BlackBox

I've already got the kit and got my balancer machined and re-balanced.. I am going to get a timing cover 3d printed to suit what I need

R34 GTT NEO standard Parts - Shed cleanout Hi all, Having a bit of a shed cleanout and got lots of standard parts removed from my R34 GTT, All prices are negotiable Located Cobar NSW but i can help with postage. 1. R34 GTT Hicas Rack - $100 2. Rb25det NEO Standard manifold and throttle body/Trac control with some pieces of piping and brackets $100 3. R34 GTT Triple Gauge - $150 4. Rb25det Neo Standard fuel rail, has some tabs cut off - $50 5. R34GTT Tail lights - $200 6. Rb25det NEO Standard camshafts and springs 100,000km old - $100 7. Rb25det NEO exhaust manifold shield - $50 8. Rb25det NEO Cam/Rocker covers and coil cover -$80

R34 Subwoofer box - Fibreglass Molded Hey,Got a fibreglass subwoofer box for sale out of my R34 GTT, Its molded in the shape so it can sit in the corner of your boot, Only removed so i have space for water/meth tank :). Comes with a 10" Polk Audio Sub, box can be cut to fit 12". Located Cobar NSW - I can help with courier if required $200 Dont have any Pictures of it installed but looked like this

After watching this video It would appear they are ball bearing, putting oil in helped a little but still didn't spin as long as my xr6t, maybe it is something to do with it being installed on the car and it was still hot...

Hey guys, I've just been hit with confusion over whether or not my turbos are ball or bush bearing. The 3 turbos in question are HTA Forced Performance 3076 Garrett gt3071 Stock fg xr6 turbo I was just working on my xr6t and noticed when I spin it the wheel spins for AGES (it is installed on the car) Then I get my Gt3071 and it only spins for a few seconds, I also don't think it had an oil restrictor when it was onstalled so it looks like it is bush bearing, but then the plate on the turbo says 'Garrett 700177-5023' when I look this up it looks to be ball bearing.. My new turbo is a Forced Performance 3076 and the plate on it says 'Garrett 700177-5022s' i thought this would definitely be a ball bearing turbo but it still doesn't spin near as long as the xr6 turbo.. The 3071 and HTA3076 both aren't installed on the car so could this be a reason they are not spinning as freely as the xr6 turbo?

I just sent my neo head to Lewis engines for reco and port, can't comment on the quality yet but I think the price was fair and by the looks he has a bit of experience with rb's

Hey, Im installing a haltec and aftermarket boost gauge, I am going to re-pin factory map to suit the haltec but I have unplugged the map and boost gauge sensor without realising they have the same plug. I think the boost gauge wiring splits out from the brake fluid level sensor like I have pictured, and the map sensor splits out along the firewall, but can somebody just confirm I haven't got them arse about Cheers,

I will be pulling head off tomorrow to see exactly what it needs, but if its coming off for reconditioning then i want to get a basic port done aswell.. Only place i can find is lewis engines, does anybody have experience with them or recommend anywhere else?

When the valve is up it is closed, nothing is on the valve, the camshafts are removed. With the spring out and compressed air in the cylinder the valve stays closed/up and I'm not able to push it down/open but I can feel air escaping past it and flowing out the turbo, even when I reinstall the spring the valve is still not seating and air is flowing out the exhaust

Hi, Was just replacing my valve springs and seals on my RB25det Neo, When i was pumping air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole i can feel a breeze coming out of the back of the turbo, the valve stays up and im not able to push it down. I tried disconnecting the air supply and moving the valve up and down, spinning it to try and dislodge any carbon holding it open but i can still feel air coming out of the turbo. I tried this on cylinder 1 and 2 and same result on both but worse on 1. Is there anything im overlooking or am i going to need to pull the head off for valve regrind? If that is the route i have to take i would rather send it away for a full reco and port.

Tagged so I can read later.. I have an aquamist HFS3 WMI kit that in installing on my r34 Gtt with haltec Platinum pro, what tuners in sydney have good experience with WMI?

