Russco

See pm, I'm in Brisbane.

Had my RB26 retuned on it yesterday, took another 2 degrees advance the whole way through the rev range (over 98) & that's on a built engine running 20psi. Ran like sh*t before the tune, fuel map needed to be richened up as the 100 leaned it out.

Ok I tried a new set of Splitfires & they were "marginally" better than a 12 year old set of RB26 standard coils - I doubt if they would be any better than new oem coils. I could increase my gap from 0.6mm to 0.635mm on platinum plugs (copper plugs could run 0.8mm no problems). As to what gap you can run trial & error worked for me, you will be able to run a larger gap using copper plugs.

Let's see, my dealings with Steve - he advertised a newly rebuilt RB25DET gearbox with an OS Giken Cross Set on the forums here.......I bought it off him, put in in my car to find out it wouldn't go into 4th at all - it was stripped by Western Suburbs gearboxes in Brisbane to find out it was a completely standard box with a blown 4th gear synchro & 3 smashed keys (had never been rebuilt in their opinion). Steve promised to repay the outlays for the repairs, never saw all the $$, doesn;t answer calls, emails etc. I reported it to the administrators on this forum but for some reason they have not added him on the bad trader list!?

Does anyone have contact details for Skylinesteve ala Steve Verocchi? I'm chasing $500 he promised me weeks back for an apparently "rebuilt R33 box with OS Giken gearset in very good condition". Box ended up having standard gears, blown syncho & 3 busted keys........ Not answering phone calls, emails etc. Thanks

Yes it works, reduced temp by at least 5 degrees & afterboil is hardly noticable.

I have a full set of 4 - as new pm offer. I'm in Brissy.

This seems to be an urban myth, I have personally tried redline in 2 boxes & while it fixes very minor cold change problems it will not help "crunches" where there is an obvious synchro problem. Better to save your $$ & get the problem fixed properly the first time i.e. replace the synchro.

If you see a code "RP71" on the box it's an RB20.

Email sent

Daveo, how much did your new tailshaft cost?

What clutch were you using? Try a Jim Berry single plate if you haven't bought one already, I have dumped mine at 6K time & time again with slicks & 355rwkw & it is bullet-proof.

Gavin's place is a normal mechanic-type workshop, he may assemble engines there but all machining, honing etc would be outsourced to specialist machining workshops like JHH, John White Race Engines etc. I have no idea who he uses.

3 months old - perfect working condition $250. Pm if interested.

knore, John at JHH did my RB26 & it has performed flawlessly. Unlike many other "engine builders" all he does is rebuilds & machines engines, he is not a tuning shop that sub-contracts the work & puts on a mark-up. Have a look at some potential workshop/s & JHH's & you will probably see one with a lot of specialist machining equipment & one without. He does a stack of RB engines & other Jap engines including Colin Wilshire's 8sec Datson ute etc who also speak highly of him.

Dude, ring Peformance Wholesale at Slacks Creek - they quoted me $117.95 per 20L drum for VP109.

Guys, I tried to install a C's R33 shifter but the nylon inset at the bottom of the C's shifter is 20mm in diameter (correct size per Sydneykid) however the hole in my gearbox linkage is only 15mm?? Would anybody know what Nissan shifter/gearbox is in my car - obviously not an R33 one. Thanks

Got one - thanks. Cheers

I run 20psi through mine & my platinums are fine, maybe it comes back to tune??

I wouldn't do it, I was speaking to Theo a while back & he was driving the blue 11 sec R33GTST with slicks on the back & radials on the front. He said for no reason it "snapped" mid-track & he almost put it into the wall - no warning at all.

I'm running 1.4 bar on 98RON fine, has never pinged - just comes down to the ability of your tuner & as I found, your fuel system. I have a similar setup to yours & for the record I have not noticed any difference between Ultimate or Optimax, mine makes within 1hp at the wheels on either. I personally would not touch toluene, that stuff will kill you. With my build, anything over 1.4bar required a higher octane fuel.

Cheers, will do!

The attachment mouldings on the lip are all torn out - is it possible to repair these? Looks like a bin jobbie

Given my run-ins with driveways etc fibreglass will get banged-up, the factory one has some give, just that everything with a "Nissan" label is stupidly priced, must be a 2000% gross margin there.........

Does anyone know who in Brissy would stock either new or second hand lower front lips to suit an R32 GTR? Nissan want $650............. Cheers