BK

Funny that back in 2008 my blue 32 I had a Z32 AFM in the pipework after intercooler with a Power FC pro and HKS T51. Not the entire AFM, just the hotwire sensor part in the alloy pipework and was setup like this from Japan. The car actually ran really well with it running 28psi and mid 10s on 98, but still got 10L/100km. Then the stock 20+ balancer failed and destroyed the engine 👍 But still...it did work.

So its not an actual Ti / Walbro then. Hey mate, can you do me a favour and clamp test the current draw of this pump ? I question the specs attached to it as they vary wildly from and actual Walbro 525lph F285. Aeroflow is claiming 460lph at 3 bar with 5A current draw ! I call bullshit as that current draw for that flow is exceptionally good - too good to be realistic for that style of pump. Either it doesn't flow what they claim or it draws WAY more current than listed. I personally wouldn't trust the specs of the Aeroflow Walbro knockoff to a real Walbro at all. No way you are getting that sort of flow from such low current draw. The actual Walbro 525 specs in comparison are 460lph at 40psi and draws around 18A at 13.5v. Before PWM on the white 32, I clamped it at 13.7v idling at 40psi and it did indeed draw at least 17.5A inline with Walbros specs.

If you put a pressure gauge at pump outlet and one at rail, at load I think you'd be surprised how much differential there is, like 20 - 30psi difference with lines that small and so much flow. I would not be surprised to see your actual pump pressure at idle at 60psi with your setup with only 40 at rail. This leads to all sorts of stupid shit like fuel heating, pressurising the fuel tank, splitting fuel tanks and obviously stressing the fuel pump causing premature failure. Seems to be classic example of too much pump for the lines Again with fuel module, piss it off and go proper battery feed to pump. Your situation really just looks like a stuffed reg. Fuel line upgrade should still be a high priority though - you can never go too big.

Though so, 10psi change is not normal and sounds very restricted. What possessed you use one of these on stock lines ?! For example our white 32 has the same 525lph with AN8 top hat fittings, AN8 supply and return lines with an FPR1200 using PWM. Changes about 4 - 5 psi Stock Nismo pump stock reg on 5/16 lines changes about 3-4psi in my 33.

What size fuel lines ? What pump ?

Change in real world is generally 3 - 4psi. 40 psi at idle full vacuum, 43psi at 0 vacuum with line pulled. Bar talk at this level is silly. 0.5bar change I would not expect realistically, that's a bit dramatic of a change at 7.5 psi and 0.05bar is basically no change.

Nothing, useless, But is in the return

Yes, does f**k all

Let's just back all this up. The question is why have you got such high fuel pressure at idle ? - and it's definitely not because your pump flows too much. An 044 or 040 flows about 300lph at 3 bar, so up to 40% more than a stock standard pump which is nothing outrageous, but a single 044 should still support at least 350kw + on unleaded. Those stock fuel lines, a properly functioning stock fuel reg and an 044 should sit happily at 3 Bar on idle, unless there is some sort of restriction on the return line. Look for stuffed fuel reg, rail blockage into fuel reg, return line blockage or kink, standard location fuel filter in return line blocked and so on. The fact is the reg creates a controlled restriction in the return to set rail pressure, so it's not a restriction or starvation in the supply line as then you'd get a low fuel pressure scenario which is not happening at idle here. Something is restricting the normal flow of fuel back into the tank - find it.

I'm pretty sure it's the fitting for the charcoal canister bottom vent to connect a breather hose into the chassis rail.

I have these ones in all 3 of the GTRs. https://store.autoracingtechnik.com/collections/fire-extinguisher-bracket/products/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr-fire-extinguisher-bracket

Agree, but what it does point out is that the aerodynamic design of the EFRs is not as superior as what it's made out to be purely from a power / flow point of view. They NEED bigger compressor wheels to match the design of the Precisions, which prove they are doing something right with their aerodynamic designs. Comparing a 6266 to a 8374 with very close comp/exhaust sizes, if say the 6266 had a Ti exhaust wheel I'd wager it would be at least comparable spool to the 8374 and still make more power. This is all completely theoretical of course, but the point is the EFR Ti exhaust wheel really makes them what they are.

Bit of a sweeping statement there. As far as spool per a given wheel sizes EFR is king - and they should be with their exceptionally light Ti exhaust wheels. So if response is absolutely paramount I'd 100% agree EFR. For power production per given comparable compressor wheel sizes, the Precision line up shits on them.

He seems to be wrong as he mentioned the clutch is a Spec SN26PT-2, which is a pull type clutch. It's also harder to convert a Getrag in a 34R to push having a concentric slave cylinder and no factory push gearbox front cover available. On a 34 Getrag you can't just go and buy the factory parts below and convert to a push setup easily like on the other RB 5 speeds that come with pull front covers. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/gearbox-conversion-kit-pull-to-push The only way I'm aware you cam change a Getrag to push is with the specific OS giken pull to push kit which still uses the 34 concentric slave cylinder.

Spot on - not to mention all the best clutches on the market are push type. The release bearing on a pull box is quite a shit thing isn't it 👎

I like, but no make any GTR versions. f**kers

Correct as above - I'm with these guys, stock spigot bush. I'd hate to have to pull a box just because a needle roller spigot decided to destroy itself. Needle roller is definitely a solution to problem that doesn't exist.

Yeah the pull setup is pretty robust, you never see that setup failing.

Fire your mechanic - Pull type clutch doesn't have a pivot ball. Nothing to upgrade or change if sticking with a pull type.

6870 definitely won't suck, but for a 100% street only car though it's a bit over the top. If drags and roll racing is on the cards it'd be heaps better. I bet that 7675 car is used for both right ?

Depends what you're doing with the car. Ultimate top end will be the 6870, so not really street usable. 6466 is still 600kw + on E85 which is more power than any sane person needs, and is really too much for the street to actually use too. I do 450kw on 22psi on 98 so you could do 500kw on 98 if pushed.

6466 is excellent 👌

Easiest way to do this - sell 32 GTR and buy R33 GTR with it in the right rear guard area. Good luck.

Check thread date, it's 2009. They are still available new or easily available used. 25731-89960

C'mon man, you're asking $126k on Skylines Australia - put some effort into the for sale post as you are going to get more questions about the car by not doing so. For a start details like location ?, Borg Warner what ?, actual motor specs not just it's a 2.8 and at least try to sound like you know what you're talking about - SELL the car. Maybe more than one bloody photo might help too