Russco

I'd say get another opinion, whoever told you these are good for the track is giving you a bum-steer, I've used them and they are better suited for 1 lap sprints, say hillclimbs or street use - Bridgestone RE55S are a much better circuit tyre, stonger sidewalls as well. Unsure about the R888s but I doubt they would be as soft as the RA1's - I understand the compound in the RA1's is the same as the Nitto drag radials which gives you an idea how soft these are.

Dude, I got these tyres - make sure your not doing more than 2-3 laps in a row - way to soft for any track use, they go off really quickly (great for the street/wet weather use). I won't be buying these again

I'm in the same boat as you but I got done doing 60 in a 70 zone on a Sunday arvo coming back from Woolies - spoke to the cop and he was pulling over any vehicle fitted with a shiney intercooler - got defected. The way cops discriminate against Jap imports is unfair - I bet if I was driving a 700HP blown VS Commodore they wouldn;t have looked twice at me...

What 60 foot times were you getting Adrian?

RB74 pads on mine went off after 3 laps of QR, certainly a better pad than standard but not that flash for circuit.

Col - you won't spin the MT 255x50x16 drag radials, I'm using even smaller 225x50x16 Hoosier radials and provided I heat them up properly I can't spin them - do easy 1.7's 60" on both of these tyres.

I got one of the Moroso cool cans & they work - just got to keep packing them with ice. Unfortunately had to remove for defect notice, if you want it for a good price pm me. Picked-up 22rwhp on the dyno back to back with & without using this cooler. I plumbed mine in between the low pressure lift pump and the surge tank.

131mph is massive - get some drag radials & you've got yourself a 10!!!

Dude, where was the roadblock?

Depends on how well your launch goes, mid 11 is possible if you can pull a 1.80 60" or under - you usually need drag radials to do this (in my case anyway). Street tyres will probably limit you low 12s maybe a high 11, just get them really hot before you launch. Launch it about 1000rpm or more above what you do on the street as the track is a lot stickier

I agree with the lack of a knock sensor input but I'm pretty sure it covers all the other stuff - you can even run 2 different maps if you run different octane fuels.

I got one of these, they work fine but not a lot of tuners in Brissy can tune them. Haltech are always bringing out new software updates which is a pain in the ass to keep up with - would be good if they got it right the first time. If I had my time again I would have gone Motec.

You could have but you would have run into wheelspin - I had the 26 with 339rwkw, my graph was flat from 6k onwards which is very odd, the only thing I can put it down to was wheelspin (peak power is a bit over 7,500rpm on all my other graphs). It usually puts out about 370-380rwkw on 20-22psi, had 24 through it on the day.......ah well, at least I found out it was running rich so off for a retune Thanks to Col for organizing the day.

What did Col end up running? - I missed his run.

Yes, it has a safety function called overboost shutdown - set it about 2psi above your max. boost setting. If you set your eboost up correctly you'll never have boost spikes, it regulates boost extremely well.

No

Col, my $$ transferred today - I'll need to have my car strapped down.

I'd give it a miss, go a minimum rating of 250psi.

Funny you said this Dan, my single plate felt like a sledgehammer hitting the engine whereas the twin plate has a much softer engagement. I never truly appreciated the physical size difference between these clutches until I put my old single plate side-by-side to the NPC twin plate - it was dead easy to see which was the stronger/better engineered unit. The NPC must have weighed twice as much.

It was not the same one as DirtGarage's as he couldn;t do that particular clutch for my application, so it would not have been the full monty afaik, it was a carbonic type unit. I asked for a 600hp clutch and it did not hold 600hp on slicks, rather than throwing more $$ away, I spoke to some of the boys at Willowbank with quick GTR's (10sec & under) - all ran twin plates cltuches (most commonly used were Direct Clutch or NPC units), this is why I went for a twin plate and it has held up flawlessly.

389rwkw running through the rears (RB26 in an R32GTST) - mind you the single plates let go on a lower tune with approx. 320rwkw.

I went an NPC twin plate ($1800) after I fried 2 Jim Berry single plates (albeit not the same as DirtGarage's one - Jim couldn't do me one of those for my application). Everytime I fried a single plate it cost me $770 to get redone (+ labour to install), a rebuild on the NPC twin plate is $220. The twin plate has done more work than both the single plates put together and it still has not required a rebuild. If anything spins at the track it is the slicks not the clutch

motul 300v 15w-50

I've had 2 on my RB26 for over 2 years now, they filter very well (have had an oil analysis done which supports this) and are well made - very similar to previous K&N filters that I have owned. Better filtration and flow than Apexi and 1/3rd the price - how can you go wrong!?

Both Shannons & Just Car have the same underwriter for their policies hence Shannons will never be cheaper than Just Car, the only difference is that Shannons can do an agreed value. However "Agreed value" is a bit of a mis-nomer with Shannons, I just phoned them to try and insure my R32 GTST for $25K and they said all they can do is a max. of $18K on an R32.