Thanks mate, Do you know what the red and black wire is an earth from? The earth's circled in red are 4 wires from 4 different sources,they still only have 1 earth point but 2 share 1 point and 2 share the other.. just curious why the 4 wires don't terminate at 1 point. .. I have put the earth from multimeter on the same earth as a coolant earth before and had the coolant gauge behave erratically and thought this might be a similar scenario

Hi all, Doing some work to my r34 and at the same time trying to do a wire tuck and tidy the engine bay up abit, Theres some wires that i cant account for, if somebody with a GTT (GTS is probably same?) could have a look it would help me massively.. The most confusing wire is located on the drivers side next to the fuse box, it may have gone through the plugs on the strut tower, Black wire splices off into 4 wires.. Possibly earth? Starting with the red and black wire circled in green, i think i cut it awhile ago when i first put my manifold on but want to know what it was from, as seen the one wire splices into 2.. Can somebody also let me know what color wires go to the MAP sensor? I cut the plug off thinking i wouldnt need it since i am installing a haltec Platinum Pro, but now i think it may utilize the factory sensor wiring? On the front of the engine circled in red where the top radiator hose goes in there is 4 earth wires that go into 2 lugs, Why do they do it like this instead of terminating the 4 wires at 1 point? I am now only left with 3 wires but i believe 1 was for something i no longer use, i am also going to earth it on the manifold further back so it is hidden,.

Waited like 12 weeks for the manifold with no updates and my messaged getting ignored, when it finally arrived it didn't have the wastegate with it, countless more messages, unreturned phonecalls and 8 weeks later still no wastegate, he tries to blame it on turbosmart, I rang them directly and had it 3 days later.. 6boost say they will make it up to me and send a few t shirts and turbo beanie, of course they never arrive either, messaged him about them a few times and no reply

I got a 6boost manifold, can't fault the quality of it but there extremely poor customer service would be enough to stop me going back to them

Cheers guys, can't say I've ever heard of a wiper amplifier... How about the 2 computers between the rear seats and boot? Are they for traction control and hicas? Can they be removed since my car doesn't have traction control or hicas anymore?

Hey, can anybody tell me what this brown module and sensor are for R34 gtt

Bump

Hi, When i purchased my r34 Gtt Coupe it had a 10" sub in a box taking up all the boot space. I moved the sub to a molded box in the corner of the boot and have been running with that. Now i am installing water/meth injection i need the boot space for a tank, i also like the idea of loosing the extra weight of a sub and box. Up front i have 6" splits with tweeter mounted on door trim (unsure of brand/specs, was in car when i bought it) running through a 4 channel 100wRMS amp. Now i am removing the sub i know i will need something to add a bit of bass,and 6x9 arn't ideal but i don't want a sub. These are the Speakers i was looking at for the rear http://www.ryda.com.au/alpine-spr-69-car-speakers which would also be going through the 100wrms amp. The only other option i see is a small sub (8"?) mounted between the boot space and rear seats firing into the boot. Input would be appreciated.

Hmm I really want to come up with a solution that doesn't require a gaping hole in the cover...

I would also be interested in this so bump

Has any solution been found for the trigger mount bolts or a work around for cutting the cover? What is the opinion of getting the harmonic balancer balanced after machining slots in it? I have got 12 slots machined in my balancer but it has not been balanced.

Port 1 and 1a is oil supply from engine Port 2 is return to engine port 3 is supply to cooler port 4 is return from cooler When i blow port 1 air comes out around where the filter would sit and would then flow into port 1a. when i blow port 1a air comes out of Port 2,3 and 4 . When I block any 2 of these ports the flow is unobstructed. I expected that when I block ports 2 and 4 the flow to the port 3 (oil cooler supply) would be through a small orifice and would be difficult to blow through until the thermostat had opened.

Ah yes forgot to mention I am aware it will 'bleed' some oil through even when closed, but it seems that it is 50% going through cooler and 50% bypassing.

What oil thermostate are you using GTRPSI? I have a grex/greddy unit that I haven't installed yet because I can't make sense of its operation. When I blow through the ports it's as if it is already open and oil would be flowing through the cooker, I contacted garage 7 who I purchased it from and they tell me that their items on shelf behave the same way and that's the way greddy have intended it to work, even tho they dont understand it either?