533 RYC

You mentioned 'reconnecting the bulb holders after they were hacked up for compliance'. Which bulb holders are you talking about exactly & how did you reconnect them? Was this issue evident BEFORE you reconnected the holders? I'd check the earths for the brake light circuit, BUT, if it was the tail/brake circuit you reconnected, it COULD be a resistance issue, but not enough to blow the fuse (unless a higher rated fuse has been fitted). Your alternator output, should be 13.9-14.2v. Recreating the issue, if you stab the brake pedal very very quick, on & off, is it enough to flicker the batt light on on the dash without stalling?

If your located in a capital city, then I'd HIGHLY recommend a company named Hallite for the seals for the 2 halves that don't come in rebuild kits. They stock an enormous range of all compounds & sizes of seals, o-rings etc www.hallite.com And for different types of compounds (also for anyone reading this): www.sealanddesign.com

Anytime. If you go with kitting them out & have never done it before, just post up here & we'll help you out.

Yep one of your pistons sounds like its seized. There are a few things you can do: 1: Crack the bleeder nipple & try & compress it (temp fix till you fix the weep, see step 2). 2: Get a rebuild kit & overhaul both calipers 3: Get two GOOD second hand calipers & fit them.

If your gunna run twin T66s, your gunna need a 750 double pumper in front of each of em. That way you can junk the standard intercooler as it won't be needed.....

LOL, I agree about them never stuffing up Benny, but VX -VZ commodores had recalls on fuel pump assemblies, due to running out of fuel at 1/4 tank! Not having a dig at you Adelaide guys , but they never could get them reading right between the sender & the cluster. Don't stress though, Ford had issues with the LPG gauge calibration vs what the tank gauge use to say. But the Japs have their sh#t down pat, Id also be checking position of the pump.

Wouldn't be hard at all, plenty of stock bits floating around. What are the details surrounding this car? Is it declared as a repairable write off?

^ Yes, Parker Super O Ring lube to be exact!

Check out this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/437614-r33-does-anyone-know-this-one/

So, lets have a Stagea meet & show at Texi then!!!! Good chance everyone for a meet n greet, there will be a sausage sizzle............

If its the same one I'm thinking of, then the car you bought was discussed on here in the last 2 months. Hope you get it all sorted, the more GTR's on the streets the better!

I'm a vertical flow person - cool a larger surface for a short time vs cool a small surface for a long time - Serious track cars run this setup (for arguments sake, pro rotor drag cars that run air to air coolers use very tall coolers that work on the same theory, & they run stupid amounts of boost!) I used the same cooler as Sean, as well as the ordering some of the angled silicon hoses. However, I bought a cheap piping kit off EBay from China. Scotchbrited the lot (to avoid primer), & painted all of it black (cop friendly). I only have a standard Stagea front bar (a Dayz bar would be better) & it protrudes just slightly at the lowest mount point (#10 in OP pics), & I wasn't able to fit the slim under tray between the main one & front bar. Something to look at in the future. I had to relocate the outside air temp sensor to the right side, SLIGHTLY trim the angle egde of the left hand chassis rail (to clear the 45 degree top hose). I replaced the thermo as stated. The stock one won't work unless you chop the hell out of the REO & front bar. The top mount bar setup doesn't work on the Stageas, so set up the mount to bolt between the chassis rails. While doing an oil change today I found the fabbed lower aluminum bracket (#10 in pics) had snapped (my bad, where the bend was located to the radiator support bracket wasn't stress relieved & had rubbed on one corner & broke it clean across the stress bend - Sean, check yours.) I'm making a new one tomorrow out of mild steel flat bar. If anyone doing this has access to an oxy, I'd recommend using mild steel for all the mounts. The volume increase is just shy of double the factory cooler, lag from increased intake tract went from 2200RPM to 2600RPM. This is important when choosing an intercooler for a basically stock setup if you want to retain response. Thanks for the write up Sean, helped me out a lot. I'd recommend this setup for anyone wanting an improved front mount, without it being an in your face setup.

