There's no need to apply threadlocker to the water pump bolts. They are small bolts. If you overkill the threadlocker, the next time you have pull it off,you might snap the bolts. DO NOT EVER USE ANY TYPE OF HAMMER TO TAP THE TIMING BELT ON!!! Before removing your OLD timing belt, check your NEW belt. If it has 3 white lines across the outside of the belt, they are alignment markings for fitting the NEW belt. If there are none marked on the NEW belt, then get a permanent marker (preferably a white paint pen) & mark the teeth then correspond to the cams/crank alignment marks on the inner timing cover & oil pump. Remove the old belt & draw a line across the width of the outside of the belt at the marked timing points. Count all the teeth on the old belt, place a dot at intervals of 10 teeth. Do the same on the NEW belt, making sure there are the same amount of teeth as the OLD belt. The first part of fitting a timing belt is sometimes the hardest part, due to the cams moving alittle due to valve spring tension, as you might notice when removing the old belt they move a bit. Don't be too concerned. It should go on if evenly pushed on all the way around. It will require a bit of strength to get it on, but it will go once you get it half the thickness of the belt. Getting the first half of the new belt on all the sprockets, idler & tensioner can be a bit hard, but it will go on by hand. DO NOT OVER TENSION THE BELT! It will cause premature wear of the sprockets & pulley bearings. If your replacing the water pump, its good practice to refill your cooling system to check for leaks BEFORE fitting the timing belt, you don't want to put it all back together & have to pull it apart again (there are some dodgy pumps that come in the eBay kits). When bleeding the cooling system, use a 2L coke bottle with the very bottom cut off, tape as described in OP. fill cooling system with the bleeder removed, you want to get as much air out from behind the thermostat BEFORE starting the engine! Start & run the engine, while monitoring the outside of the top radiator inlet with your finger/thumb. When it warms up, the thermostat is open, & all should be good. Take for a SHORT drive around the block, then lift the bonnet & have a good look around. Hope this extra helps, good luck!

If you ring just about any workshop & say: head gasket, timing belt, clutch, starting $$$ will be around $6-700. All are time consuming & tie up a hoist or work bay for a day or more. For a timing belt on an RB, balancers are on a taper (my RB20 was-modified my puller rather than removing my radiator), then if they find weeping/leaking cam/crank seals, its more time & $$$. If the parts supplied are genuine, most workshops will be more than happy to take on the job. If they are eBay parts, you might pay more in the labour, due to the possible failure factor. I only use genuine parts. I've worked in the industry long enough to respect quality. Aftermarket tend to deviate from OEM design to save money. I'd be happy to do the job for you at my house, PM me what you want done & when.

Linking the clamps as previously stated is a good idea. If your going to go to the trouble of beading/barbing pipe connections, why not go that one step further while its all apart & weld on bosses on each connection, fabricate brackets & bolt the pipe connections together, then you will never have them blow off again....

I know & understand the processes & finer points of balancing an engine, as I build engines. Replacing a flywheel is all well & good as long as it is zero-balanced. Most manufacturers will either dowel a flywheel to a crank, or, eccentric bolt a flywheel to a crank for the purpose of balancing. In some cases this is done for timing purposes (Rodeo V6, as the crank trigger is on the flywheel) My flywheel is dowelled.

100% agree with you on that. Vibration Dampener is the correct terminology. As for for shocks, they should be called Oscillation Dampeners. Firstly, sorry to iwanta34gtr for hijacking his thread, this discussion needs it's own thread. Again, bottom end balancing should be carried out as a complete rotating assembly, correct? If you dramatically change 1 part (eg reduce your flywheel weight by half - lets say 6kg), will it not throw out the balance of the bottom end? Yes it will. Dual mass flywheels are designed to deliver a smoother power delivery with less vibration, correct? So ineffect, do dual mass flywheels in a way, function the same as a vibration dampener? I would say yes. So, by removing the dual mass flywheel & fitting a single mass flywheel are you ineffect allowing a higher torsional frequency to occur at certain points in the rev range? I think so, hence my original statement. Adam, why would you only balance a rotating assembly if it was externally balanced? Any rotating assembly should be balanced regardless of how it is balanced!

As long as those three gaps are fairly equal, it will be pretty much spot on. This the first time I've actually used an alignment tool (the apprentice did a clutch in his 33 & I thought I'd give it a go).

The aligning tool I used wasn't perfect either. You have to feel & equal the distance between the clutch & pressure plate through the three gaps where the pressure plate springs attach to the diaphragm. Tighten the bolts up evenly & oppositely. Make sure you can move the aligning tool a few times to make sure it moves.

had the same problem, as my starter motor moulding was fouling on the tunnel. Had to get really close, then rotate it to position at the last minute to line up & pop in. Did you use a clutch aligning tool or by feel?

Sorry Adam. The majority engines are internally balanced, to a degree. However, there are some factors that have a direct effect upon this. The length of the crankshaft vs the length of the stroke & offset at a given maximum RPM will determine whether external balancing and/or balance shafts are/is required, for the demands/loads the engine will experience, depending on the extent & level that internal balancing has been carried out to. example: MOST mass produced, shorter stroke 4 cylinder engines, when balanced INTERNALLY, don't produce enough torsional frequency when balanced to require external balancing for the type of duty they are designed for, hence they only have a crankshaft pulley. When the length of the crankshaft increases (and whether its an inline or vee engine), so does the torsional frequency. The torsional frequency produced is also dependant on the Ignition system & firing order. Internal balancing will only reduce torsional frequency to a certain point, then, another way has to be introduced to minimize the possibility of crankshaft breakage, hence, a harmonic balancer is added to lessen the frequencies to an acceptable level. Some manufacturers, like Honda, incorporate a balance shaft mounted below the crankshaft (gear/chain driven) to remove a small amount of vibration between afew hundred RPM. Other manufacturers like Mitsubishi use up to two balance shaft that counter rotate to eliminate vibration. The dirty old 3.8L Buick V6 had a balance shaft in the valley & a harmonic balancer! A good way to learn about this area is to talk to a vibration analysis expert. Chat to a company that deals with condition monitoring, they can tell you all about torsional frequency. So, back to my question, does anyone know the weight difference between an R33 & R34 GTR harmonic balancer?? might ring JEM tomorrow & get an answer.....

Hey Bryce, im doing it too today on my Stagea. I know the bolt your talking about, mine was even worse (GTR box is longer)! The box should start to separate with abit of a wiggle, if not, you must have missed one.

Yes they are, as nearly all engines are. What is the weight difference between an R33 GTR & R34 GTR harmonic balancer? I bet they aren't the same. When balancing bottom end rotating assembly, everything is needed. Rods, balancer, flywheel & clutch assembly. Making large weight changes over what it was designed to operate with can introduce excessive torsional frequency changes, more than what the balancer can remove, which can lead to premature bearing failure & the worst case scenario of crankshaft breakage. Remember, every action has an opposite reaction. Just because you can't see it, doesn't mean its not happening....

sneaky little buggers. By rights, by swapping to a SMF, bottom end rebalancing should be carried out. Are the R33 & R34 crankshafts the same? Is it a matter of fitting an R33 balancer when swapping from DMF to SMF? Dan, any ideas as to the weight difference between the two?

Tsukuba is my least favourite track, too much low RPM, low gear, need more WOT, fast corners to push grip levels! There are plenty of other good circuits like Grand Valley, Deep Forrest, Motegi etc....

SOLD.

SOLD

^ THIS! Where did the dual mass flywheel come from? I can definately see Nissan using one as a performance limiting device, & to smooth out the torque delivery.