533 RYC

Hey Tim. If you installed your manual boost controller as per the pic, then I'm not surprised it didn't work. By looking at the picture, there seems to be a piece missing. Which forum guide did you use for the boost controller? I'd had purchased one of these about 8 months ago: http://e4eonline.com/VUL_MOT/NEW_BC/KIT_400.jpg You seem to be missing the Tee from your install (by the way the controller is setup in the pic). I didn't like the manual set up, as I found there was not alot of control when cruising if I wanted to put my foot down . Boost spike was a real issue, & I hit fuel cut twice. I then bought one of these & have NEVER looked back: https://www.gfb.com.au/products/boost-controllers/g-force-ii-electronic-boost-controller-by-gfb I bought it off EBAY for about $280 from MRT Performance. Fantastic, set & forget...... The install was pretty straight forward too. I know the Jap ones are really good, but i cannot justify spending $700+ for a daily commute.

Where's the front mount gunna go?

How much pressure was used for the test? Was oil used? How long was each cylinder tested under pressure? 10% loss is the Maximum you want to see on a leakdown test. 15% loss is a Fail on that cylinder. I don't see how a malfunctioning AAC valve could cause positive crankcase pressure, unless someone has majorly cocked up afew hoses/lines........

LOL......really REALLY??

Yes, a vented catch can would help release pressure. What is the PEAK crankcase pressure being created? There are two concerns using one though: 1. They are illegal 2. You are going to spray oil/dirty whatever is around it. This would only be a short term fix, & if the owner is going to fit bigger turbos as suggested, it will only accelerate failure!

ok, First things first dude: 1. Investigate as to WHY there is NO POWER to the fuel pump! Fix this problem first BEFORE screwing around with anything else or else you are going to create more dramas!!!!!

'Random' ECU was PROBABLY some sort of a piggy back TCM (Transmission Control Module)/big extra Inhibitor switch relay for the engine ECU. Automatic vehicles only. Couldn't bee 100% as I don't own gay autos.

A catch can won't really help, you'll only be increasing the size of your crankcase a little. If a leakdown test fails to show where the problem is, then testing on a dyno to actually measure the crankcase pressure is what will be needed. In my previous post I mentioned a water column measurement: +25" H2O. This is only about 1 PSI. It was an 18 litre 6 cylinder. It didn't take much pressure to lift the dipsticks. Just letting you know even a little pressure loss can do big things. When you do a leakdown test, try to test in KPA not PSI.

+1 Running in a new camshaft requires fast idle for approx 20min (or whatever the manufacturer recommends), then varying load i.e. hills hills & more hills. This also good if it's an overhauled engine, for bedding in rings (low RPM, wide open throttle - to force the rings into the liner).

All turbos, even when new, have play. They need it, for thermal growth & oil pressure (if there is no clearance, no oil can flow). So i tend to giggle when a turbo is advertised as having no play. As a rule of thumb spec, 0.004'' for vertical movement 0.010'' for lateral. These numbers should be used as a guide & taken as maximum values. Its not a good idea to be running a water cooled turbo not water cooled especially a HKS unit (purely $$$ factor wastage incase you crack the centre housing). Was the turbo brand new? Do HKS recommend running an oil pressure restrictor? Do you have one fitted? The most likely scenario is that the dynamic seal on the turbine side has let go. As you back off the throttle, negative pressure develops in the exhaust manifold, allowing/drawing oil past the dynamic seal & into the turbine housing. If the turbo was 2nd hand, the seal might have already crapped itself - even though shaft play was ok. If the turbo was new & you don't have a restrictor if ones needed, then the seal probably has crapped itself

Doing a comp test is all good & well for an N/A application, BUT, what's to say your rings are not responding when boost pressure is applied? The only way to truly cancel out your rings would be to do a cylinder leak down test. I build, run & tune LARGE turbocharged stationary engines. I've encountered this issue before. Customer complained about an oil leak. Discovered to my surprise when going from idle to load @ about +10''Hg (max is 30Hg/14.7psi)) crankcase pressure was going from -.5'' H2O to +25'' H2O & popping both dipsticks along with twin fountains of oil till the rings responded at about +15''Hg then everything would settle down. This particular engine had issues rejecting heat through its heat exchangers, its dump radiators were too small & subsequently had alot of high jacket water temp shutdowns. Piston rings hate heating up & cooling down. if the temps are high enough, over time, they start to lose their tension & don't respond very well to pressure changes. Pressurizing your crankcase to the point of popping the dipstick out can only come from one place. The only other thing I can suggest as 'for the time being' fix is to get a little bit of heat shrink (for wiring), place it over the rubber, heat it & refit your dipstick to stop it popping out. Then just hope you don't start blowing out other seals!