Great work Michael. I miss my old R32.......

Anytime. The NPC single plate organic isn't too bad, I've just ticked over 2,000km on mine, with nowhere near 300wkw.......yet! These clutches are re-stickered Exedy units, so, shop around!

HKS Super Hybrid panel filter is the best I've found. Three layered foam insert (course, medium & fine). Got mine off eBay from a guy in NZ. Someone over here must sell them though. Direct fit into standard air box.

Don't buy a clutch until you know which gearbox your getting, as the R34 is a pull type clutch. I'd recommend trying to get everything from the one car if possible. As for the tranny cooler, put it on EBay. Manuals don't run coolers. Theoretically you could set anything up, but,too much dicking around with finding a spot to draw from, fittings, lines & then there's the matter of a pump.

Awesome! Hope every rider will now do it safely. Now we just need an advertising campaign to let all road users know, so the idiots in cars stop trying to kill us!!!

^ +1 100% agree. Get out there, party hard & bang everything you can while your young (I know I would if I could turn back the clock)! Worry about the GTR when you settle right down or 100% financially stable. You'll have more fun with it then!

Steel Panther-Feel The Steel & Balls Out. Kreator-Pleasure to Kill.

^+1 I read on a thread here, that the word (including pictures) on the Stagea/AWD RB25DET is that the block is direct copy of the RB26DETT, due to the AWD sump not working with the RWD RB25DET block. Apparently the series 2 has the same rods as the RB26DETT as well. The series 2 C34 NEO setup would be the go. 206kw (276bhp) at the crank standard. Turbo spool about 1800RPM full boost about 2200rpm with lots more potential! Don't know what mine is putting out, but I run it at 10.5psi with a decent (GFB G-Force II) electronic boost controller, a HKS panel filter & a Kakimoto 3 1/4" cat back (way to big & not benecificial I know). Nistune is the next thing on the cards, as it's a daily.

ALWAYS loosen the cell caps when charging a battery. A long time ago in a workshop far away......... We had customers bring batteries in for charging. A few times a battery would have a dead cell, either the plates were warped & touching, or the envelope would be stuffed. The result....hydrogen pumping out of the dud cell! The apprentice put a bad battery on charge once without loosening the caps, result was 1 cell was pumping a 3ft white hydrogen plume out of the small breather hole on the cap! One spark with the right ratio & BOOM!!! ALWAYS monitor any battery on charge, don't leave them unattended for long periods!!!!!

Welcome to SAU Blake! Technically the guys are right about driving a GTST minus the T. Keep your head down, don't be too silly & you should be right (unless you get a copper who know how to read a compliance plate). Running a GTST ECU on a NEO N/A is not the best idea. What were the plugs like when you pulled them out? There could be a few things going on here. Yes the ECU could be at fault. You could also have an intake leak somewhere or even an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor causing it to fuel up a bit, but seeings as its thrown a code for the O2 sensor, I'd start there & double check everything else to be safe. Researching the part # on the ECU would be a good thing too.

Need to get this thread back on the first page & back on track. Should we do a last Friday night of every month at Harry's at Orange Grove?

Lol, yeah, I use to live there, & its weird seeing a Stagea parked outside a house, on a typical street in Pomgolia! Welcome to the Stagea owners club!!!!

White LED's wide spead (they have 5 little wedge LED's on the one bulb - search ebay, you'll see what I mean) for the dash. There is an orange filter, so if you want to put blue ones in, you'll have to disassemble the cluster to remove the filters. Start engine, led idle for 30 sec or so, then light load till temp starts to come, then light boost till at normal operating temp. Turbo timers? NAY! BIN IT!!! If you install one, your giving a thief the three wires needed to start your car! Just cruise before you get where you need to be, & if need be, just idle it for 15 or so seconds.