BK

You can do that. The GaugeArt Haltech canbus gauge you can setup warnings in any parameter which do change the screen colour from black to white and activate an additional red led if programmed. In 4 parameters per page resolution the display is no smaller than the Power FC at 8 parameter monitor setup.

I don't know how much you read here, but the issue in question is with the NZ wiring 24-1 cam trigger car using a single reluctor, not the car using the Ross crank trigger kit - that car is working flawlessly with the non bolt on integrated 12 tooth trigger on crank and +1 cam home with GT101 sensors. As you mentioned It seems that yes if you want more than the 36 tooth crank signal is when you switch to a reluctor as they handle the small tooth width and tooth gap better, but honestly the resolution the Ross 12 tooth does has proven to be way good enough for me. Having more timing resolution is obviously not a bad thing but the need to run 60 crank teeth is pretty extreme, and nowhere near required in most under 10k rpm or massive hp situations. Yes the Haltech Elites have an oscilloscope if you're running the Nexus software, which I just done on this car so I have yet to capture any waveform data. Will report back in the morning on the reluctor cam setup as I've had enough for tonight.

Absolutely spot on, crank is the way to go but personally I'd always prefer to have the crank trigger teeth on the balancer instead of timing gear, hence why I went with Ross. Personally I don't use any PRP gear at all. After what I experienced first hand with the whole crushing of lower timing gears and sheilds none of my RBs will ever have anything but the Ross redesigned lower timing gear and sheild assemblies that interlock. Nitto are the only ones with a similar solution (not as good imo) to Ross but neither make a timing gear in this design with trigger teeth on gear.

I'm talking about crank trigger with ATI balancer with the teeth on the balancer itself, which is what Dose was referring to.

There are solutions to use the ATI balancer with trigger teeth with the Ross setup.

That kit looks not bad for plug and playness, but comparing all the kits I still prefer the Ross setup like on my blue 32, as I think their stuff overall is just higher quality than most. I'm using the Ross hardened lower timing gear and shield setup too, and also prefer the teeth on the balancer than on the timing gear. The GT101 sensors are very robust and are not as fussy about their gaps either.

I will point out that's not how the factory fuel tank cap works. It doesn't release fuel tank excessive pressure out to atmosphere, it opens to draw air into the tank as the fuel fluid level decreases. Excess pressure is only ever released via the tank vent line.

Yeah it was in your build thread we discussed it. I also saw your new post on the Haltech forum thread after we discussed it, the same one where Matt had a go at using cam triggers over crank triggers. https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?t=33949 That's why I don't know why I am persisting with trying to solve this problem - I completely agree on measuring your engine position from the crankshaft not camshaft, but that's another area of discussion and not relevant to the problem at hand here. So in effect you are wired at the ECU on the original loom wiring to B1 Trigger + and the shared signal ground B14, which is how I originally had it setup. Then I changed the ground setup using the B5 Trigger - on a completely separate loom core meant for the Home +, so my ground was essentially changed to a completely separate wire and isolated ground pin at ECU not shared with other sensors with same result, so I'm going to rule out a shared or individual signal ground issue or the ground wire core itself being faulty. The one unchanged thing is trigger + always been on the same wire core to ECU at B1, so that is next step to see if something is happening physically with that conductor.

Bro I'm almost ready for that. It's really acting like the sensor is overheating and malfunctioning, hence why originally I started looking at all the coolant corrections on cranking. If this thing ever does work completely flawlessly other setup the only things I can think of left are: -the sensor overheats and the signal goes wack on very low voltage outputs, -I have a physical wire core going faulty on CAS pin 1 core that goes to ECU pin B1 Trigger + -Possible that an ECU firmware issue on the Elite exists

That's the way I just had it - same shit going on.

👍Here is the end of the decapped 040 flowing 1200cc

Correct, the RB26 throttle 1 line to the canister is a pin prick. Still have mine connected at 33psi + on the 2.8 blue 32, no dramas.