Do it, Spoilers (name speaks for itself) look crap!

Hey Cole, You've mentioned nearly all my ideas. I ran a two bulb setup in my R32, as there was a bulb socket right behind the corner bulge. The only other method I can think of would be to use your turn signal wire to interrupt (via a relay) your marker light circuit. Here in Australia we have to have separate indicator lenses, but over there in the U.S. you guys, on your older cars had the exact set up your after (look at old mustangs & camaros) where the front marker lights & 1 of the tail light lense would flash for indicators. If I were looking at doing the same thing, I would be tracking down & looking at wiring diagrams for vehicles like I mentioned. Failing that, I'd actually try & actually look at a car that has that sort of set up & trace it.. Good luck, It can be done!

'L.E.D. Decoders' are also called 'Load Equalizers'

I've been meaning to try n get through these pages too Glyn, but time isn't on my side. Work work work..... Whiteline sway bars as quoted by Daleo (he does decent prices - I'd recommend contacting him if Whiteline stuff is to be purchased). Front: BNF27Z; 22mm blade adjustable Rear: BR11XXZ; 24mm blade adjustable (this is classed on Whitlines site as Motorsport only) Camber bushes only offer -/+ 0.5 degree either way. So if you have camber issues (I have just under 4 dergees in the front), bushes are not going to help very much. Pillowball setups are pretty much for track use. They are not very bump/pothole friendly & will accelerate wear. I also read somewhere that Neotech (http://www.neosus.co.kr/) arms are very good, twice as thick as stock arms & offer pillow bush or conventional bush type setups. The suppliers here in Oz are Shockworks (http://www.shockworks.com.au/) in Dictoria, SH#T, sorry, *ahem* Victoria. I'll get around to contacting them soon i suppose.

Theres some interesting 'very grey' areas there. I'd suggest to anyone with a vehicle modified within the criteria to keep a copy in their car, to show anyone inspecting the car on the roadside that certain items they think are defective are not (you probably won't win, it'll just make them more angry - especially if you have a rego inspectors ticket & they only have a badge).

+1 We're going to need alittle more info..... Has the brake booster hose been off? There is a one way valve in the hose. What condition is the air filter in? What is the idle like? Does it run abit rich?

Drunk on Fosters, not recommended. PM sent.

Ah ok Scott. Large RWD sedan stuff I used to work on were flat roller.

Very nasty corrosion going on there! Looks like its time for a new module. That'll be the cause of your no start.

Pretty much at any time of their life. Front (Flat) roller bearings require sufficient clamping force (the tightened driveshaft provides this), for correct operation. So, any excessive pressing/hammering/bashing of the shaft to remove it from the hub, will most likely kill the bearing. If, for any reason, the car needs to be moved with the driveshaft removed, the outer cup needs to be removed from the shaft, refitted to the hub & tightened, or bearing failure WILL occur.

Spotted a black M35 parked outside doctors surgery in Gladstone St Merrylands yesterday morning

Spotted another yellow S2 Dayz kitted Stagea turning right off station Rd onto Abbott Rd yesterday around 12.30pm.

Spotted two white S2's while in Adelaide. First one was reversing out of a parking spot in the rear car park of the Hilton Hotel near the airport yesterday arvo about 5.30pm. The second was stopped at the lights on airport Dr at 7am this morning. I waved from out the cab window.

Welchies are not that bad to do. The key to successful repairs on anything is prep work AND cleanliness! Using a sealant like Permatex aviation No.3 is also ideal, especially on an older block.