BK

The R7434 and R7436 are the same plug except the 36 is a 2.5mm longer overall plug as the insulator 2.5mm longer. The 34 is the BKR length and the 36 is BCPR length, which RB26s use as standard. I'm still on the 36 because stock is BCPR. I will change to the 34 next time as the 36 tends to jam in hard to the coilpack stalk when used with the full height RB R35 coil pack kits, so the 34 just "fits" a little nicer by comparison.

This R32 GTR is for real actually for sale, make an offer before it goes on car sales site At its new home in SA with its siblings Make no mistake I absolutely do not want to part with this car, but 8 cars is now a bit ridiculous.

How about an XR6 FG manual ute with 64000km on the clock ? It's gotta go too. Time has come, don't need 3 GTR anymore so time start culling my cars. The old man is 80 in November and no more manual cars for him. I will never sell my 33

Thanks dude 😎 Anyone want to buy an 32 GTR in Adelaide ?

Have I not posted since 2022 ? wow... Yes, it's pretty much finished mechanically. I'll probably sell it soon as the old man is 80 in November, so 99% he won't ever drive it again. I don't really need 3 GT-R's and I haven't driven any of them since September last year - correction, drove my 33 earlier this year on Australia day. All of them have been like this since then.

It's that time of year again...

Only plug to use on a 500kw onwards RB mainly because of the Platinum ground electrode, as all other plugs can grenade the nickel ground electrode right off with any detonation quite easily.

Closest you can get without touching is best, so ideally under 1.5mm is recommended. I run a Ross trigger with hall effect GT101s. I have no shims on cam home at the standard set 1.4mm gap and the crank end is shimmed to be about 50 thou, which is about 1.25mm down here.

Sounds like there is a tear in the actuator boot. Use 518 not 515. There is no gasket between the Attesa actuator and transfer case, it relies on the boot of the actuator itself to seal with just an oil film or 518 usually. Failing that, Threebond the mf'er in with 1207C.

Nah no polarity. The switch is just open circuit and actually closes when active at low level, hence why you can just unplug it and nothing happens.

Had enough Steve ? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1997-nissan-skyline-gt-r-bcnr33-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-14227414?pageSource=details

I have a spare 33 gtr one here, but I see Jack Philips JDM in Melbourne has an 33 one with the single plug in stock - $220 https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3160&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-acceleration-gravity-g-sensor-98805-20u05&controller=product

The fork is oem - a 350z oem. If it wasn't better Nissan wouldn't have changed it would they...

Undo top and bottom of engine mounts, not engine mount brackets on block. Basically it'll have the engine tilt back against the firewall. Don't have any other pictures on me, that was just from the last time a box was out last year. Basically you get the picture though, bracket on back to stop slipping off the flat gearbox lifting plate adapter for a floor jack. Spend the time chocking under the front bellhousing area correctly for the angle you require. This is the most time consuming part really, just getting it setup on a jack If the engine is tilted and you suss out the jack angle correctly to suit it goes in easily with one hand on the jack handle - rotation of box not required if you have this right. Even my 78 year old Dad still manages this solo on his car, so have a crack. I'll be taking my 33 GTR box out soonish to generally inspect the OS gearset and reseal centre plate, so I'll try and document this with some photos for you.

Yeah it CAN go in that way, but the height and angle required do it with 400kg + hanging off an engine crane is something I'd rather avoid. Heaps of the Yanks on youtube are doing it like that with the engine and box through the engine bay.

This is from pulling the box out last year to change a clutch on the white 32. Zoom in and youll see how its bolted to the flat bracket on the left to stop it rotating or slipping off. This jack and bracket combination has removed and reinstalled GTR boxes on this section of concrete more times than I care to remember, nothing fancy required.

Nitto = Proven

It's actually quite easy once you've done it a few times and have the right gear. It's all about having the correct upward angle on the floor jack mounting, you don't need to rotate anything. You need to make up bracketry to bolt the transmission to though, do not rely on it sitting on the jack as that just won't work. One thing that is a must is to undo the engine mounts so the engine tilts rearward to suit your upward jack angle. No friggen way I'd ever do that.

Same, RHDJAPAN for ARD alternator as they are essentially a rewound factory alternator so no bracket conversions They have a slightly bigger pulley but still fits the factory 4PK875 belt. Have you been back to Ampl ? Sure it's not fuel ? Refresh my memory with what coilpacks you have and what fuel pump, fuel line sizes and the pump wiring size is. Has Ampl suggested what dramas the low voltage is causing and / or this mentioned cut is related ? A drop to 12.7v is not ideal but really shouldn't be causing you major dramas like a cut. Bloody cars....

I get where you're coming from, but establishing the very important basics with things like what baseline voltages are at battery and fuel pump terminals, fuel pressure, base timing, spark plug type and gap and so on should be a given as a precheck before going anywhere near a dyno. Going on a dyno to tune without doing any of this with something like say less than 13.0v at pump terminals or god forbid actually at the battery is just asking for tuners to crack the shits, as that will immediately flag potential problems elsewhere. i also accept unforseen things happen that can't be picked up until actually exposed on the dyno too, which is why the are such a great tool. I notice a lot of places are asking for dyno prechecks to avoid exactly this sort of thing.

Like I said, the low voltage condition from an alternator will mainly affect fuel pump and coil operation but it has to be pretty severe to do that, injectors draw stuff all by comparison. Coils would start misfiring and you would start to have low fuel pressure lean outs, but the fact it supported enough for well over 400kw with stable AFR and no jittery power curve from misfies uptop doesn't really point to coils misfiring or low fuel pressure from the alternator limiting things at all. My point is you will see something more sinister happening well before you get to tune the thing properly. Now don't get me wrong, having a more capable alternator with more headroom is always a good thing. I myself went from the stock 90A to an ARD 140A as I could see I was getting only 12v at battery with all 3 fuel pumps running at idle under test conditions and would cause dramas. The ARD jumped it back to about 14.3v at full load at around 70A. End of the day a better alternator is never a bad thing, just usually not a likely thing if everything else checks out. If this is the case you don't need to be at full load to see if something doesn't look right as your voltages even at idle will be a bit suspect.

Bastard ! 700kw incoming - nice one Brett👍

Alternator limiting how ? I smell bullshit... Coils and fuel pumps are your most power hungry things and I'd expect dramas very early in the tuning process if this was the case from a alternator causing a low voltage condition.

I have no idea about other keypads, but the Haltech canbus keypad become compatible with the Elite with a Nexus firmware release in March 2022. So using the latest 3.XX firmware you'd have to be using NSP not ESP for keypad.

I remember this, pointing you to the torn diaphragm and which one to source. Your gate is the HKS standard not GT or GTII - unfortunately your HKS gate is discontinued and so are the springs. All you can do is measure the od of the existing spring and try and get something compatible. The lengths will slightly change but whatever, they have to. Here's the part numbers for you. Google them and you might get lucky with someone with old stock, although I don't see that a 1 bar spring was ever available for it.