Russco

Yes, don't go cutting holes in your sheet metal, I got defected for this - apparently effects crumple zones and is illegal. Cop who did me said they pull over everything with a shiney front mounted intercooler - maybe best to paint it matt black.

You'd be unlucky to get picked-up on this - I've never seen it policed (different story if you run a 10 though).

Unfortunately if you go past a traffic cop they'll defect you for it as you have affected the "crumple zones" - that's what I got pinged for on my intercooler piping (hole in inner guard made for I/C pipe). Dept of Tpt inspector had no problem with it as it wasn't a cut to the subframe however there is new legislation coming out to specifically outlaw cuts made to crumple zones, i.e. no more bonnet cuts or inner guard cuts allowed.

SOLD

Try Hi Octane Racing - they were pretty reasonably priced when I got mine. I'm running about 380rwkw in mine and engine is still going well. I also fitted ARP head studs but I heard these were not necessary.

Well done dude, saw the pass! What MPH did you clock half track?? - managed 103mph in mine but had bent the tailshaft so had to back off at 3/4 track. Interested to see how it compared to your timeslip considering your time!

PM or 0409 635 106. Also willing to do a straight swap for a 2x60mm moulded one-piece Greddy A-pillar gauge mount. Thanks Russ

Yes straight swap mate (bargain) - it's a moulded one-piece black plastic Greddy that attaches to the A-Pillar via 2 screws. I have relocated my gauges hence do not need this anymore. Note: There is no price on this as I want to do a straight swap.

Location - Sunnybank Brisbane. Pm or 0409 635 106. Wll also consider outright purchase of standard A-pillar panel.

I found absolutely no difference in response with the one-piece (metal) over a 2-piece (metal). I think you received some good advice from this dude

Jim usually rates HP on circuit applications so if you put slicks on the rears, rev it to 7000rpm & then dump it on a well-prepped track like Willowbank like I did, well....tore my carbonic down to the rivets. Ended up going to a NPC twin plate and it is bulletproof + only $200 to rebuild as opposed to $700 for a single plate.

Dude I think you read this out of context - no tailshaft loop is definitely asking for trouble yet I see lots of guys using one piece shafts without them!

Well guys, just had a new custom 2-piece fitted and guess what - no more high speed vibration problems. Mine was put down to an alignment issue between the gearbox and diff - so if your fitting an RB25 box to an R32 GTST be careful when deciding to go the one-piece option.

That's what I originally thought as well but the tailshaft place said they are harder to balance than a 2 piece as 2 piece shafts are much less prone to high speed vibration due to the shafts being unequal lengths. I still managed to bend my 3.5" chrome-moly one piece shaft at the drags (400rwkw + slicks running though the rears). I have spoken to a heap of guys who have had 1 piece shafts fitted in VL's and Skylines and with the exception of Bl4cK32 everyone of them had vibration issues - most went back to a 2 piece. A 2 piece shaft is less likely to kill you if it fails (unless you're running a tailshaft loop on your one piece). But if anyone wants to buy a cheap custom one piece shaft...............

Having had a one-piece tailshaft on an R32 I would not recommend this option to anyone. Total bitch to get balanced, suffers from a high speed vibration that even the experts can't fix. Going back to a 2-piece shaft.

Another thumbs-up for Craig, good service - good price!

Yes these are still available.

SOLD

Preferably Brisbane if possible. Pm or 0409 635 106. Russ

SOLD

What you say is true but I reckon this fella was at least 28 y.o......!?

Ha, another Autobarn d*ckhead. Reminds me another stupid quote by Shell servo attendant who tells the dude in fornt of me "mate you should use Optimax, you'll pick up HEAPS of power & get another 100klms out of your tank".........he had a stock standard Hyundai Excel.

I changed from Castol 10-60 to Motul 300v 15-50 - I find the Motul a better product particularly in cold starts (much less noise in the valvetrain), the Castrol seemed to break down quicker & require changing more frequently but I do a lot of cold starts, stop-start driving- there was not 1 HP difference between the 2 on the dyno & both held up well on trackdays. Motul is overpriced to the point that I will be probably going back to the Castrol and doing oil changes more frequently.

Avoid the RB74's as well, these don't hold up well to track days - will be trying some Ferodo DS2500 in mine next.

Give Mark at Godzilla a call, very good with Power FC's and specializes in GTRs - you'll waste your $$ going elsewhere.