Done the change exactly as I mentioned tonight, no work. Thought I'd nailed it as it fired straight up, idled great, drove great, restarted a couple of times fine and then wouldn't start again after engine up to temp for awhile. I checked the B14 signal ground before changing it and it was under well 1 ohm so it's been making me think there was never any ground issue. So the only constant now that hasn't ever been changed is that the signal + is still the same CAS pin 1 going to ECU pin B1 which is Trigger + and possibly becoming faulty when hot. Not confident but I will try it with using the signal + CAS pin 2 home + core that is originally at ECU pin B2 as my trigger + core at ECU pin B1 and revert back to using ECU pin B14 signal ground on the CAS pin 4 core. I'll check continuity is good obviously. Failing that working, the CAS goes back on and then it gets a proper Ross hall effect crank trigger next year like the blue 32.

Yep this is what I'm going to try tonight after work. Use what would be the existing Home + at CAS loom end as the dedicated signal ground conductor back to the ECU and then use that HOME + wire from ECU pin B2 and connect that in ECU pin B5 which will be TRIGGER - and disable the ground reference. This way the trigger signal ground should not be shared with any other signal grounds. Other trigger settings are pretty basic though: If this dosen't work.......

Yeah mate, if I have a signal ground issue you might be onto something as I mentioned possibly using B5 Trigger- and disable ground reference. It's gotta be a signal ground reference issue that is affecting purely the very low cranking arming voltages, as the car runs fine when engine is actually running. Why it only does it when it's hot can only be a caused slight increase in ground resistance which would have a big impact at 0.5v or lower cranking signals.

Was waiting to see your input. You mentioned you were having starting issues but that was just down to having your arming voltage at cranking rpm too high, correct ? So you've never encountered the hot start issue ? I'll look into it further before I bin the NZ wiring kit, but short of having a grounding issue that occurs once hot I'm running out of ideas. We have discussed this before but exact pins are you using ? I'm using pins 1 and 4 on the CAS loom direct with a DT connector, which is terminated on an Elite 2000/2500 as: CAS pin 1 at Trigger + ECU pin B1 CAS pin 4 at Signal ground ECU pin B14. There is a pin B5 on the ECU specifically for TRIGGER -, but I haven't heard of that needing to be used. I'll do some more testing with the meter and I'll do some signal scoping. I might even try as per Adam from Link suggesting to ground the neg side of the reluctor, but I'll see what the sensor back to ECU resistance is like first. I'm wondering why in the f**k they didn't just use a Hall effect sensor like a GT101 - more forgiving with gap, not dicking around with sub 0.5v signals or trigger arming voltages etc.

Haltech can gauge is excellent. Has 10 pages that can have 1 to 4 parameters each which is a lot of potential info, so only one gauge is in each car. Is good for referencing all the main stuff without having the pc connected. Page 1 for me is always set on afr.

Nah mate, nothing to do with starter as cranking speed is fine. I realise the lower the cranking speed the less voltage is generated by the reluctor, so I looked at my arming voltage table specifically in the crank area. As mentioned my starting settings are this and work fine cold: I've tried lowering it, putting filters on the trigger- nothing works. Thought it was to do with my cranking fuel coolant corrections or pulse width settings as it is definitely temp related, but nope - all I managed to achieve was to foul the plugs. It's definitely all to do with this piece of shit reluctor setup. Not related to gap as I have under 0.5mm and no shims installed, so I can't get a smaller gap anyway. I noticed when it won't start the rpm reading is inconsistent in the ECU so I'll have to scope the signal, but I know the trigger signal will look all choppy from just what the rpm is saying when the problem occurs. It is exactly like mentioned here on the Link forum and is apparently not that uncommon for the NZ wiring setup with the Bosch VR reluctor. https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/15471-r33-gtr-nz-wiring-trigger-kit-problem/ f*kn piece of... arrrgh ! I'll sell it cheap if anyone wants it.

Car has done nothing since September, but I did get around to refixing the genuine front bonnet lip on properly with new mounting hardware. My under bonnet insulation pad is now annoying me and probably needs a replacement as heat is starting to affect it, but I think they are drug money price now so probably won't happen.

