533 RYC

I know Ben, but safety first!

Plazmaman states it does.

As per the original post & subsequent post relating to '2007' rego sticker on the windscreen, as mentioned, I hope your for your sake & the rest of us enthusiasts here that you actually have registration & insurance on that thing...........

Brand new polished PLAZMAMAN NEO top plenum + 72mm throttle body. A mate at work bought it for his conversion into a VL, but fouls on the brake booster, needs a GREDDY style intake instead. Only ever removed from box & sat on lower half of intake, Wasn't bolted up, only just sat there. Retail: $1500 Sell: $1200 His mistake is your win! 0402 604 443

It's an awesome microtech bro!

this is more than likely your rev limiter, ooorrr does your ECU let it rev to 10,000RPM? That's why you have fuel cut.

When this is done, they are called exhaust systems. Exhaust shops do this kinda work everyday! Seriously dude, swallow your mentioned pride & take it to an exhaust shop & get them to plumb the wastegate pipe into your down pipe. While your there, have them install a cat converter & intermediate muffler to keep the busies & the neighbours happy!

PM sent.

You all don't know what your on about. The BIGGEST boost leak on an RB is from the little black round container behind the LEFT headlight, the charcoal canister. While eliminating the intercooler will fix the cam cover leak, eliminating the charcoal canister will stop the over fuelling. You see, when the turbo comes on (boost leaks from the cam covers at this point), boost pushes through the charcoal canister (which filters the boost & mixes with fuel vapour) through to your fuel tank to pressurize it, which makes the turbo REALLY REALLY laggy.

Go to the doctors dude, over here we have a pill named Champix. Friggin Awesome! I smoked for 20 years!!

Dammit again! just found this, wife's xmas party tonite! DAMN DAMN DAMN! Terry, book me in for all events next year, work & wife will have to get by without me!

LOL! Richard, do you smoke in your R32? (quietly I don't think you do) High quality Ionisers are good. The wife's Cube has a factory one. Never had to do an A\C treatment yet, even after spilt baby bottles! Wish my wagon had one..... Best way to get the smell out of it, don't smoke in it anymore & keep the A\C treatments up over the summer. Auto Glym do a good one (autobahn are stockist).

Yes & no. It will be more pronunced when warm due to the increased clearance between the valve stem & guide. When does it start running like crap? When the smoke starts? A mate of mine had an R33 GTST. He bought it running rough. Ended up pulling the head. Found little divots/scallops in the top of the liners from valve contact as most of the valves/guides were worn. He did the head up & did an RB30/25 combo.

Very hard to say. I've seen the threaded rod fail during jacking. The standard jacks are not that strong. It might pay to buy a cheapish set of stands, just to be safe.

Sorry, re-read OP. I'd bet on the valve stem seal failing from possibly a worn valve & guide, as per the symptoms of running like shit the last couple of weeks. How many k's on the engine? Boost levels? Type of oil used?

The amount of oil in the cylinder would have masked the comp test results. If its a failed oil control ring, the extent of failure won't be known until the piston & rod are removed. Be careful, as a worst case scenario, piston can pickup on the liner & break the piston, liner & your engine. You could inspect & replace valve stem seals. First step, I would be boreoscoping the cylinder with the piston at BDC to check the liner for evidence of the piston picking up.

One of our apprentices recently bought an R33 GTST. It has a 2-5/8'' LIQUID FILLED boost gauge screwed to the upper left corner of the steering column shroud. I wondered why the previous owner had forked the extra for the liquid? Wheel balance issues? brake shudder maybe? No, it was bigger than that. The liquid is to smooth out the violent shaking from the engine overheating & sh#tting itself, because the boost gauge completely obstructs the temp gauge! I pointed this out to the apprentice 5 months ago, boost gauge is still there..........

This is the silliest idea ever! Car thief beats the alarm system's 3 interrupts, then has a point to start your car, any turbo timer fitted. Turbo timer gives a thief the three things it needs to start your pride & joy: 1. Power 2. Accessories 3. Ignition May as well just hand your keys over! Turbo timers are the biggest wank PERIOD!!

Find the leak & fix it..........

LOL COPYCAT!

Hey Nick. 4 teeth are a worry. Not sure how many teeth it takes for piston to valve contact, but that could be a possibility....... As for the idling issue, if it's not the AAC, then I reckon you could have an intake leak (as long as the issue above is rectified without being related). Was it a complete engine you bought or just a long engine? Carrying out timing checks & sweeps on these things can be alittle tricky. Did you follow the guides from the DIY sections?

Good onya Shaun. Good to hear you sussed it out!

ROFL! Yeah, they are a bitch!!!! Remember Trial & Error. OK, as for the 10psi, it's most likely a hose/fitting issue. Worst case, maybe the wastegate diaphragm wasn't happy with it. I'd recommend sussing out the cause, just so you know in case of any further arising issues.

Hey Tim, Yes you do need to use the supplied Tee piece! That first guide looks like it for an R33. Follow the install guide for the boost controller & you should be right. The position for the gauge is perfect. As for why you have 10psi now, you might have a leak somewhere through your refitment of the factory setup. My strong advice is to save up & buy an electronic boost controller. Its the best protection for a stock engine running close to the fuel cut without a fuel cut defender!!!!

Check out the first link I put up. You'll see a small 3 way Tee. That has the ball & spring 'in built'. The ball & spring are on the wastegate side of the Tee (hence the arrow indicating the direction of boost pressure travel). The controller is essentially a gate that bleeds a pre-determined (by how much the adjuster is turned) amount of boost off, BEFORE boost pressure overcomes spring tension & the ball lifts off it's seat to allow pressure to the wastegate. If you do not have the Tee fitted, it ain't going to work (as per OP picture). The boost TEE is missing from the picture. I dont know if you can get those controllers with the ball 'in built' with the gate, I doubt it. The manual set up I bought came with a note, telling me to ignore the arrow, as It had been incorrectly printed. Quality. A quick blow into the Tee will tell you which way to install it. Anyway, those gated boost controllers are pretty crap. A better boost controller/bleeder is the old way to do it if you want more boost on a budget. Go & buy afew different sized T-fittings, experiment by trial & error, drill 'em out till you get where you need to be, with little boost spike! LOL