533 RYC

Another lolz thread!!

We use induction heaters for bearings, gears, shafts & achieve the same growth with up to 100 degrees less than using an oven, even when looking at a .003''- .004'' interference. If not using a press, that sort of interference usually requires liquid nitrogen (CO2 will only get you around the .002'' mark), when shrinking is required. Anyone know the interference between the inner race & hub?

my R32 GTST had both from Japan, HOWEVER, I have never seen a GTR with the panel indicators. The high mount brake light is visible at the top of the rear screen in this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418909-has-anyone-seen-my-old-r32/?hl=%2Banyone+%2Bseen+%2Bmy+%2Bold+%2Br32# Side indicator behind front wheel above the 'GT' badge is just visible in this link also: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418909-has-anyone-seen-my-old-r32/?hl=%2Banyone+%2Bseen+%2Bmy+%2Bold+%2Br32# I think you need to get as many pictures of GTR's as you can find (especially the AUS delivered ones) & take them along to your inspector. Also tell him the vehicle meets ADR as it passed compliance (might be a futile arguement though). Good Luck!

A what pipe? Sorry didn't hear you.........

6000k bulbs put out an icy white light with a hint of blue. Sunlight is typically around the 4500k (white spectra), hence why manufacturers use that figure. The higher you go in k number, light quality reduces. 8-10,000k is useless as its in the violet spectra. Not sure why Nissan, in their wisdom went with a spread reflector instead of a projector type lense. In saying that, I converted my R32 to HID with the projector type lense & the the light dispersion was crap, nowhere near as sharp as it was in my E30 BMW (I ran 6500k & halogen high beam on the highway was not needed!). So in saying that, the reflector setup inside the projector has alot to do with how well the transfer of light occurs. From memory, in my C34 S2 they are D1R or D2R 6500k, bought off ebay (china) around 2yrs ago, & still going strong.

Geez, you've really got stuck into it. Good stuff Katz, will be following your thread. Any questions, we're all more than happy to help!

That's bad luck mate. Is the hub bent? Excessive rear camber? Excessive driveshaft angles? The two best ways to fit the hub to new bearing WITHOUT using a press: Ensure your hub is completely clean. 1. Find a workshop that specializes in electric motor rewinds. Get them to use their induction (bearing) heater to heat the bearing & fit the hub. 2. Ring a cryogenics supplier, get 5 litres of liquid nitrogen (around the price of JD) from them in an insulated drink container (like a willow 5lt). Pour liquid nitrogen into a Styrofoam box sufficiently big enough to hold the liquid & the hub. Tie wire around two of the studs so you create two 'handles opposite each other. Drop the hub into the liquid nitrogen. Once the liquid stops bubbling, the hub temp has equalized with the liquid. Pull the hub out & drop it into the bearing. All done & no chance of bearing damage. Now, if you don't have anything else to freeze & fit, experiment by freezing o rings, eggs anything. You can even run your hands through it, just don't leave them in there too long!

jajajajajajajajajajajajaja (Spanish for hahahahahahahahahahahahaha)!!!!!!!!!!

Laaaaaaaagggggggggg

If you are using the single cam head, an important note when fitting the timing belt: The number of teeth on the belt, between the markings on the cam & crank sprockets is 52 teeth. If you have 53 teeth, the cam timing is alittle retarded & power loss is slightly noticable.

Sorry dude, Stageas have them too.

^ agreed. Put them back in, no problems, peace of mind.

Mentioned to Nick on Saturday at the tech arvo the need for more Stagea meet ups, even if its just a carpark meet while the weather is still good, which he agreed with. We should try & meet atleast once a month I reckon.

^ +1 to the above posts. Just put a socket & bar on the balancer bolt & turn it over, much better than trying to turn the engine over via auxiliary driven components.

Oh, and, BE A MAN AND A MANUAL!!!!!!!!

A S2 C34 with only 49,000k's on the clock & a price tag of $10,900 sets alarm bells off straight away! In all my searching I had never come across one with k's as low as that, & that was 3 years ago!!! Auction papers are all good, but, do yourself a favor when checking cars like these out at: www.odometer-check.com (JOCI). It could be the real deal...or not. Nearly all jap imports have odometers wound back. Another visual check you can do is to take a 10mm quarter drive ratchet with you & whip off the engine cover, & check for a timing belt replacement sticker on the timing belt cover ( most dealers forget to look under there), or an outline of where one use to be if they've gotten smart, then you know for sure. Cruise the area where the dealers are, find a quiet workshop & ask them if you can bring a car in to chuck up on the hoist for 10 minutes, then you have a back up if the dealer doesn't have a hoist. If the car is a cold pack, then there will certainly be surface rust on the floor pan in the middle of the car, corrosion on suspension bolts & most certainly surface rust on the floor pan around the fuel tank. I looked at HEAPS (nearly 50 over 8 months in Sydney) of Stageas as before I found mine, & I went to Brisbane to get it. Dunno if you can get away with it down there for anyone buying one with mods (especially for retaining the xenons), but if you have a relative that lives away from Adelaide in a town in the sticks, get the inspection done there to avoid Regency.

Devcon is bog for metal. We use it sometimes on lower liner fits when they pit & leak on engines in the field. It's not to bad a temoprary fix when the customer doesn't want to blow a million bucks (literaly-I'm not joking)! A set of cams in an RB on the other hand, you'd get away with poncams, sprockets & a tune for around the $2k mark.

I replaced all drivetrain fluids. Front & rear diffs are running Castrol Limited Slip 90. Tyres are a fraction wider, but the overall diameter is very close to stock. My odometer is out 400m over a 5k distance. So I have to remember those ads on TV, 'wipe off 5' when I see a police car!

Yeah mate, they might, if not try bursons or repco. Can't remember where I bought mine.......

Sorry Scotty, just missed your post. Mine was very evident before I replaced my clutch. New throwout bearing with clutch, new gearbox fluid (Nulon smooth shift). Noise quietened down, but still there. Did you notice a change in the noise with the clutch change? *edit* More noise with clutch change....

Likely to be gearbox rattle. Loaded in any gear at low revs puts excess strain on input/main shaft bearings.

I'd love a set of R34 GTR rims for my wagon.....DIBS IF YOU WANT TO SELL THEM!!!!!