BlackBox

Shed clean out R34 Parts. - Make an offer, Pictures to come 1) Intake Plenum and throttle body (No runners) 2) Neo Turbo exhaust heat shield 3) Coilovers - Unknown brand/springs 4) Hicas rear steering rack 5) Lower control Arms 6) Coil cover 7) Engine Viscous fan

Turbo is still good for more. Didnt want to run it past 21psi due to stock bottom end

Not really mate, I got these modified but i have seen a few for sale since.

Hi all, With people asking more and more for all model of Skylines atm, i am curious what they are actually selling for? Bonus points if it was an R34 GTT I have a 500HP R34 GTT, 100,000 km. Curious of its worth. Who has bought or sold a skyline in the last 12 months?

Actually it is a 12" subwoofer

Sub Box is to Suit 10" Subwoofer

BUMP

CAS SOLD. - THE REST IS STILL AVAILABLE

#1 Fibreglass Subwoofer Box to suit R34 Skyline. Can include Polk Audio Subwoofer For free but freight will be extra $250 #2 Shadow Pro Gauges 52mm - Volts, Boost, Oil Temp Includes boost sensor, oil temp sensor, extension cables and power supply cables. (Oil temp extension cable has plug cut off end that goes on sensor, new plug can be put on) $150 #3 Murrayis RB trigger Kit. Includes 2x Honeywell 101 Hall sensors and some mounting hardware $250 #4 Pro Flow Catch Can - Brand New $80 #5 Injectors x6 , I was told they are 740cc. I have had them refurbished which cost $120 - they have not been used since $120 #6 Rb25 Cam & timing covers Engine cover Upper Timing cover is metal $200 #7 Derale 16759 Electric fan controller Brand new $100 #8 RB25det R34 CAS 90,000 KM old $120 #9 Sard Fuel Pressure regulator FPR $70 #10 Air Conditioner Drier/Receiver Suit R33 Skyline Brand new never opened $80

Legend Mate cheers

Hey, I am looking for a set of standard rb26 Cam cover baffles. I just bought a set of covers and one of the baffles is missing ?. Cheers,

Hey, I am looking for a set of standard rb26 Cam cover baffles. I just bought a set of covers and one of the baffles is missing ?. Cheers,

Going to bunp this up again instead of making a new thread ; From what i have gathered the TCS/ABS and HICAS computers need to stay to keep the ABS happy, But what about the TCS and HICAS fuses in the engine bay? They are 15A and 20A fuses so i imagine they are for the rack and butterfly and can be removed. (If the computers are being powered from another location) I am relocating my fusebox so getting rid of them would give me another 2 fuse spots and save some wiring

Hey mate where did you get your header tank from?

Can the coil cover be installed while using these? On Rb25 neo using gtr covers.. Also what are the opinions on when something like this is required over oem or splitfire?

Ok thankyou. So the plugs going to the abs module come from the engine harness but dont go to the ecu

Hey all, While talking cars recently somebody has suggested that ABS works only with the OEM ecu, (R34 GTT) My years reading this forum i have never come accross this idea, although i cant seem to find anything to verify or deny that, it looks like it may be true for standalone options, I would like to know if it is true for plugins specifically haltec platinum pro. If its correct and abs is no longer supported then is there anything else that uses the abs wheel sensors? (Launch control?) or are they made redundant. Is there a separate abs computer that could be removed? I also have removed HICAS and TCC - can i now remove the computers for those? Cheers,

That makes sense, besides the bottom fitting which i imagine is where the coolant is returning to the system

You are saying the bottom of the header tank may be the best place? Or the factory bleed point? (which i dont have) The barb on the back of the thermostat housing is only 3/8 and they say the bottom of the header tank should be fed by a hose 3/4 minimum.. I also cant find a header tank with 3/8 barbs on it and after playing around all day cant find a suitable location to mount a tank that would be high enough that clears my bonnet, plenum strut brace and theottle cable... If once it is initially bled it will remain so then i am really in favour of just installing bleed nipples, as long as the cooling system doesnt release gas/vapour during driving?

Im after the stock intake runners/ lower plenum off a rb25det neo

Is it ok to run the bottom of the header to the thermostat housing or does the header need to go to the bottom of the radiator? If so what do i do with the fitting on the thermostat housing

So it looks like the go would be: Blank radiator cap, Radiator Filler neck to top of header tank, hoses from intake runners to top of header tank Then bottom of header tank to thermostat housing.. Would i still require an overflow bottle if the header tank is say 2Lt?

So do i tap a thread in the top of the runners and install bleed screws or maybe a swirl pot is the easier option?

Im also after some advice on my cooling setup, I am running a plazmaman Intake manifold and throttle body, and also a Haltec IACV so i dont have any coolant lines running to those. I have the turbo coolant returning to the back of the intake runners (Orange cable tie) And i was going to cut the nipples of the top of the runners and tap and plug those (Blue/Yellow, Yellow/Yellow) And also Plug next to the thermostat housing. Does this sound alright or am i going to have stagnant flow and airpockets in the intake runners? The other option is for a swirl pot, but in the strive for simplicity and aesthetics i would rather not install one unless needed. Cheers,

It has been that long since i first started i cannot remember where the coolant lines originally ran however the oem bleed points are no more. It would be easy enough to tap a thread and install something like this, but i am looking for the best and neatest solution,