Got to fix a few problems on the car since the September race meeting. Fixed the interior clock issue with Kevin from Frenchys who was fantastic to deal with. Managed to fix the clocks out of both 32s so now I even have a working spare - yay ! Had some dramas with the injectors on low load. Existing ones are Denso 1000cc EV1 from Sard and were having trouble holding a good afr at idle. Would go hunting around from 12 - 16:1 while fuel pressure was a rock solid 40psi and -10psi vacuum, so decided to change to some modified Bosch 040 1200cc @ 3 bar long reach EV14 injectors. Really wanted to go the 333 1550cc at 3 bar ones like in the other 32, but price was a factor here and think the 1200cc ones should be big enough for the end power target of this engine combo. Had to change connectors back to the EV1 stock type as they were changed to be the Denso hi guide style. As they are high impedance injectors it also meant I could piss off the factory injector resistor pack, so win win there. Setup all the relevant info in the Elite and boom, injector problem solved. Idles like a factory car and revs cleanly through to 8500rpm, so very impressed with their operation. Then got onto installing the NZ cam trigger setup on the Elite. Sussed out the wiring easy enough as I was using DT connectors and the setup seemed to be pretty straight forward. Started it cold and seemed to be running well while driving, pulling through to redline smoothly with no trigger errors. I did notice when I removed the existing crispy cas wiring connector that one of the signal wires was holding on literally by one strand, so was probably what was causing majority of the previous trigger issues. After a few weeks I started to notice a really annoying thing - the car would refuse to start when warmed up. I previously not noticed this as I'd obviously never shut the car down hot and tried to restart it straight away. You could leave it for say 15 - 20 minutes after it wouldn't hot start and then it would just fire like when it was cold - WTF?! Since then I've been delving more into this issue am coming to really hate this thing now. It is such a piece of shit I think I'm going to go back to the CAS.

White 32 has the head breather / sump vent and decent catch can setup but still retains the stock rocker cover baffles. I've always thought it breathes more since the T40 install, so will be interesting to compare. Definitely breathes more than the blue 32, which has all that mentioned above but additionally has the Mines rocker cover baffles and 2nd pre catch can acting as an oil / air separator but also doesnt have the T40.

I actually think the old T40 on the white 32 is increasing crank case pressure increasing breathing too. Think about it - any oil pressure in excess of 40psi is being fed back into your sump pressurising it. Normally you only have your low pressure turbo oil return and block oil passages gravity feeding back to the sump. With the T40 you are adding potentially 60psi+ with a Nitto pump back into the sump - this can never be a good idea adding to crank case pressure.

Nothing to specifically update here, but just putting k's on car and it's been flawless. The turbo elbow hose failure has been about the only recent issue with the car. I'm still running a silicone replacement until I can be bothered to pull the turbo compressor off and weld a proper cast alloy elbow on for a permanent fix. Apart from that - no complaints. Still love the 2.8 / 6466 combo, the PAR box has so far proven to be very good and couldn't be happier with the entire engine management side using the current fuel system and Ross crank trigger setup all controlled from the Elitec 2500. The Ross trigger with the GT101 hall effect sensors I absolutely rate 10/10, unlike the heap of shit NZ wiring cam trigger on the white 32. I will elaborate on that later, but they are no replacement for a real crank trigger setup. Found a few pics from when I was moving away from the Bosch 044s to the AEM setup with upgraded 10mm2 wiring, 2 x 400lph staged externals, dual speedflow check valves and 340lph lift pump all throungh AN8 200 series lines, basically binning the existing mismatched and poorly installed Willall racing setup. I really expected better from them as their setup caused me nothing but dramas. Note the new pump power supply 10mm2 wiring in comparison to 2.5mm2 existing - big difference. Next thing on the agenda was to fit the Turbosmart OPR T40 turbo oil reg. I've been putting it off because of the fittings and stuff I had to figure out that was required for install, and I'm glad I hadn't fitted it yet. OPR T40 won't be going on, ordered 2 of these below today and will be removing the T40 from the white 32 too. https://www.turbosmart.com/product/opr-v2-turbo-oil-pressure-regulator/

Don't think so, part is 21082-05U00 and they're f**king $800+ now !

No calibrations between air temp sensors are the same, they are all different and not linear. Far out man it's not hard. Get sensor, fit and calibrate in Link software - done.