BK

The R7434 and R7436 are the same plug except the 36 is a 2.5mm longer overall plug as the insulator 2.5mm longer. The 34 is the BKR length and the 36 is BCPR length, which RB26s use as standard. I'm still on the 36 because stock is BCPR. I will change to the 34 next time as the 36 tends to jam in hard to the coilpack stalk when used with the full height RB R35 coil pack kits, so the 34 just "fits" a little nicer by comparison.

This R32 GTR is for real actually for sale, make an offer before it goes on car sales site At its new home in SA with its siblings Make no mistake I absolutely do not want to part with this car, but 8 cars is now a bit ridiculous.

How about an XR6 FG manual ute with 64000km on the clock ? It's gotta go too. Time has come, don't need 3 GTR anymore so time start culling my cars. The old man is 80 in November and no more manual cars for him. I will never sell my 33

Thanks dude 😎 Anyone want to buy an 32 GTR in Adelaide ?

Have I not posted since 2022 ? wow... Yes, it's pretty much finished mechanically. I'll probably sell it soon as the old man is 80 in November, so 99% he won't ever drive it again. I don't really need 3 GT-R's and I haven't driven any of them since September last year - correction, drove my 33 earlier this year on Australia day. All of them have been like this since then.

It's that time of year again...

Only plug to use on a 500kw onwards RB mainly because of the Platinum ground electrode, as all other plugs can grenade the nickel ground electrode right off with any detonation quite easily.

Closest you can get without touching is best, so ideally under 1.5mm is recommended. I run a Ross trigger with hall effect GT101s. I have no shims on cam home at the standard set 1.4mm gap and the crank end is shimmed to be about 50 thou, which is about 1.25mm down here.

Sounds like there is a tear in the actuator boot. Use 518 not 515. There is no gasket between the Attesa actuator and transfer case, it relies on the boot of the actuator itself to seal with just an oil film or 518 usually. Failing that, Threebond the mf'er in with 1207C.

Nah no polarity. The switch is just open circuit and actually closes when active at low level, hence why you can just unplug it and nothing happens.

Had enough Steve ? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1997-nissan-skyline-gt-r-bcnr33-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-14227414?pageSource=details

I have a spare 33 gtr one here, but I see Jack Philips JDM in Melbourne has an 33 one with the single plug in stock - $220 https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3160&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-acceleration-gravity-g-sensor-98805-20u05&controller=product

The fork is oem - a 350z oem. If it wasn't better Nissan wouldn't have changed it would they...

Undo top and bottom of engine mounts, not engine mount brackets on block. Basically it'll have the engine tilt back against the firewall. Don't have any other pictures on me, that was just from the last time a box was out last year. Basically you get the picture though, bracket on back to stop slipping off the flat gearbox lifting plate adapter for a floor jack. Spend the time chocking under the front bellhousing area correctly for the angle you require. This is the most time consuming part really, just getting it setup on a jack If the engine is tilted and you suss out the jack angle correctly to suit it goes in easily with one hand on the jack handle - rotation of box not required if you have this right. Even my 78 year old Dad still manages this solo on his car, so have a crack. I'll be taking my 33 GTR box out soonish to generally inspect the OS gearset and reseal centre plate, so I'll try and document this with some photos for you.

Yeah it CAN go in that way, but the height and angle required do it with 400kg + hanging off an engine crane is something I'd rather avoid. Heaps of the Yanks on youtube are doing it like that with the engine and box through the engine bay.